2019 5.2 Voodoo Bbq / typewriter tick

[GT Pony]

Does that mean it's present but barely when the AC is off or not evident at al when the AC is off? If it's not there at all when AC is off, I'd be looking at the AC compressor. I'm thinking this because it does vary with the engine speed. I'd think a #4 bearing issue would vary with engine speed.

I'd think any kind of noise caused by a parts clearance issue could be affected by slight changes in engine load and/or engine RPM.

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[hiiammarcin]

Nope. It’s there with the ac off, just with a different cadence.

Does that mean it's present but barely when the AC is off or not evident at al when the AC is off? If it's not there at all when AC is off, I'd be looking at the AC compressor. I'm thinking this because it does vary with the engine speed. I'd think a #4 bearing issue would vary with engine speed.

 

[JAJ]

I've listened to the video a few times and the more I listen the more it sounds to me like an electrical thing. That bright snapping noise has too many high frequencies and not enough resonance - it just doesn't sound like it's coming from deep inside 500 pounds of metal. It's more like it's coming from a lightweight part that's very close to the surface and exposed to the air. The nearly random timing suggests that it might be controlled by an electrical signal, perhaps it's controlled by the ECU. Maybe a solenoid or a electric valve that's cycling. It could also be a spark from a loose connection jumping somewhere - that's in Ford's diagnostic table although not for this engine - but it is that kind of sound.

Anyway, for solenoids and actuators, the candidates are, in no particular order, the IMRC solenoid, the EVAP purge valve, AC clutch, starter, EPAS and of course the box with a forest of relays, the Battery Junction Box. The starter is attractive because it's close to the #4 lower bearing. The IMRC solenoid is also interesting because it's at the back of the engine too.

Anyway, the possibility is there that this may not be a mechanical engine thing, it might just be something else entirely.

 

[GT Pony]

I've listened to the video a few times and the more I listen the more it sounds to me like an electrical thing. That bright snapping noise has too many high frequencies and not enough resonance - it just doesn't sound like it's coming from deep inside 500 pounds of metal. It's more like it's coming from a lightweight part that's very close to the surface and exposed to the air. The nearly random timing suggests that it might be controlled by an electrical signal, perhaps it's controlled by the ECU. Maybe a solenoid or a electric valve that's cycling. It could also be a spark from a loose connection jumping somewhere - that's in Ford's diagnostic table although not for this engine - but it is that kind of sound.

Anyway, for solenoids and actuators, the candidates are, in no particular order, the IMRC solenoid, the EVAP purge valve, AC clutch, starter, EPAS and of course the box with a forest of relays, the Battery Junction Box. The starter is attractive because it's close to the #4 lower bearing. The IMRC solenoid is also interesting because it's at the back of the engine too.

Anyway, the possibility is there that this may not be a mechanical engine thing, it might just be something else entirely.

In a case like that, time to get out a stethoscope and start trying to locate the noise source.

 

[hiiammarcin]

Thanks for th

I've listened to the video a few times and the more I listen the more it sounds to me like an electrical thing. That bright snapping noise has too many high frequencies and not enough resonance - it just doesn't sound like it's coming from deep inside 500 pounds of metal. It's more like it's coming from a lightweight part that's very close to the surface and exposed to the air. The nearly random timing suggests that it might be controlled by an electrical signal, perhaps it's controlled by the ECU. Maybe a solenoid or a electric valve that's cycling. It could also be a spark from a loose connection jumping somewhere - that's in Ford's diagnostic table although not for this engine - but it is that kind of sound.

Anyway, for solenoids and actuators, the candidates are, in no particular order, the IMRC solenoid, the EVAP purge valve, AC clutch, starter, EPAS and of course the box with a forest of relays, the Battery Junction Box. The starter is attractive because it's close to the #4 lower bearing. The IMRC solenoid is also interesting because it's at the back of the engine too.

Anyway, the possibility is there that this may not be a mechanical engine thing, it might just be something else entirely.

