2018 GT PP2 Rear Differential Overheating Issue

[Bossdog]

Why do you want this kit without cover? They provide email for contact.

do I need a new cover? Why would I want to pay for a new covet if I don’t need one. Plus, I don’t want to have to remove my Diff to install the new cover if I don’t have to.

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[shogun32]

I don’t feel comfortable sourcing my own parts, I don’t have that kind of experience. Glad to pay for someone else’s expertise.

then order a kit from Steeda - if they'll agree to do so. I've posted the BoM at least once here and it includes adapters to use the existing fill+drain holes.

 

[GTP]

Hi @Bossdog. I've done some research on kit offerings, and DIY solutions. However the only thing I've done so far is wrapping the exhaust, switching over to 75W140 gear oil, and putting max temp sticker on the rear cover. My temp so far has never exceeded 260F with this setup. So you can do this for about $50 and see how far that takes you.

As for installing an active cooler yourself, I understand your desire of having good instructions, phone support, etc. I'd say in order of increasing difficulty, the options are:
FTBR kit
MMR kit
DIY, sourcing all the parts and figuring things out

Last option can be done for about $400.

As for the cover, I've heard it has to be removed and an extra port for return oil drilled and tapped into it. MMR confirmed by phone that you can actually skip that port, and just use the fill port for oil return. That means you wouldn't have to wrestle the cover off. At the time, they told me that the kit price would be less. That would probably be my choice, personally, because everything else is ready to install.

My recommendation is to do the exhaust wrap and 140-weight oil, and then change the oil every 6-10 track days. If your temp ever rises to 280F, then consider adding an active cooler.

 

[GTP]

I think another good reason to have the third port on the cover is for when it comes time for filling the system, or changing out the oil. Things could get messy and guess-y otherwise.

One other idea I had was to install a wide, narrow cooler to the body behind the roll bar, and then run lines to it. I would try this idea without a fan and without a pump. It seems that the oil could flow on its own due to temp difference, and that simply having a finned cooler exposed to the air would provide much more cooling. I expect the temp would certainly be below 260F. But if it was not much lower I would next install a pump, thermostat, relay, etc.

 

[tosha]

do I need a new cover? Why would I want to pay for a new covet if I don’t need one. Plus, I don’t want to have to remove my Diff to install the new cover if I don’t have to.

Just looking at the cover, they have added 2 extra ports for oil lines, which means few things:
1) you don't need to disassemble the cooler lines every time you want to change the diff oil or inspect it. Less touchy touchy on those lines likely means longer life for the fittings.
2) your return line is below the oil level, not above. I don't know if ot makes any difference, but I personally like it more.

Can you live without this? I guess so. You can email them or sell the cover on ebay.

 

[mustang5o]

Hi @Bossdog.
My recommendation is to do the exhaust wrap and 140-weight oil, and then change the oil every 6-10 track days. If your temp ever rises to 280F, then consider adding an active cooler.

I tracked my 19 PP2 regularly and the heat wrap and heavier fluid worked pretty good for me as well. Only a couple of times did I even get to the warning stage. I changed the fluid once a season but I would recommend more to be sure. I've heard good things about FTBR, MMR and Kenny Brown kits when I was researching. Then I decided to upgrade to a Mach1 so I got (getting, not delivered yet) a very expensive diff cooler . But hey it comes with a better transmission (also with cooling), slightly more power and better engine cooling, a track day at Ford Performance racing school, a fancy digital gauge cluster and a classic mustang name.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I moved my FTBR kit from one car to another, but left the modified housing on the original car.

Also FTBR is 100% the fix for an overheating diff at the track

I figured I'd roll the dice since I had the kit, but I didn't feel like pulling the diff out again to swap the cover
- I ported the FTBR kit to the fill hole.
- I omitted the FTBR temp sensor. I have a manual switch to a key on circuit
- Mine's a base GT with no diff temp so I drilled out the blind hole in the diff for the oem temp sensor, let some gear oil drain to flush it, and installed a Glowshift gauge on the dash.

