What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

[MIDLYFE]

Looks great! What I see you have the Bullit grille, do you have adaptive cruise, if so which lower grille did you use?

Thanks. Both the upper and lower grilles are Bullitt, the upper has the chrome surround. These were my second mods, right after the H-Pipe and resonator delete. No I do not have adaptive cruise.

Sponsored

 

[Rapid Red]

New tires, old dog. Also drove the car hard for the first time since putting on Steeda K Brace. Tight, very tight, but in a good way. I highly recommend this moderately priced mod, especially if you're topless. Big improvement.

Yeah, that's a really good upgrade, plays well in the curves.

 

[Rapid Red]

Installing a shifter upgrade, required the truck shuffle to make room for the Mustang.

Just before sliding under the car finishing a cup of coffee, looking at the end of the driveway.

Saw an interesting picture 2 full-size trucks from different mothers. Snapped it, LMAO the 32 looks like a toy.

 

[Nodster]

Thanks for all the comments and help. Steeda strut fitment take 2. Took a bit longer due to coffee and cake!

So I took the nuts off - defintely on too tight.

Raided my dad's supply of washers and we worked out what we needed in order to level off the inner most studs. They all just needed a 2mm washer, one though needed x2 2mm washers.

Doubled the washers up on top as recommended, cut away the edge of the larger washer to make way for the weld. Steeda really should supply wider washers to begin with. The ones supplied just cover the holes.

Sitting much better now compared to yesterday on both sides (no floating gap).

Then torqued them down. Much better feel through the torque wrench, you could feel them nipping up and going tight, whereas yesterday I could have just kept on going.

Happy with that.

 

[Rapid Red]

What is preventing the 2 surfaces from seating without the spacers?

That is very odd.

 

[GTP]

Yeah I recall having to go through all this re-engineering of the situation. Ideally, the thick standoff washers supplied by Steeda would be identical thickness as the Ford cowl brace. Either you have to find washer(s) that match the cowl brace thickness, or add washer(s) on top of the cowl brace (and underneath the Steeda brace). IOW all the elevations have to match. What a hassle, especially when you start off thinking the install will go quick and easy.

Having said all this, the Steeda brace is nicely made, looks good, and performs well.

 

[WoodburnGT]

Went drag racing yesterday with my son. Car went a best of 12.5 @115mph. Next week it gets kooks headers, and E85 dyno tune.

 

[ice445]

What is preventing the 2 surfaces from seating without the spacers?

That is very odd.

The fact that he has the cowl reinforcement. The cowl reinforcement is leveled for the ford brace, whereas the steeda brace is designed to drop straight onto the bare shock towers which have a bit of an angle normally. At least that's how I understood it.

 

[fmc_smt]

Drove it to work to catch up on some things. Work on a want to be Mustang . I think a 5.0 will fit .

 

[Jerry Carguy]

This was me. I installed the Steeda strut brace and those are the aftermarket nuts it came with. The nuts have the white plastic inside. Steeda say 35lbft for the torque and I'm going to redo the fitment today.

Ok, those are Nylok nuts, designed to provide equal joint robustness to a standard (taller) nut with a much higher torque requirement. The plastic is Nylon. Notice that there are no threads sticking up after full assembly. Normally, a minimum of two exposed threads is the rule. With a standard nut/bolt joint the torque is determined by how many ft/lbs are needed to stretch the bolt. Stretching the bolt is what results in clamping power, which prevents loosening of the joint. The Nylok approach is equal in performance by preventing loosening caused by vibration. All at much lower torque values. Hope this helps... Let's hope Steeda engineers did the proper testing to confirm a solid joint over time considering the high amount of vibration in the engine compartment.

Jerry

 

[Bulldog9]

Well, it was yesterday, but put these puppies on. Did the Springs last year, should have done it all. Nice improvement.

 

[5speed]

Whats the active suspension like and how does it compare to stock ? I have some that will be installed thursday. Im hoping you say rides better than stock at slower speeds and when you load the suspension it stiffens nicely

Well, it was yesterday, but put these puppies on. Did the Springs last year, should have done it all. Nice improvement.

 

[WD Pro]

Ok, those are Nylok nuts, designed to provide equal joint robustness to a standard (taller) nut with a much higher torque requirement. The plastic is Nylon. Notice that there are no threads sticking up after full assembly. Normally, a minimum of two exposed threads is the rule. With a standard nut/bolt joint the torque is determined by how many ft/lbs are needed to stretch the bolt. Stretching the bolt is what results in clamping power, which prevents loosening of the joint. The Nylok approach is equal in performance by preventing loosening caused by vibration. All at much lower torque values. Hope this helps... Let's hope Steeda engineers did the proper testing to confirm a solid joint over time considering the high amount of vibration in the engine compartment.

Jerry

Ford also use nyloc’s in that area, but of slightly different heights depending if they are on the body studs or not :

Fords spec for the body studs :

WD

 

[Nodster]

Ok, those are Nylok nuts, designed to provide equal joint robustness to a standard (taller) nut with a much higher torque requirement. The plastic is Nylon. Notice that there are no threads sticking up after full assembly. Normally, a minimum of two exposed threads is the rule. With a standard nut/bolt joint the torque is determined by how many ft/lbs are needed to stretch the bolt. Stretching the bolt is what results in clamping power, which prevents loosening of the joint. The Nylok approach is equal in performance by preventing loosening caused by vibration. All at much lower torque values. Hope this helps... Let's hope Steeda engineers did the proper testing to confirm a solid joint over time considering the high amount of vibration in the engine compartment.

Jerry

Thanks! Yeah I'd have been happier with a few threads poking through but what I'll do is drive it a few times and then check the torque again and see if they are holding fast or not.

Ford also use nyloc’s in that area, but of slightly different heights depending if they are on the body studs or not :

Fords spec for the body studs :

WD

Interesting Ford say 41 lbft whereas Steeda say 35 lbft. Not too worried... as I did them up to 45 lbft (60 Nm).

 

[Bulldog9]

Whats the active suspension like and how does it compare to stock ? I have some that will be installed thursday. Im hoping you say rides better than stock at slower speeds and when you load the suspension it stiffens nicely

Only 50 miles or so, as I still need a proper alignment, but ride and response is improved. The Upper bearing of the strut mount built into the camber plates is much smoother than the OEM. So much so that normal steering mode feels like comfort. Will likely change when camber is dialed in, but it was noticeable. Much smoother, much less pitching on rough roads, and tight response. Biggest change was in the rear which is more comfortable.

**One caveat is that the shop that did the Sport spring install last summer did NOT trim the bump stops, so some of the pitching was likely due to being on the bump stops early. These prebuilt Steeda units with upper mount and camber plates are outstanding.

I did notice that the Steeda shocks say made in Holland. Is that Intrax, Koni , SAF?

Sponsored