2019+ Voodoo Changes

[bauern]

Any reason whey the DI heads would not work with the Voodoo block ?

Can't think of one.

I'll just add, as I know you are aware of it, the Coyote crank has .012" shorter stroke (edited to correct difference) and the Voodoo piston has a shorter deck height (.007"). You could use the block savings to get the 5.2 CP crank. You might even be able to buy the 2020 GT500 crank when the parts catalog gets updated.

On a side note, I have had the 12:1 Voodoo pistons and the 12:1 Gen 3 pistons from J&E, both 3.700 bore, in front of me. The dome heights are different. You'll want to check if you use Voodoo pistons with Gen3 Coyote heads.

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[olaosunt]

Can't think of one.

I'll just add, as I know you are aware of it, the Coyote crank has about .040" shorter stroke and the Voodoo piston has a shorter deck height (.007"). You could use the block savings to get the 5.2 CP crank. You might even be able to buy the 2020 GT500 crank when the parts catalog gets updated.

On a side note, I have had the 12:1 Voodoo pistons and the 12:1 Gen 3 pistons from J&E, both 3.700 bore, in front of me. The dome heights are different. You'll want to check if you use Voodoo pistons with Gen3 Coyote heads.

Thanks for the information . I knew there werw minor” differences between the coyote crank and the 5.2 crank sold by Ford performance(it’s a lot more $$$ too) but did not know the details .

I am “ technical challenged “ so I rely on on my engine builder (and experts like you willing to educate me) Lol

My builder did already build me a 5.2 CP short block (coyote crank ) with the Gen 2 Voodoo block that replaced the MMR 5.2 that was in my 2015 Hellion car after the crank broke .

If the voodoo pistons are different than the ones used on the Gen 3 coyote then Probably best to keep to my original plan to build a spare for my GT 350.

Not in a rush(since CP build is planned as a spare for the 18 GT -hope I did not jinx myself ) so I may wait to see if they offer the predator short block or the crank but based on the price of the current 5.2 crank they sell it wont be cheap !

 

[bauern]

I only brought up the Predator crank as in the past the OEM parts were cheaper than the same part from FR. For example, the Voodoo block from a dealer was a few hundred dollars cheaper than from FR. The dealer block didn't come with oil squirter, the timing chain dowels or a couple of oil galley plugs but they were easy and cheap to get. With the rise in prices from FR parts, just something to keep in mind.

 

[olaosunt]

Hi Boss
Thanks for being such a fountain of Knowledge and being always willing to share with us “technically challenged “ individuals like myself .

I wanted the see what you would recommend for my Voodoo rebuild after bending a rod .
I was running moderate amounts of boost with the 2.9 whipple and builder thinks I may have lifted the heads but not a 100% on the cause .

Block is already sleeved and we will be using diamond pistons .
I am debating where to upgrade to the ultralight weight Callies rods or stick to the Manley H rods as I had planned .
I have seen 2 builds including honey badger use the Callie rods but there applications are different since the they are NA and road race .

It will only cost $800 and a week delay to upgrade to the ultralight rods .
Also the H rods are only rated to 700 ft-lbs but my engine builder says they are good to 1100 .

Any thoughts?
Thanks for any recommendations you have .

 

[Droopy1592]

Are people that are getting replacement motors for pre-19 cars getting these updated parts as well, not just the block?

 

[Greg35]

Are people that are getting replacement motors for pre-19 cars getting these updated parts as well, not just the block?

Yes, read 1st pg. this thread. From all posts I've seen here and on GT350 Owners forum all replacement engines are in fact '19 GT350 R , "KA" engines ..

 

[Droopy1592]

Yes, read 1st pg. this thread. From all posts I've seen here and on GT350 Owners forum all replacement engines are in fact '19 GT350 R , "KA" engines ..

This is a first to me so probably have to explain it like I’m five... most people that report a replacement engine say they get a new block so not sure what’s being reused and what comes with the block...

 

[Greg35]

GrabberBlue...

