2019 GT350 Engine Failure @ 2170 miles

[PRTK350]

I recently went through a buyback, took delivery of the new car on April 7th. I originally bought the car from a Georgia dealer but I reside in Florida. When they first approved my buyback Ford went with the the Florida lemon law after reading the lemon laws for both states I saw that Georgia protected the consumer better with the substitution of collateral than Florida. Now if I wanted to walk away from all this and get my money back then Florida was a better option. As they were refunding me 100% of the add-ons I had on the car including maintenance and monthly payments. Keep in my that you will have to pay for usage of the car if you decide to walk away from Ford but since you barely have any miles I don’t see you paying more than $1500 for usage and you getting everything you have done to the car back. If I was you start compiling all of your receipts.

being that you bought the car from California and now you reside in Tennessee you have both options. I did all this without using BBB or an attorney.

I read a lot of post from CobraJet which helped me under the whole process

Dang! Was it a GT350 too? I have a few questions:
1. Can you choose which state's lemon law to pursue the buyback with? I thought Ford chooses according to what is better for them. I actually purchased the car in Iowa and registered it in Tennessee. In my case, Iowa's is better for me (which is why I was assuming they'd go with Tennessee's LL)
2. They refund all the add ons? I have $6k worth of PPF and detailing on the car. I didn't know they'd be refunding that!
3. They refund payments too? I've made almost $10k of payments since I bought the car.
4. According to Tennessee's LL, I would be paying a little over $1k for usage.

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[Soulja4187]

Dang! Was it a GT350 too? I have a few questions:
1. Can you choose which state's lemon law to pursue the buyback with? I thought Ford chooses according to what is better for them. I actually purchased the car in Iowa and registered it in Tennessee. In my case, Iowa's is better for me (which is why I was assuming they'd go with Tennessee's LL)
2. They refund all the add ons? I have $6k worth of PPF and detailing on the car. I didn't know they'd be refunding that!
3. They refund payments too? I've made almost $10k of payments since I bought the car.
4. According to Tennessee's LL, I would be paying a little over $1k for usage.

No it wasn't a GT350.

1. Yes they will choose the state that it will less hit on them. Read up your lemon laws for both state and if they both have the same time frame down lemon law then ask them that you would like to switch the lemon law where you purchase the car.

2. Yes your add-ons, payments and anything you done to your car should be reimbursed back to you if you choose to walk away from ford.

3. Yes

This is an email they sent me I will post the florida and georgia differences

 

[Soulja4187]

Option One: Repurchase

You will be reimbursed for money you have put into the vehicle (depending on Florida lemon law). Then depending on FL lemon law we will need to deduct some items. These items can include: usage, negative equity, late fees, aftermarket contracts, items, or accessories. Anything remaining after the deductions will be written out in a check to you. Any payments made on the vehicle that are not included in the Repurchase figures will be refunded once the buyback is complete. You will remain responsible for any loan payments until the buyback is complete. If you choose to accept the Repurchase Option, a private offer will be provided to you which will allow for a discount on a new Ford vehicle (exclusions apply), if you choose to purchase another. With this option you qualify for rebates and public discounts that the dealership is offering at the time.

Florida: I would have to pay back $3500 for usage of the car but I would get back my payments, down payments, add-ons, maintenance and warranties.

Georgia: same as Florida.

Option Two: Replacement

You will pick out a new Ford vehicle. (It does not have to be the same model, however it does need to be a new vehicle). You will remain responsible for the current loan balance, usage, and upgrade charges. You do not qualify for rebates or discounts with this option.

Since your vehicle was purchased new, the upgrade cost would be the difference between the MSRP of your current vehicle and the new vehicle.

For this option you will need to refinance the remaining loan

Florida: I would have to pay back $3500 for usage of the car but I would get back my payments, down payments, add-ons, maintenance and warranties. You will also be responsible for paying any difference between MSRP to MSRP

Georgia: Will not pay any usage for the car and you wouldn't get any down payments, payments, maintenance, add-ons or warranty . If you fight hard enough you might be able to get get back warranty and add-ons

Option Three: Substitution of Collateral

This option is only available if your lender supports this type of transaction. You will keep your current loan and everything regarding your loan will remain the same. Same payments, same due date, same everything. You will pick out a new Ford that is the same model you currently have and we would basically be swapping VIN#’s on the loan. You will be responsible for any usage, upgrade charges, and other out-of-pocket amounts. These amounts will be paid at the time of surrender in certified funds. There is no payoff associated with a substitution. You do not qualify for rebates or discounts.

