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New Whipple...A few issues

breeves002

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So I installed a whipple gen 2 on my 2016 GT last weekend. Stage 2 w/132mm tb, oversized heat exchanger, 3.625 pulley. They sent me LTR hoses for a HEMI but I got them to work and then they mailed me the correct hoses.

Anyways car runs fine on whipple tune. Sometimes it cuts out power, but I've been told that happens with their tune and even whipple says turn off the little safety features it has. I have a dyno tune appointment on the 11th so I'm not really worrying about their tune.

Fast forwards to today. CEL is on for cat codes. Expected. I also have a P1450 I need to figure out that was there before the whipple install. I noticed there were a ton of other codes. I find this weird because the car runs fine besides that occasional loss of power. Sometimes it won't boost past 3lbs then its fine the next time I drive it....

Here's the list of codes:
P0010
P0013
P0020
P0023
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P0443
P0446

also of course P0420/0430 and P1450

Several circuit codes for O2 sensors, camshaft actuators, and some evap stuff. I don't know why I'd suddenly get circuit codes. All wiring harnesses should still be plugged in and I didn't see any melted or cut wiring anywhere.

I cleared the codes and they came back the second I started the car (minus the cat codes and 1450).

Any ideas? I emailed whipple for a start.

Thanks
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96gt4.6

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Sounds like you need to check Fuse#40 in the fuse box under the hood. That fuse provides power to all of the components you have listed. May not be your issue, but a good place to start.

If it is blown, the next step is finding out why it blew. Did you delete the cats and have O2 plugs hanging where the rears used to be?
 
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breeves002

breeves002

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Yes that fuse was blown. I don't understand how there were no adversely noticeable effects of that. Car runs fine.

The o2 plugs were never hanging. They are still plugged in and sensors installed. This is head scratching.
 

96gt4.6

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And when you install a new fuse, it does not blow right away does it? If so the next step is finding the short. If not, even still you need to retrace everything you have touched during the install. Look for any pinched wires and make sure you can get eyes on every inch of wiring on the engine that had been disturbed, or could have the possibility of being pinched during the install. That fuse also powers the intake runner control system, which is now not used but used to be on the back of the motor/intake. Make sure those are not pinched/ect. I have yet to start my install....but I want to say Whipple has you do something with one or both of those plugs, possibly even use it for power or a trigger for the intercooler pump relay? Someone that has done the install will need to chime in on that.

Either way, the fuse blew for a reason, and if it happened after a major install like that, 99% of the time it's due to a pinched wire/ect.
 
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breeves002

breeves002

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I haven't tried yet. Just checked the fuse. I will go get some in an hour or two and give it a shot. If it blows right away its a short like you said.

For the Whipple tune you re-use one IMRC connector to tell the coolant pump to turn on. I am currently doing that. I wonder if it is not running. Didn't think to check that. However when I get my Dyno tune I need to wire it to an add-a-fuse to flip that relay on when the ignition turns on. Apparently only whipple can utilize the IMRC for the coolant pump. I should probably tape those connectors up and make sure they aren't melted or shorting. I looked at them and it all seemed fine. There are 4 connectors back there. 3 of which are currently unplugged.
 

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breeves002

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One thing I did think of... Yesterday I installed a UPR catch can and MGW shifter. The catch can is up in the front where the whipple relay for the IC pump is. I had moved it and the wiring around. Wondering if somehow that is causing the problem. I will investigate and get back later. Thanks for the quick response. I was going to dust off my 2016 Mustang wiring diagrams book to look for a fuse but you did it for me :)
 

96gt4.6

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No problem :). Thank you for the write up on the '18 up cluster install ;). Later this year, I would much appreciate the favor return of some help, should I find something the install guide does not cover. Fun fact, we both also have the same daily driver cars....Fusion Energi's! haha!!
 
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breeves002

breeves002

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We obviously are both brilliant.... mustang GT premiums with whipples and fusion energi's.

Happy to help on the cluster just let me know.
 

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I had Whipple tune on my 16 then switched to PD dyno tune and I did not have to change any wiring for the pump.
 

96gt4.6

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haha indeed sir! Additionally, if the car seems to be falling on it's face, it could be due to it picking up some knock retard if that intercooler pump truly isn't running....as the IAT would get very high, not to mention the cam position is locked with no power to the VCT actuators, and most likely the car is reverted to a fail safe type mode limiting power. Once you rectify the fuse and get the IC pump working properly if it is not, I'm sure most of your issues will go away. That unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum code is probably from a restricted vent assembly, IF it was there pre-Whipple.
 

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breeves002

breeves002

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Good to know. I'm getting a local dyno tune so my guess is they can't run the IC pump off the IMRC but we'll see. It really is easy to switch it to switched power though.

The car actually runs fine most of the time. I drove it with the blown fuse and it has full power. I've noticed every once in a while (before the fuse blew) that it would limit me to like 3psi boost sometimes then suddenly act normal. I did verify the IC pump was in fact running because at first I had it plugged into the wrong IMRC connector and it wasn't. I haven't checked since the fuse blew. Been busy at work but will look into it tonight.
 
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breeves002

breeves002

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So I replaced the fuse. Did not blow right away. Let it idle for 15 mins from a cold start and still good. IC pump running fine. Drove 25 mins home. Fuse still good... The tape came off of my second IMRC connector so maybe that shorted or the other 3 pin connector back there? I need to tape those up. I'll see if it blows again..
 

Bbarfoot14

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So I replaced the fuse. Did not blow right away. Let it idle for 15 mins from a cold start and still good. IC pump running fine. Drove 25 mins home. Fuse still good... The tape came off of my second IMRC connector so maybe that shorted or the other 3 pin connector back there? I need to tape those up. I'll see if it blows again..
Good deal brotha let her rip
 

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Sounds like you need to check Fuse#40 in the fuse box under the hood. That fuse provides power to all of the components you have listed. May not be your issue, but a good place to start.

If it is blown, the next step is finding out why it blew. Did you delete the cats and have O2 plugs hanging where the rears used to be?
Great post!
 

96gt4.6

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Glad I could help. Also, I told you wrong on that Evap code. I have seen a lot of issues with the purge valves leaking vacuum. That would be the valve that formally went on the front of the intake, top center-ish. Has one electrical connector and one big vacuum line. The pintle in them has an issue of not seating/sealing, which results in constant vacuum being sent to the fuel tank, and setting the unable to bleed up vacuum dtc. To test, do this. Unplug the electrical connector from the valve (I believe the whipple kit has you relocate the valve with a nice bracket), then undo the large vacuum line from the valves nipple. Start up the car, see if any vacuum Is present at the valve nipple. With nothing plugged into the valve there should be NO vacuum allowed through it. If there is, replace it. This test will set a DTC for the valve circuitry....just clear it once you are done testing. Took pics of mine during my Whipple install this evening I will post when I get to a PC.
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