Knowing what I know now, I'd just DIY a kit

but so far so good with my setup

 

[Flyhalf]

The extra cover comes already with AN FITTING. Also u need the extra hole so you don't have to remove a AN FITTING every time u need the oil change.

For the guys with heavier oil.
Why did u put heavier oil?

 

[GTP]

...

For the guys with heavier oil.
Why did u put heavier oil?

Simply because of the higher operating temperature. Street temp ~100F, track temp ~260F.

Also, maybe it's because we're too cheap to buy the proper active cooler, haha.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

The extra cover comes already with AN FITTING. Also u need the extra hole so you don't have to remove a AN FITTING every time u need the oil change.

For the guys with heavier oil.
Why did u put heavier oil?

Even when using the FTBR cover as designed you have to remove the lower fitting every time you drain. The housing is Drilled with NPT then comes with NPT to AN adapters.

Worst case, if an AN fitting wears out--replace the adapter and the hose end.

Having done this both ways now, I wouldn't go through the energy to replace the diff cover--use the fill and drain holes.

 

[Flyhalf]

Simply because of the higher operating temperature. Street temp ~100F, track temp ~260F.

Also, maybe it's because we're too cheap to buy the proper active cooler, haha.

Got it . So just to sustain higher temps?

Im not sure is really a necessity.
75w90 is already a pretty thick oil
If u think about it ford recommends
5w30 for engine going at 280f

 

[Flyhalf]

Even when using the FTBR cover as designed you have to remove the lower fitting every time you drain. The housing is Drilled with NPT then comes with NPT to AN adapters.

Worst case, if an AN fitting wears out--replace the adapter and the hose end.

Having done this both ways now, I wouldn't go through the energy to replace the diff cover--use the fill and drain holes.

Mmm.
What fitting do you use on the drain plug? And do you use it as outlet or inlet?

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Mmm.
What fitting do you use on the drain plug? And do you use it as outlet or inlet?

The FTBR cover comes with one extra hole drilled NPT (can't remember which size, but same as drain and fill holes).

The FTBR way...
You then thread the NPT to AN adapters into the OEM drain hole and the additional hole drilled adjacent to the OEM fill hole. The hose from the drain feeds the pump and cooler. The return is to the hole adjacent to the OEM fill hole. To change the fluid you remove the AN line from the drain hole. and remove the plug from the fill hole. So you're breaking one of the AN connections every time you change the fluid.

My way using FTBR kit less the modified cover...
I don't have the adjacent hole because I'm running the factory base GT cover. I threaded the return NPT to AN fitting into the OEM fill hole. I break both the feed and return AN fittings every time I change the fluid. No issues in doing it this way. If I ever do, I'll replace the faulty NPT to AN fitting and the hose end.

 

[GTP]

Got it . So just to sustain higher temps?

Im not sure is really a necessity.
75w90 is already a pretty thick oil
If u think about it ford recommends
5w30 for engine going at 280f

Yes. And I suspect the pressure on the gears is also higher than on the street. Several of us are running 140. If I had an active cooler then I would probably run 110 weight.

I follow your build and your cooling efforts. I run 0w40 for track season. I have an auxiliary oil cooler, but not a dedicated oil temp gauge. It is working well so far. Nothing different for my A10 cooling so far.

 

[tosha]

The FTBR cover comes with one extra hole drilled NPT (can't remember which size, but same as drain and fill holes).

The FTBR way...
You then thread the NPT to AN adapters into the OEM drain hole and the additional hole drilled adjacent to the OEM fill hole. The hose from the drain feeds the pump and cooler. The return is to the hole adjacent to the OEM fill hole. To change the fluid you remove the AN line from the drain hole. and remove the plug from the fill hole. So you're breaking one of the AN connections every time you change the fluid.

My way using FTBR kit less the modified cover...
I don't have the adjacent hole because I'm running the factory base GT cover. I threaded the return NPT to AN fitting into the OEM fill hole. I break both the feed and return AN fittings every time I change the fluid. No issues in doing it this way. If I ever do, I'll replace the faulty NPT to AN fitting and the hose end.

Took another look at the pics and you are right, they re-use drain hole, I got confused by the other open hole that seems to be for the sensor.

My previous post can be disregarded.

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