I went with this option as I didn't have to refinance anything and my only expense was the difference in MSRP which was $590

Florida: I would have to pay back $3500 for usage of the car but I would get back all of my payments, down payments, add-ons, maintenance and warranties. You will also be responsible for paying any difference between MSRP to MSRP

Georgia: Will not pay any usage for the car and you wouldn't get any payments, maintenance, add-ons or warranty . If you fight hard enough you might be able to get get back warranty and add-ons.

I remove all of the add on I had on the car except the tint and the transport I paid to get the car to Florida. I paid $1400 something and I got $1400 something.

If you are considering a new-finance replacement or substitution, I highly suggest finding the vehicle you want to get into, but DO NOT sign any documentation or paperwork with the dealership. Dealerships will often encourage you to do so, or try to contract you, but that is not consistent with a manufacturer buyback. Only one vehicle can be chosen to calculate replacement figures. Once you choose a substitution vehicle I’ll need the VIN and the name of the sales manager that you speak with at the dealership. We can assist with this process if this is the option you choose to go with

 

[Soulja4187]

Being that you want to get rid of the car I would suggest option 1. Just pay your usage and get every single dime you put on this car.

 

[BimmerDriver]

OP, sorry to read of your travails.

I have several suggestions based on what I've read here.

1) Never trust, believe or follow advice given on the Internet.
2) Laws vary between states. See #1
3) You can do a lot of research on your own (the links to TN statutes earlier in the thread are an excellent example) that don't require an expensive lawyer

I went through the lemon law thing with BMW many years ago. I read the NC statutes and was communicating with BMW by myself, no lawyer needed. There are lots of "gotchas" and things to watch out for. I was fortunate to have worked it out with them without going to court, and I suspect that most people do the same.

Best of luck.

 

[docday64]

I read thru this thread today hoping and thinking that it had a happy ending, but apparently the ending has not been reached yet. I was driving up to Tennessee yesterday afternoon and a white with blue stripes GT 350 passed me on I-65 and got off at the Ardmore exit. Thought it would have been pretty cool if was you. I picked up my Mach 1 last week from dealer in Nashville area. Hope things work out for you with your engine dilemma.

 

[PRTK350]

@Soulja4187 thank you so much for all the information. I really appreciate it!

 

[PRTK350]

Additionally, *if* I do take the car back, does anyone know if Ford USA warranties are valid in Canada? What about extended warranties?

If I go through the whole export/import process and register the car in Canada in a few years, will Canadian dealers accept US warranties?

 

[Soulja4187]

Additionally, *if* I do take the car back, does anyone know if Ford USA warranties are valid in Canada? What about extended warranties?

If I go through the whole export/import process and register the car in Canada in a few years, will Canadian dealers accept US warranties?

if you have Ford Protect then yes you can use it in the USA, Mexico or Canada. That’s what the Ford Protect brochure says

https://fordprotect.ford.com/plan/index/downloadbrochure/careplan/premiumcare//

 

[526 HRSE]

Your car didn't consume a drop of oil? That's weird.

 

[PRTK350]

Your car didn't consume a drop of oil? That's weird.

Not a drop! I can confirm. After hearing everyone’s accounts about oil consumption, I used to check the oil every other time I filled up, and sometimes just randomly every week.

Zero oil consumption. Before and after the first oil change at ~1k miles.

 

[PRTK350]

if you have Ford Protect then yes you can use it in the USA, Mexico or Canada. That’s what the Ford Protect brochure says

https://fordprotect.ford.com/plan/index/downloadbrochure/careplan/premiumcare//

That’s good to know, but what is Ford Protect? Is that the 5yr/60k powertrain warranty?

I was interested in only the powertrain part in case the engine blows again.

 

[Soulja4187]

That’s good to know, but what is Ford Protect? Is that the 5yr/60k powertrain warranty?

I was interested in only the powertrain part in case the engine blows again.

Is the warranty that you buy that covers you after your 36,000 or 3 year warranty expires. Below is a link that tells you what each plan covers.

https://fordprotect.ford.com/extended-service-plan

 

[PRTK350]

Hello Everyone!

After a lot of thinking and re-working my finances, I have decided to keep the car.

When I first bought the car, I bought it with the intention of keeping it for a long time. That's why I spent an absolute boatload of money on PPF and detailing. Yes, the engine eating a valve was an unfortunate thing to happen, but *if* the repair job was done properly, I should be able to drive the heck out of the car and enjoy it to it's fullest. My dad breathed some sense into me: If I did go for a buyback, the process could have been long and frustrating, and there isn't any other car in this price range that drives like a 350. The 500 is way out of my budget (I had to stretch to buy the 350 at 10% off MSRP, lol).

