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Jack / Jack Stands ?

PVAMT

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Anyone want to chime in with Jack / Jack Stand recommendations? I had to sell mine a couple of moves ago - and now it’s time to rebuy. I’m planning on going with 4 jack stands - ramps have never been all that natural to me (but I’m interested if you have a strong preference on that too).

Thanks!
I went with a set of Steeda full length jacking rails, 4 six ton jack stands and a 6 ton floor jack. (Works on my truck too.) I also made some ramps with 2x12’s stacked and screwed together. That way I don’t scrape any part while going up. My metal car ramps were too steep. If you can use wooden ramps to change a Metro or King Air aircraft tire it will hold a Mustang and it was like $30 for wood and screws.
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BluePonyGT

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I think all your points, with the exception of this, are spot on. I think it's better to lift up either the front or rear of the car first, rather than the left or right side. Lifting up e.g. the front first, by putting a jack stand under the left front side, then right front side, then similarly for the rear, avoids the car tilting very strongly to one side. When the car is tilted so strongly to one side, apart from placing undue pressure on various joints, the balance will also have to shift very strongly when you start jacking up the other, now very low, side. This is more apt to unbalance the jack stands on the other side.

I started doing it this way after I once experienced that the jack stands on the other side, which I had lifted first, were suddenly balancing on only two legs, rather than four.
Where's your lift point in the front to lift both front wheels at once? I've explicitly avoided that on this car unless I have a reliable frame cross-member to rely on. Also with the low profile this car has now (I'm an inch lower than stock) I'm doubting I can reach whatever you're using.
 

Michael_vroomvroom

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Where's your lift point in the front to lift both front wheels at once? I've explicitly avoided that on this car unless I have a reliable frame cross-member to rely on. Also with the low profile this car has now (I'm an inch lower than stock) I'm doubting I can reach whatever you're using.
Oh, I wish. I can't do both wheels at once like that, so have to lift up e.g. left front first, then right front, then same for the back.

I would like to do both at once, and I've seen some cross bar attachment for the jack lifts(like this, which is just the first one I found when searching now: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24833-Floor-Jack-Crossbeam/dp/B00X9LZBDI), but even though my car is not lowered I also doubt I could easily slide one under, unless I bought some ramps to drive the car up on first. But at that point it becomes more hassle than it's worth.
 

BluePonyGT

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Oh, I wish. I can't do both wheels at once like that, so have to lift up e.g. left front first, then right front, then same for the back.

I would like to do both at once, and I've seen some cross bar attachment for the jack lifts(like this, which is just the first one I found when searching now: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24833-Floor-Jack-Crossbeam/dp/B00X9LZBDI), but even though my car is not lowered I also doubt I could easily slide one under, unless I bought some ramps to drive the car up on first. But at that point it becomes more hassle than it's worth.
Ok I thought so. This is why I mentioned jacking rails. With those you can lift one side of the car at once from one spot, and you don't have to do the dance with the lift points on all 4 corners. Otherwise you have to.
 

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Michael_vroomvroom

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Ok I thought so. This is why I mentioned jacking rails. With those you can lift one side of the car at once from one spot, and you don't have to do the dance with the lift points on all 4 corners. Otherwise you have to.
I have jacking rails, but the car will still lean all the way over to the left or right side, putting a lot of unexpected sideways pressure on parts probably not engineered for that.
I did it like this a few times after I got the jacking rails (it's nice having to avoid the four corner dance), but now I think it's not worth the one or two minutes saved.
 

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Just jack up one side of the car with the rail first at the lowest level on two jack stands then jack up the opposite side on the rail and put it on two more stands. Once the car is on all 4, raise the height on both sides.

I'm using the Daytona (Snap-On rip off that they tried to sue over) jack and HF aluminum jack stands. Haven't died yet and I've left the car on jack stands for multiple days before.
 

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Just jack up one side of the car with the rail first at the lowest level on two jack stands then jack up the opposite side on the rail and put it on two more stands. Once the car is on all 4, raise the height on both sides.

I'm using the Daytona (Snap-On rip off that they tried to sue over) jack and HF aluminum jack stands. Haven't died yet and I've left the car on jack stands for multiple days before.
Yes, this exactly. Lifting the car on one side using jacking rails from one lift point is perfectly fine - so long as you don't try to go too high (enough to get your two jack stands in there) and you don't leave the car that way for a long period of time. It's going to put stress on your tires and rims on the opposite side, possibly the hubs, but it's not going to hurt anything if your goal is to get your car in the air.
 

