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2018 Active Exhaust Install Guide

MrBD1348

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I just installed a new exhaust with new electronics. So I have OE active mufflers and a set of actuators available if someone is looking to buy. I can send pics tomorrow - too tired to go back in the garage right now
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stickshiftharry

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Help Needed! 2018 GT 300A with fuse and relay present.
Followed Ehazels instructions and tapped the wires for the active exhaust.

Plugged in everything and did the changes via forscan. First startup the actuators moved and reverted to their original position and i get a "Exhaust mode not available' on the dash. Fuse is good and i swapped it incase.

The actuators are getting power (verified from a multimeter). Want to make sure everything works prior to installing the mufflers.

Not sure if this changes anything but car is boosted and tuned already. Might redo the connections in the driver's footwell. Any tips or pointers are appreciated.
 

Mach VII

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Help Needed! 2018 GT 300A with fuse and relay present.
Followed Ehazels instructions and tapped the wires for the active exhaust.

Plugged in everything and did the changes via forscan. First startup the actuators moved and reverted to their original position and i get a "Exhaust mode not available' on the dash. Fuse is good and i swapped it incase.

The actuators are getting power (verified from a multimeter). Want to make sure everything works prior to installing the mufflers.

Not sure if this changes anything but car is boosted and tuned already. Might redo the connections in the driver's footwell. Any tips or pointers are appreciated.
As a guess it might be that AE was available for GT's in 2018 but not until 2019 for EcoBoost....
 

Mach VII

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Synergy720

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Help Needed! 2018 GT 300A with fuse and relay present.
Followed Ehazels instructions and tapped the wires for the active exhaust.

Plugged in everything and did the changes via forscan. First startup the actuators moved and reverted to their original position and i get a "Exhaust mode not available' on the dash. Fuse is good and i swapped it incase.

The actuators are getting power (verified from a multimeter). Want to make sure everything works prior to installing the mufflers.

Not sure if this changes anything but car is boosted and tuned already. Might redo the connections in the driver's footwell. Any tips or pointers are appreciated.
Check the springs where it sits in the valve. They have to be positioned a certain way. Both actuators have to look the same.
IMG_1903.webp
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stickshiftharry

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Help Needed! 2018 GT 300A with fuse and relay present.
Followed Ehazels instructions and tapped the wires for the active exhaust.

Plugged in everything and did the changes via forscan. First startup the actuators moved and reverted to their original position and i get a "Exhaust mode not available' on the dash. Fuse is good and i swapped it incase.

The actuators are getting power (verified from a multimeter). Want to make sure everything works prior to installing the mufflers.

Not sure if this changes anything but car is boosted and tuned already. Might redo the connections in the driver's footwell. Any tips or pointers are appreciated.
incase anyone else comes across the same issue:
All i had to do was plug the actuators in the mufflers themselves and the issue was gone. I believe the actuators need to be under a certain tension to operate correctly, so a simple solution. Active working great and is a blessing to have.
Thanks everyone and especially ehazel
 

m1m1m1

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I purchased some cheap ass actuators from AliExpress, but they did come with the wrong springs. (They are meant to fit BMW.) Does anyone have experience with DIY springs?
 

ccs46

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Sorry to revive a dead thread, but has anyone figured out the best way to get this done for 2019s? My GT has the relay and the connector at the back, so in theory it should be plug and play once the PCM thing is sorted out. What's the best way to go about that?
 

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jmeiers

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Sorry to revive a dead thread, but has anyone figured out the best way to get this done for 2019s? My GT has the relay and the connector at the back, so in theory it should be plug and play once the PCM thing is sorted out. What's the best way to go about that?
Search within this exact thread. Pretty sure I posted part numbers and everything I did to make this work on my own 2019. It was plug-n-play.
 