 

[Shift]

This is a first to me so probably have to explain it like I’m five... most people that report a replacement engine say they get a new block so not sure what’s being reused and what comes with the block...

Even the intake manifold gets replaced, if that gives you any indication of how much is being replaced along with the entire engine itself.

 

[GrabberBlue]

All replacement engines are now the 2019 Long Blocks straight off the Niche Romeo Line. Got 650 miles on mine so far and she is doing great! Zero oil consumption.

 

[nodonut]

All replacement engines are now the 2019 Long Blocks straight off the Niche Romeo Line. Got 650 miles on mine so far and she is doing great! Zero oil consumption.

I picked mine up on July 5. Drove her back from Arizona to California. I just rolled over 2100 miles. ZERO oil consumption. I was going to change the oil at 1500 miles and was told by a Ford tech who works on GT350's that I should leave the break in oil and not change the oil until I roll over 3000/3500 miles. I was told some who have changed the oil at 1000 or 1500 miles, like I was going to, end up with the ticking sound because the valves didn't have time to seat properly with the break in oil. I can't help but think there may be something to that, because I kept the revs down below 3000 rpm for the 1st 100 miles and varied my speed and rpm's, with no high revs until I hit 1000 miles. She runs like a top now and hitting 7500 rpm in 3rd gear is definitely a sweet spot when jumping on the freeway. No oil consumption as of yet and no ticking sounds. Just FYI.

 

[Bulldogs22]

I picked mine up on July 5. Drove her back from Arizona to California. I just rolled over 2100 miles. ZERO oil consumption. I was going to change the oil at 1500 miles and was told by a Ford tech who works on GT350's that I should leave the break in oil and not change the oil until I roll over 3000/3500 miles. I was told some who have changed the oil at 1000 or 1500 miles, like I was going to, end up with the ticking sound because the valves didn't have time to seat properly with the break in oil. I can't help but think there may be something to that, because I kept the revs down below 3000 rpm for the 1st 100 miles and varied my speed and rpm's, with no high revs until I hit 1000 miles. She runs like a top now and hitting 7500 rpm in 3rd gear is definitely a sweet spot when jumping on the freeway. No oil consumption as of yet and no ticking sounds. Just FYI.

I didn't go above 3000 for the first 100 miles but after that Ive hit up to 8000 now with 700 miles. I believe these race engines need to not be babied until a 1000 or so so I have been accelerating hard to about 7000 then letting it come down to about 3500 to build tons of pressure. Would like insight on the oil change at 1000 though because that's when I planned to do it to get all of the break in metal out.

 

[orangegrower]

I have followed a lot of the 5.0 guys with the Coyote's and the typewriter tick noise. It seems like a lot (but not all) have run into the noise problems after early first oil changes. I have always done my first oil change early for obvious reasons. Maybe there is something to this. I also thought that factory breakin oil was a thing of the past but maybe not. I also thought I saw somewhere where someone sent in a sample of their factory oil to a lab and it came back as regular Motorcraft oil. Lots of questions to be answered by someone smarter than me.

 

[Bcobb85]

Changed my oil at 500 miles, then again at 1,000 miles to get all of the debris from the build out. There is no break-in oil in our cars when they hit the dealers, only the standard Motocraft 5w-50.

...Just hit 18k miles on my motor, no issues.

 

[nodonut]

I didn't go above 3000 for the first 100 miles but after that Ive hit up to 8000 now with 700 miles. I believe these race engines need to not be babied until a 1000 or so so I have been accelerating hard to about 7000 then letting it come down to about 3500 to build tons of pressure. Would like insight on the oil change at 1000 though because that's when I planned to do it to get all of the break in metal out.

I am not an engineer and by no means am I an expert on any matter concerning cars. I simply know just enough to be dangerous!. I rely on input and advice from experts and experienced drivers such as the one's found in this forum. I cannot vouch for the Ford tech, but, I was told they do ADD a break in additive to the oil at the factory. I suppose the only way to find out for sure, would be to talk to those at Flat Rock or possibly at Ford Performance.

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