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friedmud

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So I ended up with this great low-profile, 3 ton Crafstman kit: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Craftsman-3T-Floor-Jack-and-3T-Jack-Studs/5001651821

It’s pretty dang nice and can go from 3 inches to 18 - which is beyond all the other budgetish jacks I looked at.

The kit comes with two 3 ton stands too - all for $185.

I used it today to take the rear wheels off to install some rock guards. Here’s a pic of (odd angle makes it look small - it’s actually the largest and heaviest jack I’ve personally used):

65D9D43F-F90C-4753-8B7E-E8C18BA97C69.jpeg


Thanks everyone for all of the good info!
 

ice445

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Yes, this exactly. Lifting the car on one side using jacking rails from one lift point is perfectly fine - so long as you don't try to go too high (enough to get your two jack stands in there) and you don't leave the car that way for a long period of time. It's going to put stress on your tires and rims on the opposite side, possibly the hubs, but it's not going to hurt anything if your goal is to get your car in the air.
I think it's pretty much impossible to actually twist these cars to any measurable amount regardless of how you lift it because of how stiff and well constructed they are. I've always done the four corner method, but it's a night and day difference with this car versus my old Taurus. On that car, even with the front supported on jack stands and the rear wheels on the ground, the front doors barely open, you can feel the resistance from how much the entire tub is sagging at the mid point where the door sits at the B Pillar. On the S550, I can open the door easily no matter what I do. Car construction has come a long way in not that much time.
So I ended up with this great low-profile, 3 ton Crafstman kit: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Craftsman-3T-Floor-Jack-and-3T-Jack-Studs/5001651821

It’s pretty dang nice and can go from 3 inches to 18 - which is beyond all the other budgetish jacks I looked at.

The kit comes with two 3 ton stands too - all for $185.

I used it today to take the rear wheels off to install some rock guards. Here’s a pic of (odd angle makes it look small - it’s actually the largest and heaviest jack I’ve personally used):

65D9D43F-F90C-4753-8B7E-E8C18BA97C69.jpeg


Thanks everyone for all of the good info!
I recommend going to a sporting good store and buying an authentic hockey puck, that's what I use on all my jacks. It's tough rubber that won't get damaged from using it to lift things, but it's soft enough to not mess up the car. I just jack on my pinch weld with it since I don't have jacking rails, and it essentially grips the pinch weld with a soft touch. It also is flexible enough to allow for the natural angle that is produced as the car is lifted up.
 
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friedmud

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I think it's pretty much impossible to actually twist these cars to any measurable amount regardless of how you lift it because of how stiff and well constructed they are. I've always done the four corner method, but it's a night and day difference with this car versus my old Taurus. On that car, even with the front supported on jack stands and the rear wheels on the ground, the front doors barely open, you can feel the resistance from how much the entire tub is sagging at the mid point where the door sits at the B Pillar. On the S550, I can open the door easily no matter what I do. Car construction has come a long way in not that much time.

I recommend going to a sporting good store and buying an authentic hockey puck, that's what I use on all my jacks. It's tough rubber that won't get damaged from using it to lift things, but it's soft enough to not mess up the car. I just jack on my pinch weld with it since I don't have jacking rails, and it essentially grips the pinch weld with a soft touch. It also is flexible enough to allow for the natural angle that is produced as the car is lifted up.
That’s great advice! I was going to buy one of the hard rubber inserts from Amazon - but a puck is perfect and there are plenty of them around here. Thanks!
 

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Better to buy quality ... I've got an older jack that leaks fluid that I need to see if I can fix. Anyone had to replace an o-ring and can direct me to how-to videos?
 

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Jacking rails ++
Quickjack +++!!!
I would never get under a car with only one jack stand. Bad for car and potentially really bad for you.
Agree, money very well spent.

After taking possession of the Mustang, installing jack rails.

Owning 2 floor jacks, 4 jack stands. One real floor jack Hein-Werner 3T. The other a light weight imitation, and a number of years using all.

Now having the GT, with no way to jack front then rear. I was unable to convince myself that raising one side at a time, placing the stands . Was very good idea.

Quick Jack was the next best option.
The least hassle and the most sensible salutation.

If I were to have a dislike about the Quick Jack. That's now solve for me. Is the time it takes to get the blocks aligned and centered in the trays, and ramps centered to the jack rails.

Picture shows blocks permanently located. Only requiring the lift ramps to be placed under the jack rails.


IMG_0257.jpeg
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