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Help about 5w-20, 5w-30, 5w-40 and 5w-50 oil

robvas

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The oil change didn't fix the GMC 6.2's
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robvas

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Lake speed also did a video on how bad 5W20 was in the 3.0 duramax

 

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The oil change didn't fix the GMC 6.2's
Yes, there are a few different issues with those engines. I loved the sound and power production in the Camaro. IMO the 6.2 is a better engine for street driving than the 5.0, but the collapsing lifters and main bearing issues are long term concerns. Oh, and direct injection I don't love either.
 

robvas

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Yes, there are a few different issues with those engines. I loved the sound and power production in the Camaro. IMO the 6.2 is a better engine for street driving than the 5.0, but the collapsing lifters and main bearing issues are long term concerns. Oh, and direct injection I don't love either.
They fucked up for sure.

I got rid of my 6.2 Sierra (earlier one) because it had the trash 8 speed with it. Ugh. Loved that engine though.
 

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MRASPHALTO1

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I just changed the oil. I ended up using Liqui Moly Molygen 5W-40 (they didn't have 0W-40), and honestly, I can already hear the typical Mustang engine tic noise (something that was impossible before). Now I just need the car to cool down to compare the sounds and see if it really does sound better or not.

Unfortunately, after leaving the place where I got the oil changed, I realized that instead of putting in 10 quarts of oil, they put in 10.5 quarts. Do you know if those extra 5 quarts will cause problems with the engine, or if it won't affect it at all?
 
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MRASPHALTO1

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Unfortunately, the noise persists (start the engine cold and let the temperature gauge rise almost halfway).

video:

I think the only option will be to take it to a mechanic for a checkup, but I'll do that later.
 

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sk47

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I don’t know but the oil is into the limit 🤔 well we are talk about 0,5 extra oil sooooo that’s no even a big problem.
Hello; Too much oil can be serious. If the oil in the oil pan is high enough so that the crankshaft touches as it spins that causes the oil to froth = get air mixed into it. Oil with air in it affects how oil functions in potentially bad ways.
Let the car sit for some time on a level spot. Overnight is the way I do such, but half an hour someplace ought to do. Then check.
If the oil level is much above the fill mark, then consider siphoning some out.
 

sk47

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Unfortunately, the noise persists (start the engine cold and let the temperature gauge rise almost halfway).

video:

I think the only option will be to take it to a mechanic for a checkup, but I'll do that later.
Hello; Unfortunately, that more recent noise recording sounds bad. I suggest looking up piston slap and also rod knock.
I have already written about piston slap. Brief summary= loudest when cold then gets quieter as the engine warms up. Often to very quiet.

Rod knock is very serious. Means a bearing is worn so far out of spec that the oil film cannot maintain a sufficient film between moving parts. I spun a bearing on a crankshaft once and ruined the bearing. Made a loud knock. If I recall correctly the knock was not the same all the time. When driving and pressing on the gas pedal the knock was less. Soon as i lifted off the gas the knock was louder. Had to rebuild the engine.

I think you mentioned this is a recent purchase. If so was it an "as-is" sale or did you happen to get some sort of warranty? A good dealer might work out something but perhaps a slim hope.
 
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MRASPHALTO1

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Hello; Unfortunately, that more recent noise recording sounds bad. I suggest looking up piston slap and also rod knock.
I have already written about piston slap. Brief summary= loudest when cold then gets quieter as the engine warms up. Often to very quiet.

Rod knock is very serious. Means a bearing is worn so far out of spec that the oil film cannot maintain a sufficient film between moving parts. I spun a bearing on a crankshaft once and ruined the bearing. Made a loud knock. If I recall correctly the knock was not the same all the time. When driving and pressing on the gas pedal the knock was less. Soon as i lifted off the gas the knock was louder. Had to rebuild the engine.

I think you mentioned this is a recent purchase. If so was it an "as-is" sale or did you happen to get some sort of warranty? A good dealer might work out something but perhaps a slim hope.
I bought it at an auction, but unfortunately, I imported it from the United States to the Dominican Republic in April.

After making a few minor repairs, I'll have to take it to a mechanic. The noise does tend to disappear when you accelerate, but it comes back when it relanti.
 

sk47

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I bought it at an auction, but unfortunately, I imported it from the United States to the Dominican Republic in April.

After making a few minor repairs, I'll have to take it to a mechanic. The noise does tend to disappear when you accelerate, but it comes back when it relanti.
Hello; I looked at your member profile and assume it is a 2020 GT. I am sure someone will correct me if i get this wrong. I think the Gen III Coyote has the spray plasma cylinder linings. This makes a rebuild depend on the condition of that lining.
"the noise does tend to disappear when you accelerate, but it comes back when it relanti." - this to me indicates a spun bearing or perhaps just worn too much. Quiter when on the gas then louder when you let off the gas.

To be clear my online guess is far from sure. Lots of moving parts which can make noise. That you will be taking it to a shop is a wise move.
A question= Did the engine make the noise first thing when you first got it or did the noise start some miles after you started driving it???

I have some questions which are not important at this time. Reply or not -your choice.
Can you do mechanical work yourself?
Do you have a place + tools to do such work?
Did you budget for a very expensive job such as a replacement engine?
Can you get parts?
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