VCT/VVT Solenoid Replacement

[funks_5.0]

I know there are probably other threads on this same topic, but I am having a very hard time finding the answers and I am not exactly sure where to look. I am somewhat mechanically inclined but have never dug into actually engine work, so I am trying to get this all straightened out before getting into the actual work.

I have a 2019 Mustang GT that is having a rpm stumble down low similar to the known VCT issue. Confirmed on logs that the intake on bank 1 was decently out of phase. I have already went through the basic trouble shooting (maf, intake, spark plugs, etc.) and I would just like to replace the VCT/VVT solenoid's on both sides and be done with it (hopefully).

It looks in 2018 they changed to the different vvt solenoids, 2 different types on each bank, see below. The part numbers I am seeing is BR3Z6M280F for the larger solenoids and HL3Z6M280A for the smaller solenoids. Is this correct?

Any tips on replacing these? I assume the only other items i need to complete this is the valve cover gaskets? I also plan on replacing the injectors to LU47's and throwing in new spark plugs while at it. Is there anything else worth upgrading/replacing while already working to replace the VCT/VVT?

I appreciate the help in advance, I would rather try and sort through this repair myself instead of taking it somewhere else, have to learn somehow!

Sponsored

 

[GTP]

Subbed and I'm rooting for you!

 

[giigan]

I’m getting ready to do the same replacement on my car for the same reason.
I am thinking about going to get it diagnosed at a dealer first, they’ll be able to tell me with a scanner if the timing is all over the place and tell me for sure which parts to get.
I did find a thread on reddit that indicated the BR part number is the intake solenoids and the HL part number is the exhaust, but I haven’t been able to verify that info yet.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Mustang/s/OczyFpIgwP

 

[engineermike]

I’ve re-used valve cover gaskets many times and no issues. You do have to pull the gdi pump to get the ps off though. Also a tip: pull the battery and battery box wall out. Access is 10x easier.

As for injectors, why not just bump up to 52’s? You will need a tune for them though.

 

[ice445]

I’ve re-used valve cover gaskets many times and no issues. You do have to pull the gdi pump to get the ps off though. Also a tip: pull the battery and battery box wall out. Access is 10x easier.

As for injectors, why not just bump up to 52’s? You will need a tune for them though.

Someone else on here said you can work around the gdi pump but it's probably more work than just removing it. I think the service manual wants you to replace the hard lines and bolts though

 

[raptor17GT]

Having been through the same pain re vct and cam timing being screwed, bank 2 though one bit of advice I'd give is check your chain tensioners. My engine had the entire timing set replaced as we couldn't diagnose the p0024 to a fix new vct didn't fix it. On strip down, secondary chain tensioner was compressible by hand, nothing else was found out of spec but replacing everything vct / phasers, all chains and tensioners did resolve the issue. A secondary chain tensioner would have been far cheaper and quicker to replace had we seen that first. Live an learn eh

 

[engineermike]

Someone else on here said you can work around the gdi pump but it's probably more work than just removing it. I think the service manual wants you to replace the hard lines and bolts though

I have my doubts about this. Either way, you definitely have to pull the fuel lines and electrical connector so even if you could somehow force the cover off with the GDI pump still installed, I doubt its worth the headache. Once the lines are off it's just a couple more bolts and the pump comes out.

 

[engineermike]

Having been through the same pain re vct and cam timing being screwed, bank 2 though one bit of advice I'd give is check your chain tensioners. My engine had the entire timing set replaced as we couldn't diagnose the p0024 to a fix new vct didn't fix it. On strip down, secondary chain tensioner was compressible by hand, nothing else was found out of spec but replacing everything vct / phasers, all chains and tensioners did resolve the issue. A secondary chain tensioner would have been far cheaper and quicker to replace had we seen that first. Live an learn eh

I really don't think that secondary tensioner was your problem. The stock tensioners compress very easily by hand when no oil pressure is present. Also, depending on where the cams are positioned, it could seem like it's harder to compress but it's just already compressed due to chain tension.

 

[raptor17GT]

I really don't think that secondary tensioner was your problem. The stock tensioners compress very easily by hand when no oil pressure is present. Also, depending on where the cams are positioned, it could seem like it's harder to compress but it's just already compressed due to chain tension.

oh the chain wasn't holding it down at all as the chain / tensioner could all be pushed downwards. Entirely possible that wasn't the fault but with everything changed and nothing else 'different' we have no proof either way. The mechanic did say that some engines 'park' a cam in a safe position if the ECU cannot control the timing relative to the desired position, then pop up the timing code. Its sorted now, cost a fair bit but hey ho done now.
We did use new seals all round but then had to redo the work as the timing was out so in effect re-used the (new) seals lol. MY17 so no GDI pump

 

[Dana Pants]

Buy and follow the factory service pdf. This is a lot of steps. I would add: take off the studs for the hpfp. It makes taking off the passenger side valve cover easier.

 

[engineermike]

oh the chain wasn't holding it down at all as the chain / tensioner could all be pushed downwards. Entirely possible that wasn't the fault but with everything changed and nothing else 'different' we have no proof either way. The mechanic did say that some engines 'park' a cam in a safe position if the ECU cannot control the timing relative to the desired position, then pop up the timing code.

I guess what I meant is that they tensioners being "easy to compress" by hand isn't an indicator that they are bad. I have an engine on the stand here with brand new tensioners and you can compress the tensioners easily by hand. Until they get oil pressure, all they have is a small spring holding them up.

It is true that the PCM will send the cams to park position if it senses a problem, sometimes setting a code but not always.

 

[giigan]

I’m getting ready to do the same replacement on my car for the same reason.
I am thinking about going to get it diagnosed at a dealer first, they’ll be able to tell me with a scanner if the timing is all over the place and tell me for sure which parts to get.
I did find a thread on reddit that indicated the BR part number is the intake solenoids and the HL part number is the exhaust, but I haven’t been able to verify that info yet.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Mustang/s/OczyFpIgwP

I confirmed just now with two different dealer part desks in my area that my 19 GT would need 2x of the BR3Z6M280f and 2x of the hl3z6m280a.

 

[giigan]

Tip #1 remove the oil dipstick tube or it will snap off when removing the drivers side valve cover

 

[raptor17GT]

Tip #1 remove the oil dipstick tube or it will snap off when removing the drivers side valve cover

Can confirm mine got snapped causing a 2wk delay waiting on replacement. For the price in the US I'd be ordering a new one before starting the work.

 

[Dana Pants]

Tip #1 remove the oil dipstick tube or it will snap off when removing the drivers side valve cover

One of billions of annoying little steps clearly described in the factory service manual.

Sponsored