Thanks for all the great info. Like the other member mentioned, I’m going need get stethoscope and try to isolate it. Any other ideas how to approach this?

 

[FLETCshooter]

Hey all....1st time post here....I also have a 2019 GT350 with a lil over 4500 mile... and yes about the 1400mile mark I was hearing that ticking noise which sounds like rockers ticking away on right bank of engine. At 1500-2000rpm is where you hear it the loudest and anything above that higher RPM it is still there but you need to listen closely. From what I heard that ford is aware of this " what I call a problem " which they say is normal. So, I have talked to a few dealer friends etc. and what needs to be addressed is that any GT350 owners that have this ticking noise is to start a paper trail by taking your ticking GT350 to the dealer and have them look at it which will be documented in the Ford Dealer Data Base. This way if anything happens you covered your A$$$$$...I will be taking mine in for the recall oil lines and also make them aware of the ticking noise and have it documented....p.s. sorry for the long post....

 

[lenFeb]

Hey all....1st time post here....I also have a 2019 GT350 with a lil over 4500 mile... and yes about the 1400mile mark I was hearing that ticking noise which sounds like rockers ticking away on right bank of engine. At 1500-2000rpm is where you hear it the loudest and anything above that higher RPM it is still there but you need to listen closely. From what I heard that ford is aware of this " what I call a problem " which they say is normal. So, I have talked to a few dealer friends etc. and what needs to be addressed is that any GT350 owners that have this ticking noise is to start a paper trail by taking your ticking GT350 to the dealer and have them look at it which will be documented in the Ford Dealer Data Base. This way if anything happens you covered your A$$$$$...I will be taking mine in for the recall oil lines and also make them aware of the ticking noise and have it documented....p.s. sorry for the long post....

I thought the recall oil lines was an issue for 2015-2017???

 

[5.0AVP]

My 15 5.0 had this sound after every oil change. This is the BBQ tick as I understand it. I used full synthetic oil and read a thread awhile back from another GT owner who wouldn't give up regarding the tick. In the thread a field engineer did indeed diagnose it as cavitation. The thread stated that the field engineer mentioned he had heard it before with the F250. I tend to believe this explanation as the noise would disappear after 1k miles or so once the oil thickened up. Furthermore the only fix that I found other than ceratec or patience was a whole new short and or long block with mixed results. I wasn't interested in having my dealer perform surgery on my car or the decreased resale value so I just decided to live with it. I had an extended warranty and was mostly stock so I figured if it went boom then I would cross that bridge when I had to.

 

[GT Pony]

My 15 5.0 had this sound after every oil change. This is the BBQ tick as I understand it. I used full synthetic oil and read a thread awhile back from another GT owner who wouldn't give up regarding the tick. In the thread a field engineer did indeed diagnose it as cavitation. The thread stated that the field engineer mentioned he had heard it before with the F250. I tend to believe this explanation as the noise would disappear after 1k miles or so once the oil thickened up. Furthermore the only fix that I found other than ceratec or patience was a whole new short and or long block with mixed results. I wasn't interested in having my dealer perform surgery on my car or the decreased resale value so I just decided to live with it. I had an extended warranty and was mostly stock so I figured if it went boom then I would cross that bridge when I had to.

Oil typically gets thinner with use due to shearing. Look at any UOA and the used oil will have a lower KV40 and KV100 viscosity compared to the new oil viscosity.

Theory is the ticking may go away with some miles on it because the oil has become contaminated with combustion soot which acts like "carbon dust" (carbon black) which is essentially what the old Motorcraft XL-17 additive was. Ford use to recommend the XL-17 to quiet the engine ticking.

Another theory is new oil also strips some of the anti-wear/anti-friction additive layer off parts (hence the tick shows up after an oil change), and it takes some miles for that anti-wear/anti-friction layer to build back up. So seems the ticking is more related to the friction level between parts, and not actually oil cavitation in the journal bearings. If it was oil cavitation, why do some cars tick and others don't?

