10R80 Owners - ULTIMATE M6G 10R80 Facts + Resolutions to harsh or no shift conditions

[Bikeman315]

I know that but OP stated that Ford wouldn’t allow the dealer to open the tranny. The buy back threat could change their mind. The dealer, of course, would need to be an advocate for the OP and push the issue.

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[Alan2955]

After the software update it was good for a while but it degraded again. I went back to the service, they said valve body and fluid seal look worn/damaged. So they replaced valve body again, and the seal I guess or is that the part of the valve body (valve body replacement was already done at another service few months ago).

I picked up my car Wednesday (2 days ago), and on the ride home it was jerky but I got the standard spiel that I need to wait 100-150 miles for it to learn my driving. There was ONE big jerk from R to D when parking in my garage (before it was almost exclusively P to R). Last night I had a 100 miles road-trip, highway, city, stop and go highway congestion. Actually the car started feeling buttery smooth, even on downshifting to a stop which was my major issue so far. Or maybe I am lying to myself, and gotten used to shitty shifting. R to D or P to R jerk didn't happen at all.

To sum up my experience so far:
- Visit 1, Service 1: Low transmission fluid, fixed.
- Visit 2, Service 1: Valve body replaced.
- Visit 3, Service 1: They claimed there are no issues.
- Visit 4, Service 2: Software update, ie, adaptive strategies update.
- Visit 5, Service 2: Another valve body change.

I was surprised that they didn't completely open up the transmission to check for mechanical damage, not only valve body check. Can somebody tell me why would valve body be damaged in such a short period? What is the probability of getting a factory damaged valve body two times?

When I asked about opening up the transmission, the service manager said:
"""
We are unable to open the transmission per our Work-shop process (WSM) Ford Motor Co has established. Per WSM process the vehicle, our technician found a fault with-in the valve body, during his inspection found no other debris or metal contamination with in trans assembly to warrant dis-assembly of the transmission.
"""

I have a case with Ford open and contemplating on trying to get a buyback for a lemon car. I love the car, I just wanted it fixed, but I think I reached my limits of tries. Any opinions on this, fellow Mustang lovers?

Sad that these transmissions are such a mess. My 2020 Ecoboost behaved similarly to yours. Occasional extreme harsh reverse engagement, jerky downshifts especially the lower gears and right as it dropped into first coming to a stop. Also very jerky up shifts in sport modes. So the dealer updated it and erased the adaptive strategies. Much better for a few days but then the jerky downshifts and occasional harsh reverse returned. To this day I’ve never driven one of these that shifted really well. I tried a couple of used ecoboosts. One worse than my updated one and one a tad better. Drove 3 used GTs. 2 were so so, and one was horrible. Even the salesman warned me about it without me saying a word about transmissions. My dealer stonewalled me by giving the old ‘it’s learning’ BS. I just gave up and traded the damn thing off. How sad Ford is making junk like this. Some people report theirs is butter smooth. I’ve yet to figure out what ‘normal’ is on these. Ford definitely has a huge problem. Buyers beware. Maybe someday In a few years I’ll look at a GT again. It’s amazing how long it’s taking Ford to get these right. Great cars but the quality just isn’t there.

 

[mustangpegasus51]

@filipradenovic honestly I'd go for the buyback. If the next one's also a dud do it again and get something else. Or, at least that's my plan after returning my lemon law'd car a few days ago.

Just a heads up if you do:

1) Give them at least 30 days to try and fix if they haven't already as it will help build your case.

2) Know that it may be difficult to find a replacement until the 2021's roll out, likely because of covid-19 inventory shortages. In my situation, I surrendered my original vehicle, get the check and bought my replacement separately from an out-of-state dealer.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

Has anyone identified a fix to the slow to engage D after reverse when cold issue? I usually let it warm 2 mins and it still does it...My wife wasn't prepared for it even though I watched her let the car run a few minutes...my fault but still....

Thanks

 

[IrishStallion]

I have learned just to let the car warm up as much as possible. These colder temps make trans temps take forever to get into operating range. Car is definitely quirky, but I have learned to live with it.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

I have learned just to let the car warm up as much as possible. These colder temps make trans temps take forever to get into operating range. Car is definitely quirky, but I have learned to live with it.

