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Modulom4

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My Gorilla (61148BCX)wheel nuts came the other week. Finally had time today in the sunshine to fit them. So pleased. The originals were on their last legs, one in particular I had to hammer on a socket to get it off. I didn't do this to them but guessing past owner just wasn't careful.

Finally I can put them on / off with one type of socket (21mm) without them being all different shapes and sizes. 😁

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Much better. :)
put anti seize on the tread you will never have problem taken them out
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compprep

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put anti seize on the tread you will never have problem taken them out
I wouldn't use anti seize as that throws off the torque applied. Maybe use on the mating surface between the wheel/hub, but not the treads. YMMV
 

nustang

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absolutely

did this on a previous car, and did a recheck on the torque after setting ... and got a couple more turns. rechecked again and snapped the stud ... on 3 studs. (slow learner).
Replaced all 5 studs as they had been stretched (and broken.) Never lube/antiseize your wheel studs.
However I have also applied antisieze to the back of the wheels (lightly) after that one time I had to get creative to get a wheel to break away from the hub.
 

Nodster

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Yeah my issue was more the standard items had been chewed by past owners using incorrect sockets (I'm assuming here). Not had any problems with the stock items being seized. But I'd concur, I wouldn't put anything on the studs/threads (don't think I've done that on any previous car I've owned). If it needed it, I'd have thought it would be like that from the factory; which it isn't. Antiseize on the hub face is perfectly fine. :)
 

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I went to Cars and Coffee. So many cars.
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_zOmbIE_

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I wouldn't use anti seize as that throws off the torque applied. Maybe use on the mating surface between the wheel/hub, but not the treads. YMMV
I've heard this lots, and it's likely true but I've also used anti-seize on all of my lug nuts of many different vehicles and have never had an issue.

Not saying to do it or not do it, just saying I've done it lol
 

Turbo2022

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To expand on the reason:
A couple of years back, when I got my Mustang, there was a lot of traffic here about this. A major complaint with the 6-speed was that to work the clutch effectively, you had to drive with your seat brought all the way forward. You wound up with your knees and steering wheel against your chest. I sure was happy to learn of this solution here, though installation was a bear. Even when removing the pedal to install it. Trying to install it in the car was much worse.
Agree 👍🏼
 

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Also the FRPP Extreme axle back by Borla - love the deep mellow sound paired with the steeda H pipe. Sounds down right nasty on WOT
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ay1820

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absolutely

did this on a previous car, and did a recheck on the torque after setting ... and got a couple more turns. rechecked again and snapped the stud ... on 3 studs. (slow learner).
Replaced all 5 studs as they had been stretched (and broken.) Never lube/antiseize your wheel studs.
However I have also applied antisieze to the back of the wheels (lightly) after that one time I had to get creative to get a wheel to break away from the hub.
I had an old beater back in the early 80s with crappy drum brakes in the rear. The studs and lug nuts used to always rust and seize. I'd have to use a big breaker bar to get them loose and had at
least one stud snap (40 years ago, so can't remember how many for sure). I finally started putting a bit of molly grease on the threads and never had another problem. Same car used to also seize up the the rim (cheep steel wheel), so would apply a thin film to the back of the wheel and around the wheel locating bore too. Only car I ever this problem with though.
 

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Washed it along with the rest of the fleet; GF’s car reeks of burning coolant. Good thing we're shopping for an M6 or 8 series vert.

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