Help with burning oil New M1

[Titan101]

Here is cold start this morning with a few revs.

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[Titan101]

I’ll keep an eye on it. Oil
Level hasn’t noticeably moved. I gotta get with UPR and see what they think.

 

[BlackandBlue]

Doing hard pulls to Redline, Boosted enough to Double the Horsepower output with only 300 miles on the clock, what could go wrong there? Just saying, maybe the rings never got a chance to seat because you didn't break it in before revving it out that high?

Not his problem.

 

[GregO]

I’ll keep reposting this until the Fat Lady sings….

https://www.mullenixracingengines.com/how-to-break-in-your-engine

@Titan101
This link should put to rest the “Should of waited before pouring the coals to it”.
“Run it hard” is good practice, exactly as James Mullenix explains.
Roush doesn’t wait nor did Ford with the GT500.
The PD Superchargers were installed at 0 miles and delivered to customers with a full factory warranty.

 

[BlackandBlue]

I’ll keep reposting this until the Fat Lady sings….

https://www.mullenixracingengines.com/how-to-break-in-your-engine

Parts manufacture and parts builder basically publish the same information about break in….

The internet….but my grandpa said….

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Parts manufacture and parts builder basically publish the same information about break in….

The internet….but my grandpa said….

no one says to drive it like a grandma. During break in you are trying to vary rpm as much as possible so the engine works at all rpm ranges. Maybe some WOT here and there but overall not pushing it to max or cruising for long periods. I have never had issues breaking in an engine this way.

 

[GregO]

I’m sure the OP’s rings are seated near perfectly.
There’s a lot of misconceptions out there about the merit of a properly working low pressure crankcase ventilation system.

 

[GregO]

The internet….but my grandpa said….

no one says to drive it like a grandma

Grandpa said Grandma drives like what ?

 

[Titan101]

I’ll keep reposting this until the Fat Lady sings….

https://www.mullenixracingengines.com/how-to-break-in-your-engine

@Titan101
This link should put to rest the “Should of waited before pouring the coals to it”.
“Run it hard” is good practice, exactly as James Mullenix explains.
Roush doesn’t wait nor did Ford with the GT500.
The PD Superchargers were installed at 0 miles and delivered to customers with a full factory warranty.

Yea that’s what I always believed

 

[WildHorse]

Something went haywire on either cyl # 1/2/3 or 4.

 

[ApplesAndOranges]

I'd start narrowing this down with a trouble-shooting process and keep the thread updated. Let the car sit for a while and then pull all 4 plugs on the passenger side. Stick a blue tooth camera down there and see if a piston has oil sitting on top of it.

 

[silverbullet85]

If it only smokes while sitting awhile one one side it would indicate a valve guide or cylinder head problem. Do a compression test and a leak down and stop wondering if your motors ok, find out for sure

 

[GregO]

@Titan101
Any updates ?

 

[SheepDog]

I appreciate the help. I’m just not getting how a completely open PCV system is cause oil to burn? There is no pressure being built up.

Your UPR catch can setup is designed exactly for this forced induction application. People saying that the OEM PCV System needs to be intact or left alone are wrong. The factory PCV system is designed to put a slight vacuum on the crankcase during cruise, or nearly closed throttle but engine spinning situations. This then pulls the oil, water, fuel vapors back into the engine but it isn't functioning when at part or WOT. The turbulence in the crank case as the pistons come down in the cylinder will always produce some pressure and of course this has to be released or it can cause seal issues. Back in the day, cars didn't have any PCV systems at all and just had a tube that dumped the schmeg onto the ground.

In a forced induction application however, some of the boost pressure will always make its way past the rings and of course this also needs to be released. Having an open or breather setup is the best option because all of that pressure escapes the crankcase when it matters most, under boost but also prevents any blowby from entering the intake manifold. PCV Systems were designed for emissions and preventing pollution, they have nothing to do with engine health or performance, and in fact reduce engine performance over time (Especially in DI engines) when all of that crap builds up on the back of the intake valves and in the intake manifold.

people here reference vacuum pumps on race cars. These are necessary because there is such extreme cylinder pressures in an engine that has loose tolerances, so without a pump sucking the pressure out of the crankcase, the blowby is so strong that it will blow out the crank and main seals.

Your breather catch can is not the issue. Do a leak down test and compression test

 

[Titan101]

I contacted UPR and they said I have the correct system for my setup and it’s not an issue. When it’s warm out it’s much better because there is less steam to mix with. So far oil level has been fine and plugs are clean. I have been using it as normal. Gonna see how things go as I put miles on.

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