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Thanks all, much appreciated!

I'm trying to run my oil temp sensor wires through the fire wall hole where the sound tube was. From the engine bay it looks like its up and in from the steering column. The fire wall in the driver foot well is covered with fiber mat, doesn't seem easy to loosen and pull away to find the sound...

It looks like the other half of fuse #22 triple is fuse # 21, which is being used so if I'm going to use unused 22 (triple) I'll need to get a Micro 3 add-a-fuse. UGH! this is way more complicated than I expected.

I think we are on the same page. To have my add-a-fuse exit wire point to the rear of the car when I plug it into the fuse box, the two add-a-fuse openings are pointing down

With the add-a-fuse plugged into #35, fuses pointing down, wire exit pointing rearward. the add-a-fuse does not seat fully, only about 3/4 deep into the socket due to the exit wire coming in contact with the housing of the fuse box. It seems fairly solid but I'd prefer to have a full fuse...

@NGOT8R , you may want to double check your connection, as far as I can tell, and I'm a electrical "Novice", I need to install my "add-a-fuse" with the fuses facing down to keep the fuse in the flow of the electrical current. I could be completely wrong but that is what the info I'm getting from...

@GTP , you are correct, the hot side is forward. When I measure the forward leg to ground, I get 12 volts. When I measure the rearward to ground, I get nothing. The add a fuse I have has a continuous path on the leg opposite the wire exit. That would indicate I need to place the "add-a-fuse"...

@GTP , thanks so much for your patient and knowledgeable input. I'm headed out today to try and wrap up this diff wiring project

I guess I don’t understand “hot side” and “load side” To me, I would used those terms interchangeably, but I know almost nothing about electrical circuits. So I guess I’m getting ready to learn something. when I ground my black lead on my multi meter and put the red lead on the rearward side...

if the hot side is the right side as you look at the box, I think it’s correct as pictured. the power has to cross over the fuse to exit the wire to the left. It surly is important to get this part correct or you can burn your car down.

@NGOT8R Mine looks the same. I'll be using 35 as in your photo. Yes, I see 23 in your photo, thanks but my manual says this is used for switches, not a spare. it surely could be used for accessories as well.

In my 2019 manual, Fuse 22 is "Spare (not used)". #23 is "switches Power windows / rear-view mirror". actual observation supports that, 22 has a 5 amp fuse as the manual indicates. I am assuming there is no need to put the 5 amp fuse back into the "add-a-fuse" when added to #23 Spare-not used...

here are the passenger side and drivers side. two issues: 1) the tech adjusting couldn’t get the passenger side to move past the point it is in the pic couldn’t move closer to the strut tower opening edge so max neg camber is 2.6. 2) the pass side is 1/2 inch from Center of strut to opening...

sorry, I’ll try and post pics tomorrow

I found this thead, seems front K member alignment is a possible solution to my problem. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/front-subframe-k-member-centering.121140/

Both political parties are at fault. Each time the Federal reserve prints another trillion $ we don't have, each dollar in your pocket is worth less and it take more of them to buy everyting. Bidens (administration), newest budget proposal is 7 trillion with 3.5 trillion expected revenue. Trump...

I have a question about the hand brake pump. Is the bleeder open or closed? Open when you pull up, closed when you go down? I'm not clear on this. Also, the OP website for the Motive bleeder kit with billet aluminum cap says 2015 to 2018, does it also fit 2019 and up?

Update: I finally got a response from the Steeda technicians. I am told that one possible cause of the issue I’m having, the passenger side pushed all the way in and only achieving - 2.6 camber, can be caused by the front cradle, not being aligned perfectly. I then spoke with my local service...

Thanks everyone, much appreciated. I have no skills when it comes to electrical.

What am I doing wrong? I'm using a multimeter to check fuses in the foot well fuse box. Meter is working properly, measuring Volts DC Probe tips are small enough to get into the Microfuse openings on the fuse body I press START button (No foot on brake pedal) to activate accessory power. Radio...