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Wheel hop elimination??

Paul McWhiskey

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Update: working with Steeda tech help to see what they think.
looks like I'm going to have to spend even more money to fix it, the BMR762 kit looks awfully intriguing.
Just tried a launch this morning on Continental EC DWS in the wet and it still hops. Ideally, i just want them to break free until they grab like my 98 GT did 🤦‍♂️

I have this kit on mine. See signature. Since I installed it and the other items, I have not experienced hop but one time. It was during a 1-2 shift. Granted it was a hard 1-2 but I suspect that it may have been more related to the road surface as all around here are not ideal. I only have the diff bolt upgrade kit with no bushings. Car is going up on jack stands for more mods and inspection next week. Diff bushing inspection is on list of to do's.
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K4fxd

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I'll bet you have a torn bushing or 2. I have Steeda's stop the hop kit and get no wheel hop. Mine used to hop on take off and 1>2 shift.

Now it either spins or hooks up.
 

PC_GUARD

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I'll bet you have a torn bushing or 2. I have Steeda's stop the hop kit and get no wheel hop. Mine used to hop on take off and 1>2 shift.

Now it either spins or hooks up.
Did you use grade 8 bolts on your dif bushing kit? Assuming you have that
 

WD Pro

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Did you use grade 8 bolts on your dif bushing kit? Assuming you have that
Standard grade from Ford is 10.9.

12.9's are easy to get in the same size :like:

WD :like:
 

K4fxd

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Use the best bolts you can get.
 

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LSchicago

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I never had wheel hop. Even on the factory P Zero tires. Bone stock it did 1.87 60' times. But I added the STH kit after that anyway.
 
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jmagnus87

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I dropped mine last year but did not lower it all the way out.

A thought that occurred to me is, buy some threaded rod that you can wind into the 4 or even the 2 diagonally. Run the rod through the cradle up into the bolt holes to guide it back up as you jack it in.

Just a thought for everyone, that need to drop it out alone.
This is a good idea for sure. The only thing i will say is trying to find said threaded rod may prove difficult. Might need to buy 4 new blue bolts and cut the heads off them. It took me quite a while to find a tap to rethread my unibody after trying to put the 4th bolt in under the tension of all the bushings and such. Needed a ratchet strap to the front of the frame to get the 4th bolt in last time i did it.
 
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jmagnus87

jmagnus87

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Standard grade from Ford is 10.9.

12.9's are easy to get in the same size :like:

WD :like:
I used whatever came in the kit from Steeda i do believe they were grade 8 SAE or the equivalent metric which i think is the 10.9 grade. Higher than that doesn't necessarily mean stronger as the harder something is the more prone to shearing it is. I would rather the bolts bend and fail instead of shear off instantly without warning
 
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jmagnus87

jmagnus87

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I'll bet you have a torn bushing or 2. I have Steeda's stop the hop kit and get no wheel hop. Mine used to hop on take off and 1>2 shift.

Now it either spins or hooks up.
Mine has done this since brand new in '15. I had a bear of a time getting the bushings out of my factory control arms, had to use a sawzall to cut out the factory bushings then hammer and chisel out the metal ring on the outside and it STILL didn't want to peel itself out of there. Had to drive it out with the hammer and press combination the whole time.
then i bought some used factory LCAs because i hated the spherical bearings in my car and those bushings appeared to be fully intact too.
But if you mean that i have a differential bushing torn then the red polyurethane bushings aren't doing their job at all lol
 

K4fxd

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But if you mean that i have a differential bushing torn then the red polyurethane bushings aren't doing their job at all lol
Have you got the cradle bushing inserts installed? IRS braces?
 

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jmagnus87

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Have you got the cradle bushing inserts installed? IRS braces?
Yes the red bushing inserts are installed and the steeda irs braces. Everything in the ultimate kit and i even had the spherical LCA bearings. The Continental tires i have on it now i can only hear the hop now, can't actually feel anything inside so that parts nice. The Michelins were very violent with the hop
 
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jmagnus87

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WD Pro

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I used whatever came in the kit from Steeda i do believe they were grade 8 SAE or the equivalent metric which i think is the 10.9 grade. Higher than that doesn't necessarily mean stronger as the harder something is the more prone to shearing it is. I would rather the bolts bend and fail instead of shear off instantly without warning
The standard bolts from Ford are 10.9’s (and I sheared one).

The bolts with the standard kit from Steeda are 10.9’s (I checked both my spares and your photo).

Steeda offer an upgrade to the standard kit, that uses 12.9’s … :like:

WD :like:
 

Torinate

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Until and unless you pin the diff to the IRS and constrain it's movement you're not going to get rid of hop.
Just wondering what you mean by “pin the diff”. I’ve not heard that phrase.

Sorry… I sound like a newb.
 
 








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