Yea thanks, not really complaining, but recently had the trans clutches upgraded aka have a lot of money into it...and didn't want to do anything to hurt it....if there a fix like fluid level or front pump.
The front pump seems to be serviceable in car, can anyone confirm that its replaceable without pulling trans?

If I leave to cold it has that slow to engage R to D, then the first 2 shifts with light throttle might flare a bit...then by the time I'm to next stop sign ( 1/2 mile its already smoothing out )...

 

[Thegipper]

Hi all. I’m not technically inclined so I’d like to ask you all....what is actually happening with the transmission when I get a jarring 4 to 5 shift with a clunk. It feels like I’ve been rear-ended. It makes me not want to accelerate hard. It seems like 4th is being held a long time and then into 5th it’s like a sudden jarring shift.
This is the biggest issue I’m dealing with with my transmission.

 

[Cobra Jet]

First things first....

It’s been reported by many 10R80 owners they are finding the transmission is coming from the factory low on fluid, which will causes all sorts of shifting issues. Check first post, page 1 of this thread, it has all of the links for each issue, including how to check the fluid level with proper dipstick readings.

If fluid is at proper mark when HOT, then vehicle should be taken to a Ford Service Center to demo the issue to a Tech or Shop Foreman. Initial fixes are software reflashes after they perform XYZ diagnosis. If the software flash does not work, they may find that the valve body is exhibiting higher than normal line pressure (which results in the very harsh and “slammed” shift points). This will result in a valve body replacement and software reflash.

The Tech MUST perform the proper method of steps needed AFTER any trans software reflash. If the Tech does not follow the steps to the T, then the trans will still shift funky. Again, this is outlined in post 1 with an actual image from my Service Center diagnosis which outlined exactly what the Tech did for the reflash process.

Not all Service Centers are the same, so not everyone will have the exact positive results after a reflash, but it’s most important the Tech do the proper steps.

My 10R80 has shifted great since valve body replacement and reflash.

Again there are many detailed links in the first post that will guide users to proper diagnosis for many 10R80 concerns.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

First things first....

It’s been reported by many 10R80 owners they are finding the transmission is coming from the factory low on fluid, which will causes all sorts of shifting issues. Check first post, page 1 of this thread, it has all of the links for each issue, including how to check the fluid level with proper dipstick readings.

If fluid is at proper mark when HOT, then vehicle should be taken to a Ford Service Center to demo the issue to a Tech or Shop Foreman. Initial fixes are software reflashes after they perform XYZ diagnosis. If the software flash does not work, they may find that the valve body is exhibiting higher than normal line pressure (which results in the very harsh and “slammed” shift points). This will result in a valve body replacement and software reflash.

The Tech MUST perform the proper method of steps needed AFTER any trans software reflash. If the Tech does not follow the steps to the T, then the trans will still shift funky. Again, this is outlined in post 1 with an actual image from my Service Center diagnosis which outlined exactly what the Tech did for the reflash process.

Not all Service Centers are the same, so not everyone will have the exact positive results after a reflash, but it’s most important the Tech do the proper steps.

My 10R80 has shifted great since valve body replacement and reflash.

Again there are many detailed links in the first post that will guide users to proper diagnosis for many 10R80 concerns.

I had looked there but didn't really see the fix for the slow R to D....

I'm not under warranty car is modified

 

[Cobra Jet]

I had looked there but didn't really see the fix for the slow R to D....

I'm not under warranty car is modified

Mine initially had the slow R to D.... then it became the slow R to D with a massive “slam”, felt like the car had actually been hit.... then started the harsh upshifts/downshifts as described by many. The slow R to D didn’t matter if it was cold (fall/winter months) or warm (spring/summer months).

It was found that the valve body was faulty, once it was replaced and the trans updated to what was then the most current software, all has been fine since.

Not sure if that gives you any better guidance.

I’m also not sure if you were to do a DIY valve body replacement if you would then need to do any “programming”. I only say that because the valve bodies have a code on them that is used for IDS programming and apparently when mine was replaced, that code changed too.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

Yea thanks, not really complaining, but recently had the trans clutches upgraded aka have a lot of money into it...and didn't want to do anything to hurt it....if there a fix like fluid level or front pump.
The front pump seems to be serviceable in car, can anyone confirm that its replaceable without pulling trans?

