BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

[Mazman]

I by no means have tried this with that specific bolt, but would a trusty cheater bar piece of pipe on the torque wrench help?

I don't think you can just simply extend a torque wrench as per the info I have been reading regarding extension of torque wrenches :(

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[Norm Peterson]

You can extend it from the square drive end to the socket, but then you have to correct your target torque to account for the increased leverage. Extending the handle end makes for a different load case from what the torque wrench was designed to/calibrated for, with no easy way to correct for. It's a structural analysis thing.


Norm

 

[drewzh]

I tried to get under the car today with some new ramps I purchased - it was possible to re-torque some of the bolts with the space and angles I was dealing with, but not enough of them that it's worth doing myself. I've booked in to get the car up on an alignment 4 post lift for everything to be re-torqued.

 

[Mazman]

How high are your ramps?

I tried to get under the car today with some new ramps I purchased - it was possible to re-torque some of the bolts with the space and angles I was dealing with, but not enough of them that it's worth doing myself. I've booked in to get the car up on an alignment 4 post lift for everything to be re-torqued.

 

[drewzh]

How high are your ramps?

Not very apparently! They'll do for oil changes in future I suppose. I've got a guy to help me tomorrow on a 4 post lift.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

I tried to get under the car today with some new ramps I purchased - it was possible to re-torque some of the bolts with the space and angles I was dealing with, but not enough of them that it's worth doing myself. I've booked in to get the car up on an alignment 4 post lift for everything to be re-torqued.

I hope the four post you're referencing lifts at the tire locations only. I clocked my bushings today on a roll-on lift and it was a total PIA to re-torque. I managed it, but there was nothing easy about getting the 184ft/lbs on the fronts.

Quick tip #1: use a wrench to loosen so there's no risk of disengaging the bolt and having the control arms go out of place under load. Quick tip #2: yelling at the torque wrench does, in fact, help get to the desired spec more easily.

Pics:


Wrenches are premier...

Don't back out your bolt too far...just loosen them enough to release the tension on the bushing...

A roll-on lift isn't the best, but is better than short ramps I suppose...this lift negated the leverage to torque things to spec easily...

 

[drewzh]

I hope the four post you're referencing lifts at the tire locations only. I clocked my bushings today on a roll-on lift and it was a total PIA to re-torque. I managed it, but there was nothing easy about getting the 184ft/lbs on the fronts.

Quick tip #1: use a wrench to loosen so there's no risk of disengaging the bolt and having the control arms go out of place under load. Quick tip #2: yelling at the torque wrench does, in fact, help get to the desired spec more easily.

Pics:


Wrenches are premier...

Don't back out your bolt too far...just loosen them enough to release the tension on the bushing...

A roll-on lift isn't the best, but is better than short ramps I suppose...this lift negated the leverage to torque things to spec easily...

Yes definitely a roll on type. My guy couldn't get 6 of the 20 or so bolts clocked though. He couldn't get enough clearance for the rear upper control arms or 2 on the front (I forget which - I'd have to check the diagram, but it was due to clearance with the wheel).

He said he spent an hour at £78.

The car didn't suddenly drop into place (my main issue was uneven drop), but when I checked the next day, each corner was exactly 34cm from the top of the hub cap to the wheel arch. So problem solved. I'm still not confident there's no tension needing to be released though on those bushings he didn't torque, but maybe it's 'good enough'? It's only a 1inch drop for me (Magneride).

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Yes definitely a roll on type. My guy couldn't get 6 of the 20 or so bolts clocked though. He couldn't get enough clearance for the rear upper control arms or 2 on the front (I forget which - I'd have to check the diagram, but it was due to clearance with the wheel).

He said he spent an hour at £78.

The car didn't suddenly drop into place (my main issue was uneven drop), but when I checked the next day, each corner was exactly 34cm from the top of the hub cap to the wheel arch. So problem solved. I'm still not confident there's no tension needing to be released though on those bushings he didn't torque, but maybe it's 'good enough'? It's only a 1inch drop for me (Magneride).

Math rarely lies, and in this case if you're even at 34cm I wouldn't worry too much. It's a shame he couldn't get to all of the bolts, but it is almost impossible with a roll-on to get these torqued. A HUUUUGE torque wrench is required, and we're talking about one click at a time to get things in place. I just went through the pain and had to "guess" the torque specs on some bolts with a traditional wrench and swearing.

 

[drewzh]

Math rarely lies, and in this case if you're even at 34cm I wouldn't worry too much. It's a shame he couldn't get to all of the bolts, but it is almost impossible with a roll-on to get these torqued. A HUUUUGE torque wrench is required, and we're talking about one click at a time to get things in place. I just went through the pain and had to "guess" the torque specs on some bolts with a traditional wrench and swearing.

Yeah, I don't think I'm going to worry too much now. It sounds like the swearing really helped!

 

[mejohn50]

I just did this yesterday along with my spring/damper install. Necessary to do it, but what a pain.

 

[Mazman]

I just did this yesterday along with my spring/damper install. Necessary to do it, but what a pain.

Did you do it on a lift?

I am still contemplating if it is possible on 10.8"(27.5cm) wheelcribs

 

[Digital_Synapse]

Maybe I'm a wimp but I recently did some 129 ft/lbs on my back and I'm guessing 203 would have been impossible.

Not trying to be rude, I laughed so hard at this. It reminded me when I did mine, I pulled so hard I basically slid across the floor like a pull up.

 

[mejohn50]

Did you do it on a lift?

I am still contemplating if it is possible on 10.8"(27.5cm) wheelcribs

Yes I used a lift like what @Roadway 5.0 used above. I think a lift is mandatory. There are huge torque values to hit and it might be difficult on your back. I had a hard time hitting some on the lift.

If I had to do it again I’d likely pay someone.

 

[cyclonetron]

@BMR Tech If I switched from Eibach Pro-Kit to the BMR minimum drop springs would I need to re clock my bushings? I already re clocked once and would prefer not having to spend the money to do it again. Would I have a better ride with the minimum ride drop springs and base dampers as a daily driver? Or would you still suggest upgrading dampers to the Ford Racing Track dampers?

 

[Nagare]

@BMR Tech If I switched from Eibach Pro-Kit to the BMR minimum drop springs would I need to re clock my bushings? I already re clocked once and would prefer not having to spend the money to do it again. Would I have a better ride with the minimum ride drop springs and base dampers as a daily driver? Or would you still suggest upgrading dampers to the Ford Racing Track dampers?

If your intentions are to make it handle as best as you can longer term, I'd say keep the Pro-Kit for now and just wait until you have the money ready to go for the full spring + damper setup you want. The min drop springs would probably have a better ride quality than the Pro-Kit, but iirc they were designed to be paired with the PP dampers. Adding the extra cost of re-clocking and alignment just puts you further away from the setup it seems like you want.

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