 

[CNFLCTD]

Oil typically gets thinner with use due to shearing. Look at any UOA and the used oil will have a lower KV40 and KV100 viscosity compared to the new oil viscosity.

Theory is the ticking may go away with some miles on it is because the oil has become contaminated with combustion soot which acts like "carbon dust" (carbon black) which is essentially what the old Motorcraft XL-17 additive was. Ford use to recommend the XK-17 to quiet the engine. Another theory is new oil strips some of the anti-wear additive layer off parts, and ut takes some miles for that AW layer to build back up. So seems the ticking is more related to the friction level between parts, and not actualky oil cavitation in the journal bearings. If it was oil cavitation, why do some cars tivk and others don't?

Out of curiosity, why did Ford 'used to' recommend XK-17 but dont any longer?

 

[GT Pony]

Out of curiosity, why did Ford 'used to' recommend XL-17 but dont any longer?

I don't know, but Ford no longer makes XL-17 oil treatment. If you go back and find reports of BBQ ticking in the early days of the Coyote, Ford field engineers would recommend the XL-17 to cure the ticking, which it usually did. Maybe Ford developed XL-17 because of the ticking issue. I'm not sure why it was originally developed.

 

[Condor1970]

I don't know, but Ford no longer makes XL-17 oil treatment. If you go back and find reports of BBQ ticking in the early days of the Coyote, Ford field engineers would recommend the XL-17 to cure the ticking, which it usually did. Maybe Ford developed XL-17 because of the ticking issue. I'm not sure why it was originally developed.

XL-17 was developed to help engines break in without ruining them, by allowing it to perform better during the break in period without causing harm. Basically, the graphite lube slows the break-in process to prevent damage.

I went to my local Roush dealer to ask about additives, since I use Ceratec, and they said one of the best alternatives to XL-17 is Krex.

Krex is basically identical to XL-17 in being a straight forward Graphite lubricant suspended in a mineral oil base. Like Ceratec, you can use it with any oil.

I've been thinking of trying it out, since it is slightly less expensive than Ceratec, and you can use it EVERY oil change with no adverse effects. Although, they say that about Ceartec too, so heck I dunno. Also, unlike Ceratec, it is black, and you don't visually notice it in the used oil.

 

[GT Pony]

XL-17 was developed to help engines break in without ruining them, by allowing it to perform better during the break in period without causing harm. Basically, the graphite lube slows the break-in process to prevent damage.

I went to my local Roush dealer to ask about additives, since I use Ceratec, and they said one of the best alternatives to XL-17 is Krex.

Krex is basically identical to XL-17 in being a straight forward Graphite lubricant suspended in a mineral oil base. Like Ceratec, you can use it with any oil.

I've been thinking of trying it out, since it is slightly less expensive than Ceratec, and you can use it EVERY oil change with no adverse effects. Although, they say that about Ceartec too, so heck I dunno. Also, unlike Ceratec, it is black, and you don't visually notice it in the used oil.

Yeah, seems basically the same as XL-17. Maybe XL-17 was made by Krex for Motorcraft. Is DriveSure the maker of Krex?

 

[Rubyred17]

XL-17 was developed to help engines break in without ruining them, by allowing it to perform better during the break in period without causing harm. Basically, the graphite lube slows the break-in process to prevent damage.

I went to my local Roush dealer to ask about additives, since I use Ceratec, and they said one of the best alternatives to XL-17 is Krex.

Krex is basically identical to XL-17 in being a straight forward Graphite lubricant suspended in a mineral oil base. Like Ceratec, you can use it with any oil.

I've been thinking of trying it out, since it is slightly less expensive than Ceratec, and you can use it EVERY oil change with no adverse effects. Although, they say that about Ceartec too, so heck I dunno. Also, unlike Ceratec, it is black, and you don't visually notice it in the used oil.

 

[Rubyred17]

I have a bottle and have been very tempted to try it but it’s coal black and will turn the oil black. If something happens to the engine I fear they will disallow my warranty because I used it

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