Mach VII

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Sorry to revive a dead thread, but has anyone figured out the best way to get this done for 2019s? My GT has the relay and the connector at the back, so in theory it should be plug and play once the PCM thing is sorted out. What's the best way to go about that?
Collect harnesses, mufflers, actuators then install. Use FORSCAN to activate AE settings then contact a tuner, or, like me you could buy your own HP tuners device and activate function in the PCM yourself... all info is posted in this thread.
 

ccs46

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Collect harnesses, mufflers, actuators then install. Use FORSCAN to activate AE settings then contact a tuner, or, like me you could buy your own HP tuners device and activate function in the PCM yourself... all info is posted in this thread.
Sorry this is what I was trying to confirm. If I can just get the device from HP Tuners and turn it on, while leaving the car stock that is awesome.
 

WD Pro

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I have encountered another issue with my install. To verify everything was working properly I just took the actuators off the muffler and plugged them into the wiring on the car. Everything worked like it should so I shut the car off thinking everything was good. Finally had a chance to get the car to a muffler shop to have the mufflers installed so I thought I would go ahead and reinstall the actuators before going. I'm not sure what happened but it appears the spring did not go back to the same orientation after testing that it was when I removed it from the muffler so I am unable to reinstall the actuators on the mufflers. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
Old thread / post, but here is the fix for anyone reading in future :

Unlike the aftermarket active exhausts, the GT AE seems to hold the valves under tension, so once they are released it's tricky to get them lined up with the spring again (maybe this is Fords method to combat valve noise ?).

There is a procedure to reseat the springs :

IMG_7283.jpg


But for my own reasons this just wasn't practical - I need the exhaust to be perfect when it goes back on, without having to drop it a little and re-secure the actuators after the seating / reset process.

So after unsuccessfully messing around with the spring pre mounted on the actuator, here's the only way I found I could do it :

1) Start by recording how your actuators and springs were when they were first removed - the GT's aren't handed :

1665262668917.jpeg


2) Once everything has been stripped and cleaned and your ready for reassembly, make sure the actuator slides on and off it's mounting studs very easily. Re align the studs if needed. Use two M6 nuts and a deep socket to provide leverage without damaging the threads :

1665262810137.jpeg


3) Ensure the valve is fully turned in the direction to line up with the actuator - in the case of the GT they were fully open :

1665262887563.jpeg


4) Make sure the exhaust is level, and then carefully position the spring on the top of the valve :

1665262935359.jpeg


5) Without disturbing the spring, carefully lower the actuator so it just rests on the spring :

1665263072456.jpeg


6) Note I am working with the cut out of the actuator housing towards me, that's so I can peep under and see the actuator shaft and spring is 'almost' aligned. From 6 o clock :

1665263180020.jpeg


And from four o clock :

1665263205606.jpeg


7) If all looks OK, push the actuator down and wiggle / twist it a little it on its studs whilst maintaining downwards pressure. If you hear a fairly loud snap, then the spring has most likely seated in the actuator shaft.

1665263513875.jpeg


8) Don't trust it the first time, open it back up and check its correct. Do it a few times to get a feel what it's like when it correctly seats.

The first indication that it has seated correctly, will be that the actuator goes tight on its studs as it's now fighting the spring a little - there will be some resistance to lift it of it's studs.

The second indication is that the spring is fully located in the actuator shaft when you lift it off :

1665263496084.jpeg


9) Once you are confident you can do it right every time, bolt it down to stay (I know I have missed the little bracket from the inboard nut, it's paint is hardening) :

1665263618263.jpeg


10) As a final check, fist your exhaust deep enough to twiddle the flap. In the case of the GT it's fully open, rock solid one way (it's up against it's stops), but it can be moved with firm spring resistance the other way - instantly returning to it's home position when you remove pressure on the butterfly.

Just as a heads up and I know I'm not alone with this, the inserts around the bolt holes in the plastic actuator body (to stop it getting overtightened) seem to corrode excessively and very easily (maybe a reaction to all the stainless in that area ?). I covered the bottom bit of the stud, the insert and all mating faces with high temp grease before tightening everything down.

Hope that helps :like:

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WD :like:
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