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2018 GT PP2 Rear Differential Overheating Issue

boardkat

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can also confirm, there is a thermostatic sensor/control in the FTBR kit - still working great for me after 3 seasons of use - had concerns about sensor failure, but no problems for me (yet)

fwiw, it's a knob you turn with a small screwdriver - i have mine set to turn on at 190 (i run VERY thick 80W250 fluid), and never see temps over 200ish, regardless of aggression/session time. that said, i did have it disconnected from offseason work at one point, and forgot to plug it back in. saw diff temps approaching 260 pretty quickly, early in a session. so it's definitely doing it's job when on!!
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1 old racer

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Just got to say this. For those who are do it your selfers. Check out the DIY section for how o but my diff cooler for half the price
 

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Just got to say this. For those who are do it your selfers. Check out the DIY section for how o but my diff cooler for half the price
Definitely. I was a lot less handy (and didn’t have the right tools) when I bought the kit. Would definitely DIY if I had to do it again, which is what I did for my oil/tranny cooling setups.

BTW, be sure to space the setup away from the sheet metal. Had to made some spacers for mine, since the installation had very little clearance. Otherwise, you’ll kill the fan pretty quickly.
 

shogun32

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BTW, be sure to space the setup away from the sheet metal. Had to made some spacers for mine, since the installation had very little clearance.
mcMaster and your local *quality* hardware store has nylon, aluminum or rubber standoffs.
 

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Thanks, I have between 1.75 and 2" of space between the cooler and sheetmetal.
 

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Porsche Dude

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Definitely. I was a lot less handy (and didn’t have the right tools) when I bought the kit. Would definitely DIY if I had to do it again, which is what I did for my oil/tranny cooling setups.

BTW, be sure to space the setup away from the sheet metal. Had to made some spacers for mine, since the installation had very little clearance. Otherwise, you’ll kill the fan pretty quickly.
What would be the solution to have a transmission cooler? Is it forced air from underneath or is there a fluid cooling option available? Thanks.
 

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mcMaster and your local *quality* hardware store has nylon, aluminum or rubber standoffs.
yep. wasn't happy with how loud the pump was when i was driving it on the street either, so i picked up some thick rubber spacers from fastenal that i cut to desired size.

Thanks, I have between 1.75 and 2" of space between the cooler and sheetmetal.
perfect, your trunk floor (and anything you put in there) is probably much happier with lower ambient temps :)

What would be the solution to have a transmission cooler? Is it forced air from underneath or is there a fluid cooling option available? Thanks.
i plumbed in a setrab 610 unit (along with a 650 for oil cooling) in front of a 3" radiator (and behind a 3" heat exchanger) w/ the same tilton pump:

IMG_3699.JPG


wasn't sure it would get sufficient airflow, but made sure to fence/duct everything in, and still haven't seen temps above 200 (and IAT/CHTs are great too). others have done a diff-like solution (fan/cooler under the passenger side), or place the radiator where the fog light is - but i didn't like the low pressure air flow there (and the lack of protection from a debris/wall hit).

side note for the tilton pump: the one in the FTBR kit is for intermittent use (1-2 hours, w/ 15 min cool down). be sure you set the thermostat high enough to not activate on the street, otherwise you'll burn the pump out fast. there is a continuous use version for up to 1000 hours (40-527), but doesn't have viton seals.
 
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shogun32

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What would be the solution to have a transmission cooler?
the MT82 doesn't have an integral pump unlike the Tremec (GT350/Mach1) so you'd have to machine a pick up point in the trans case and plumb in an bexternally powered pump.
 

1958cyclist

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On another note Harrop makes a neat engine oil cooler which mounts up under the front splitter between the frame. It comes with a neat adapter that replaces the stock mini-fluid cooler:



You can purchase from Harrop of Ohio.
 
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boardkat

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let me know how long your 3rd gear lasts when driven hard on the track if you don't cool the MT-82.....

fwiw, i've been running gforce (calimer-spec) forged and rem-coated internals in an MT-82 case w/ external cooling (fill/drain plug-plumbed) for 3 (hard) seasons. still going strong, unlike a lot of other failed components in my driveline.

i truly believe i have given my MT-82 setup the best chance to survive, and fully expected it to blow up by now, especially at current (1000hp) power levels. at this point, i can't agree with statements that discourage cooling, since i've seen the benefit with my own eyes.

On another note Harrop makes a neat engine oil cooler which mounts up under the front splitter between the frame. It comes with a neat adapter that replaces the stock mini-fluid cooler:



You can purchase from Harrop of Ohio.
this looks a lot like the cooltech setup from the boss 302 era:
https://www.cooltechllc.com/mustang-gtgt350r/25-2011-302-oil-cooler-no-thermostat.html

... which uses a setrab 172 unit. useful for HPDE, but nowhere near enough cooling ability when driven hard in races or by 10/10ths drivers. you need a 650/660/948/960 in those cases.
 
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1958cyclist

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let me know how long your 3rd gear lasts when driven hard on the track if you don't cool the MT-82.....

fwiw, i've been running gforce (calimer-spec) forged and rem-coated internals in an MT-82 case w/ external cooling (fill/drain plug-plumbed) for 3 (hard) seasons. still going strong, unlike a lot of other failed components in my driveline.

i truly believe i have given my MT-82 setup the best chance to survive, and fully expected it to blow up by now, especially at current (1000hp) power levels. at this point, i can't agree with statements that discourage cooling, since i've seen the benefit with my own eyes.


this looks a lot like the cooltech setup from the boss 302 era:
https://www.cooltechllc.com/mustang-gtgt350r/25-2011-302-oil-cooler-no-thermostat.html

... which uses a setrab 172 unit. useful for HPDE, but nowhere near enough cooling ability when driven hard in races or by 10/10ths drivers. you need a 650/660/948/960 in those cases.
I think cooling the MT82 is a wonderful idea, and clearly you've had much success with what you've outlined as a solution. I just posted the interview as some caution had been raised.
 

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I think cooling the MT82 is a wonderful idea, and clearly you've had much success with what you've outlined as a solution. I just posted the interview as some cautioned had been raised.
for sure, i don't doubt that getrag/ford found issues with a stock MT-82 being externally cooled during development (and there's no doubt an internal solution is superior) - but i also think the metallurgy of the internals play a bigger role than lubrication/oil starvation causing hot spots from an externally plumbed inlet using the fill plug (which, iirc, was the issue raised). apologies if i sounded dismissive, was just attempting to provide additional real-world experience from failures i (and others) have experienced and the benefits of cooling :)
 

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On another note Harrop makes a neat engine oil cooler which mounts up under the front splitter between the frame. It comes with a neat adapter that replaces the stock mini-fluid cooler:



You can purchase from Harrop of Ohio.
Why is the Harrop kit over $550 more expensive than the Mishimoto kit?
 

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On another note Harrop makes a neat engine oil cooler which mounts up under the front splitter between the frame. It comes with a neat adapter that replaces the stock mini-fluid cooler:

You can purchase from Harrop of Ohio.
I'm putting a group-buy together.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/harrop-oil-cooler-group-buy-99-akit14319.163179/
Why is the Harrop kit over $550 more expensive than the Mishimoto kit?
It's not. It's $765USD or less.
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