BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

[cyclonetron]

If your intentions are to make it handle as best as you can longer term, I'd say keep the Pro-Kit for now and just wait until you have the money ready to go for the full spring + damper setup you want. The min drop springs would probably have a better ride quality than the Pro-Kit, but iirc they were designed to be paired with the PP dampers. Adding the extra cost of re-clocking and alignment just puts you further away from the setup it seems like you want.

So I’m a little concerned with the steering now that it’s dropped 1.1”. Is my steering that effected? I don’t want to burn out any electronic steering controls prematurely. If nothing is too effected I’ll just save up for some dampers.

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[Nagare]

So I’m a little concerned with the steering now that it’s dropped 1.1”. Is my steering that effected? I don’t want to burn out any electronic steering controls prematurely. If nothing is too effected I’ll just save up for some dampers.

You're not going to affect the electronic steering with it and if you can't notice any ill effects regarding steering, I would say not to worry about it for now. There are diminishing returns on components and although it might feel like you're missing out on something, if you can't pinpoint anything wrong with how the car feels, you don't need to spend money to "fix" it. Further down the line if you have the extra change to spend, maybe look into something like the Steeda bump steer kit to address steering feel. In my opinion, biggest changes come from the springs, dampers, and sway bars. If you're having issues from a dig, IRS braces. Still having issues? Rear control arms. Steering issues? Bump steer kit. There's a lot of parts out there that you CAN do, but my vote is address what you FEEL you're unsatisfied with.

 

[Voo Doo]

This should be made a sticky at the top, most people never think about doing any of this!

In my opinion,....this should be a "sticky".

Moderator... is this not a sticky yet?? .....you can also add...”make sure you have a full tank of gas for added weight”

 

[Dr. Norts]

Getting this done next week at an alignment guy that sets up everything from back road street cars to all out race cars.

He knew exactly what I meant when I said I want to have my bushings clocked, which put my mind as ease. I find you get looked at like you have 3 heads when you ask about this service 99% of the time.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Moderator... you can also add...”make sure you have a full tank of gas for added weight”

I agree. This is a valuable thread but we would have many pages of stickies if everything as important was made a sticky.

 

[Cardude99]

Getting this done next week at an alignment guy that sets up everything from back road street cars to all out race cars.

He knew exactly what I meant when I said I want to have my bushings clocked, which put my mind as ease. I find you get looked at like you have 3 heads when you ask about this service 99% of the time.

I hope it's that easy when I go in next week.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Moderator... is this not a sticky yet?? .....you can also add...”make sure you have a full tank of gas for added weight”

Let me suggest driver (seated) plus half a tank of fuel. Or if a passenger is commonly but not always aboard, driver + half a passenger weight + half a tank of fuel.

The idea is to use an overall average loading condition.


Norm

 

[Dr. Norts]

Going to get this done tonight.

I have the ford toe knuckle bearing and steeda lateral links with bearings. Is it still required to loosen these locations?

Also these 2 pics show different points (vertical links). Are the vertical links included or no? I have steeda ones with poly bushings if it matters.

 

[BMR Tech]

It is good practice to loosen and torque every suspension pivot point with the full weight of the vehicle sitting on the tires.

Components that have a poly-bushing or a monoball/rod-end/spherical bearing do not technically "need" to be clocked or indexed at ride height, BUT...if the part has a protective rubber boot such as the Ford style (toe knuckle bearings) - indexing and torquing at ride height will help the protective rubber boot live a longer life.

Polyurethane bushed components with a free floating (non bonded) center sleeve, do not really need to be torqued at ride height...but again, it is good practice.

 

[BmacIL]

It is shocking how much that inner control arm point (166 ft lbs) needs this, though really needs replaced with a bearing. I am loving the change to one.

 

[Dr. Norts]

All done. Took the guy an little over an hour and a half to loosen all the bolts and do my alignment. He definitely knew what he was doing under there. He had me sit in the car during the alignment, which I believe should always be done anyways but most places don't.

Front ended up exactly -1.3 both sides. I have no camber plates so its where it is but I have no issues with it, the car handles great. I doubt I'd notice much if anything going from -1.3 to -1.5 anyways.

The rest he set to BMRs street / handling alignment specs.

Car drives awesome for what I do, so i'm putting this suspension puppy to bed.

 

[ChiTownStang26]

Just ordered some steeda comp dual rate springs and going to attempt this in a week or 2.

Is it impossible to do this without a lift? My plan was to build up some cut 2x10s and lower the car onto them then clock the bushings. I am a powerlifter so torquing everything down on my back shouldnt be impossible.

I was going to bring it to the local Just Tires for the alignment after but if I asked them to clock the bushings I'm sure they will either not know what I'm saying or will fuck it up somehow.

Should I try it? Should I put more faith in my fellow man and let them do it? Should I pay @BmacIL in cheeseburgers to do it?

 

[Nagare]

If you can go to the alignment shop while the manager is away, that might be your best bet. Throw a bit of cash at the tech, or maybe just ask nicely, and they might let you get under the car to do it yourself.

From what I've read in this thread, doesn't seem like you would want to be fighting the angles here.

 

[Bobombo]

You don't have to clock if you have bearings instead of rubber?

 

[BmacIL]

You don't have to clock if you have bearings instead of rubber?

Correct.

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