That being said, I have been trying to contact my CSR for almost 2 weeks now to discuss this, and she's been unresponsive to calls, voicemails or email. That's why I finally requested an escalation late last week and a supervisor called me today morning. He said that they can reimburse me for 2 months of my car payment and give me an extended warranty. He said that he'd ask my CSR to get back to me about this and come to a resolution.

In the meantime, he asked me to go ahead and pick up the car and start driving it. He said that the extended warranty will take a couple of weeks to kick in, and I could pick up my car in the meantime. In case I was not satisfied with their warranty offer, I could pursue a buyback even after picking up the car.

@pilotgore @stanglife @Soulja4187 @Cobra Jet @mroad @Blwnsmoke @RPDBlueMoon or anybody who wants to chime in:

1. Do you think I should pick up the car before the warranty and other details are figured out? The car is sitting out in the lot and I'd like to bring it home, but I don't want to be stupid and lose my leverage over them.

2. Can I really pursue a buyback after picking the car up, in case I am not satisfied with what warranty and compensation they're offering me?

3. As I haven't been following the repair process (because I was so set on a buyback until very recently), I am not sure how the work was performed. I don't even know which tech worked on the car. Do you think there is any way to find out if they did the engine swap properly?

The service advisor told me that they also had to change the Catalytic Converters because they were filled with coolant. Seems like a pretty big job...

Again as always - thank you so much for all your responses, guidance and help. I appreciate it more than you know

 

[Blwnsmoke]

Hello Everyone!

After a lot of thinking and re-working my finances, I have decided to keep the car.

When I first bought the car, I bought it with the intention of keeping it for a long time. That's why I spent an absolute boatload of money on PPF and detailing. Yes, the engine eating a valve was an unfortunate thing to happen, but *if* the repair job was done properly, I should be able to drive the heck out of the car and enjoy it to it's fullest. My dad breathed some sense into me: If I did go for a buyback, the process could have been long and frustrating, and there isn't any other car in this price range that drives like a 350. The 500 is way out of my budget (I had to stretch to buy the 350 at 10% off MSRP, lol).

That being said, I have been trying to contact my CSR for almost 2 weeks now to discuss this, and she's been unresponsive to calls, voicemails or email. That's why I finally requested an escalation late last week and a supervisor called me today morning. He said that they can reimburse me for 2 months of my car payment and give me an extended warranty. He said that he'd ask my CSR to get back to me about this and come to a resolution.

In the meantime, he asked me to go ahead and pick up the car and start driving it. He said that the extended warranty will take a couple of weeks to kick in, and I could pick up my car in the meantime. In case I was not satisfied with their warranty offer, I could pursue a buyback even after picking up the car.

@pilotgore @stanglife @Soulja4187 @Cobra Jet @mroad @Blwnsmoke or anybody who wants to chime in:

1. Do you think I should pick up the car before the warranty and other details are figured out? The car is sitting out in the lot and I'd like to bring it home, but I don't want to be stupid and lose my leverage over them.

2. Can I really pursue a buyback after picking the car up, in case I am not satisfied with what warranty and compensation they're offering me?

3. As I haven't been following the repair process (because I was so set on a buyback until very recently), I am not sure how the work was performed. I don't even know which tech worked on the car. Do you think there is any way to find out if they did the engine swap properly?

The service advisor told me that they also had to change the Catalytic Converters because they were filled with coolant. Seems like a pretty big job...

Again as always - thank you so much for all your responses, guidance and help. I appreciate it more than you know

Mixed feelings on this. At first from reading this, I wouldn't pick up the car without at least the warranty in writing in an email.

I had a maintenance plan given to me for free for 45,000 miles due to issues with my last warranty repair on my F350. It did take over a week for it to show in the system so that's factual.

But after thinking about it, if you are keeping the car, any ESP is a bonus. I believe they will offer you either a 75k or 100k ESP.

However, since you have met your lemon law requirements for time out of service, ANY further warranty repair under your lemon law will qualify it for a lemon again since that just adds more to the time out. Even something as silly as a faulty window switch.

So if I were you, I'd call back, ask the rep (any rep if they see any notation about an ESP offer). If they confirm it is documented, I'd pick up the car and follow up in a couple days if they havent called you back.

You still have plenty of leverage with another repair still qualifying as a lemon.

Lastly, it was a full engine swap, not a rebuild so I personally wouldn't have as much worry about it being done "right". I'd be comfortable with the swap compare to a tear down and rebuild.

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