Jack / Jack Stands ?

[sjmurphy34]

To add on to the quickjack discussion, I have a 7000slx and love it however it is very heavy and somewhat of a pain to position under the car before you lift it. I saw this mobility kit on etsy from a guy who custom makes these and ordered a set even though they are kinda pricey. https://www.etsy.com/listing/910296830/complete-mobility-kit-for-quick-jack

The swivel wheels allow you to push and slide it under the car with ease. Then when the jack starts to lift the swivel wheels lift off the ground so you don't have to worry about the jack moving or anything while it's lifting. Super convenient. Only downside is they add a tiny amount of height to the fully collapsed height but it still fits under my slightly lowered mustang with some room to spare.

edit: just realized these may be the same thing Rich was talking about a few posts up.

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[Fly2High]

For the s550, should the jack or jack stands be lifting on the pinch weld or the flat above it?

I ask because I see jack and stands that have varying amount of a groove or notch on the contact point and am wondering what part should take the weight or if it doesn’t matter and is only preference.

does not have depth really matter or it better to have a flat top on a stand or jack pad?

 

[ORRadtech]

Many of us have jacking rails that bolt beside the pinch weld and they are basically the same depth as the welds.
You can also get pucks that have slots for the pinch welds. I personally wouldn't use the pinch welds unprotected and wouldn't trust the "flat" beside them.

 

[RichGT350R]

Jacking Rails are really a good inexpensive addition to our cars. Just knowing for the cost and less then a half hour to install, you can jack the car without worrying if your going to hurt something.

 

[1WILDHORSE]

I agree with the jacking rail line of thought, its relatively low cost and gives ease of mind that you shouldn't have to worry about any damage to the car. I just ordered the BMR version along with quickjack 5000.

 

[RichGT350R]

I agree with the jacking rail line of thought, its relatively low cost and gives ease of mind that you shouldn't have to worry about any damage to the car. I just ordered the BMR version along with quickjack 5000.

I did both as well, the BMR Jacking Rails, in Red and the Quickjack 5000. Your gonna Love It! I did get the combo deal from Costco, it came with another set of rubber blocks with cutouts for the pinch welds as well has wall hangers to store the quick jacks. I keep mine under the car.. there is just enough clearance that I don’t have to take them off the wall when I want to jack up the car!

 

[ChitownStang]

So, I've never got a clear answer on this...
if you don't have jack rails and you want to lift the rear so you can put the jack stands under the pinch weld locations, where do you lift from? I used to use the rear diff on my 15gt with no issues but some say it's risky.
On the front I jack under the black cross member where the 2 big bolts are.
What do you guys think?

 

[Fly2High]

from what I recall of the owner's manual, there is no safe place to jack the car up from the front or back. Only safe from the sides according to that.

Then again, they cannot get oil weight right and other printings so why would we believe that.

 

[Rapid Red]

Not a safety issue it's about damage to the drive train.

 

[friedmud]

For the s550, should the jack or jack stands be lifting on the pinch weld or the flat above it?

I ask because I see jack and stands that have varying amount of a groove or notch on the contact point and am wondering what part should take the weight or if it doesn’t matter and is only preference.

does not have depth really matter or it better to have a flat top on a stand or jack pad?

i hear everyone on the jacking rails - but I don’t have them yet (and can’t currently buy them).

I jack mine on the pinch weld. There are little cutouts in it behind the front tire and in front of the back tire where the manual says to put the jack. Unfortunately, with normal jack stands you can’t jack at those points _and_ put the jack stands there. So: I put the jack on the pinch weld near there - jack it up and put the jack stands in the cutouts.

I will get jacking rails as soon as possible - but I thought I would answer the direct question with what I do.

 

[friedmud]

So, I've never got a clear answer on this...
if you don't have jack rails and you want to lift the rear so you can put the jack stands under the pinch weld locations, where do you lift from? I used to use the rear diff on my 15gt with no issues but some say it's risky.
On the front I jack under the black cross member where the 2 big bolts are.
What do you guys think?

I put what I do above (just move the jack a bit inward of the jack points on the pinch welds - and lower the car onto jack stands where the cutouts are for the jack points). It’s what I’ve always done my whole life - but I’m willing to be wrong if that’s not the right thing to do with mustangs…

 

[Fly2High]

The reason I ask about the pinch weld is that the notch location is often complemented by a succor jack that also has a notch. The jack is really lifting by the flat and not the pinch weld. The weld is just used to locate the spot.

i do have a Ford Mustang jack and I did install BMR rails. Love them. I like the way they protect the inner portion of the rails by having tubes for where the mounting bolts go. Basically, the interior of the tail is sealed off. I also like their length and how the are just a smidge taller than the weld so you are really not touching the weld when jacking.

As for my original question, I am thinking of stands and whether they should have a deep notch or shallow for this car.

separately, the QuickJacks look great and thank you for the head’s up at Costco. They also sell the 7000SLX which is 1/2” higher (4” vs 3.5” when flat) but can lift more weight. With the horrible battery cars coming I am thinking I prefer the extra capacity. Not sure if they will fit when the rubber blocks are added to protect/ interact with the pinch weld. Also not sure if they will fit under our Mustang but I think they will.

 

[RichGT350R]

The reason I ask about the pinch weld is that the notch location is often complemented by a succor jack that also has a notch. The jack is really lifting by the flat and not the pinch weld. The weld is just used to locate the spot.

i do have a Ford Mustang jack and I did install BMR rails. Love them. I like the way they protect the inner portion of the rails by having tubes for where the mounting bolts go. Basically, the interior of the tail is sealed off. I also like their length and how the are just a smidge taller than the weld so you are really not touching the weld when jacking.

As for my original question, I am thinking of stands and whether they should have a deep notch or shallow for this car.

separately, the QuickJacks look great and thank you for the head’s up at Costco. They also sell the 7000SLX which is 1/2” higher (4” vs 3.5” when flat) but can lift more weight. With the horrible battery cars coming I am thinking I prefer the extra capacity. Not sure if they will fit when the rubber blocks are added to protect/ interact with the pinch weld. Also not sure if they will fit under our Mustang but I think they will.

They will fit under the Mustang.. If you lowered the car, you may just have to drive up on a 2x12 or two.

Keep in mind, the EXT Model is too long for the Mustang, however you can order the SLX and order the EXT Adapter plate of you need the extra length for another vehicle

 

[ChitownStang]

I put what I do above (just move the jack a bit inward of the jack points on the pinch welds - and lower the car onto jack stands where the cutouts are for the jack points). It’s what I’ve always done my whole life - but I’m willing to be wrong if that’s not the right thing to do with mustangs…

If that's ok to do then I'd say that's the easiest. I thought there was extra bracing at the specified points and if you go away from those you could do damage.
Here is a good image of some spots

 

[friedmud]

If that's ok to do then I'd say that's the easiest. I thought there was extra bracing at the specified points and if you go away from those you could do damage.
Here is a good image of some spots

I think the pinch weld is pretty strong anywhere in those areas - the biggest issue is is that you don’t want to fold over / bend the pinch weld much - it can degrade it over time. Using a “jack pad” (hard rubber pad that goes on your jack) to spread the pressure from your jack out along the pinch weld can help with that. Many of them even have notches in them to help stabilize everything.

With all of that said…. After all of the advice here - I finally decided to just convince my fiancé that I could spend another $100 on my car (note: she’s not against spending on the car usually - but I just put a ton into the car and we have a wedding coming up) and I bought these jacking rails:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/steeda-...ull-length-pair-fastback-2015-2021/p/5555212/

Should be here by early next week. I figure that it’s a pretty small investment that will help protect my car for a long time.

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