If I leave to cold it has that slow to engage R to D, then the first 2 shifts with light throttle might flare a bit...then by the time I'm to next stop sign ( 1/2 mile its already smoothing out )...

And then my friend who is a ford tech and has a 2020.....sends me a video he hasn't started his car in 3 days.. cold as hell at night...he fires it up doesnt let it warm ZERO puts into R smoothly backs up on D smoothly rolls forward twice....

He is like dude its not normal your car is taking 6-8 seconds to go forward the first start of the day....now my wife is starting to get pissed/worried as she has had to use it more in 2 weeks than she has in 2 years....

I even remote started it preemptively for her...but when I said les or so, she said quote " why, my suv doesn't need to do that to go forward after I back out, nor the one before that or before that, nor our daughters jeep nor any vehicle she has ever got in"....i got no answers and trans is already built so I have no clue what to do now....

Go to Ford and hope they show some mercy after 3 engines and 2 trans....ill have to load stock tune which it won't start or run with to even get them to try to update strategies much less anything else...

 

[Det_Riot]

Yea thanks, not really complaining, but recently had the trans clutches upgraded aka have a lot of money into it...and didn't want to do anything to hurt it....if there a fix like fluid level or front pump.
The front pump seems to be serviceable in car, can anyone confirm that its replaceable without pulling trans?

If I leave to cold it has that slow to engage R to D, then the first 2 shifts with light throttle might flare a bit...then by the time I'm to next stop sign ( 1/2 mile its already smoothing out )...

It's not the pump it's your valve body. If you had the clutches upgraded due to slipping there's a 99% chance that all that burnt up clutch dust is stuck throughout your valve body. You can get a new one from the dealer for ~600, it's simple to replace yourself, then you'd need to take the car to the dealer to have them update the IDS Software if you don't have access to it yourself. After that it shouldn't have any issues at all. We fought the same thing in my wifes car and since we replaced the VB back in June we've put probably 4,000 miles on the car and 50-60 passes at ~1000 wheel without a hiccup!

Mine initially had the slow R to D.... then it became the slow R to D with a massive “slam”, felt like the car had actually been hit.... then started the harsh upshifts/downshifts as described by many. The slow R to D didn’t matter if it was cold (fall/winter months) or warm (spring/summer months).

It was found that the valve body was faulty, once it was replaced and the trans updated to what was then the most current software, all has been fine since.

Not sure if that gives you any better guidance.

I’m also not sure if you were to do a DIY valve body replacement if you would then need to do any “programming”. I only say that because the valve bodies have a code on them that is used for IDS programming and apparently when mine was replaced, that code changed too.

^Nailed it

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

It's not the pump it's your valve body. If you had the clutches upgraded due to slipping there's a 99% chance that all that burnt up clutch dust is stuck throughout your valve body. You can get a new one from the dealer for ~600, it's simple to replace yourself, then you'd need to take the car to the dealer to have them update the IDS Software if you don't have access to it yourself. After that it shouldn't have any issues at all. We fought the same thing in my wifes car and since we replaced the VB back in June we've put probably 4,000 miles on the car and 50-60 passes at ~1000 wheel without a hiccup!



^Nailed it

Thanks bud,
What's the part number to make sure I get the latest revision?
Also are there gaskets ect that don't come with it to buy in addition?

Can I put it in S and drive from install spot to Ford dealer marry it? Its about 9 miles from Spot it will.be done??

Thanks a lot I feel better about it now....

 

[Det_Riot]

Thanks bud,
What's the part number to make sure I get the latest revision?
Also are there gaskets ect that don't come with it to buy in addition?

Can I put it in S and drive from install spot to Ford dealer marry it? Its about 9 miles from Spot it will.be done??

Thanks a lot I feel better about it now....

Pretty sure there's only one part number for it - JL3Z-7A100-B
We got a new trans filter we did at the same time but that's all. It technically will drive okay without the solenoid codes being updated, and some tuners will tell you all you need to do is a trans relearn procedure off the nguage but it will cause you sporatic issues without doing the IDS update.

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