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I have a neighbor who surely has a floor jack I can use. So I’ll use those two combined with my MC jack to support the cradle and give it a go. Thanks for the tips!

There is a sensor that you have to unplug on the differential? I haven't seen that. I already dropped my previous 3.15 pumpkin and have the 3.55 in right now. I didn't notice anything I had to unplug or plug in except the vent line. Also, I do have a motorcycle scissor jack I can use to support...

You have an immaculate garage sir. I only have one floor jack. Can I lower the subframe on side at a time?

what tools did you use to torque the bolts?

Good to know. My car is my daily so I’ll skip that one. I do have the cradle lockout and Steeda alignment pins which I’m very pleased with.

Did you go with the BMR bushing kit? How do you like it?

Did you drop the pumpkin too? What exactly did you do to drop the subframe?

I have the driveshaft to diff bolts already torqued and the rear diff bolts right. I’ll loosen the rear diff bolts after I tap the fronts. I’m really not wanting to have to take the entire pumpkin out as I struggled with it for over an hour just to get it lined up and the rears hooked in. Doing...

I’ll check it out. In the meantime I ordered this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/M14-X-2-0-Metric-14MM-Carbon-Steel-Plug-Tap-4FL-USA-MADE-Irwin-1752-ZR/390556582701?pageci=85e5e8f1-2f46-4cd4-b52b-c06e33f55064&epid=1723308376

The only problem is I need m14x2.0 that’s an odd size and I had a hard enough time finding it in a tap. Still though, I’ll look for this.

If I go this route, will I drop the subframe and drill from the front toward the rear of the car?

Thank you for the tips. Any cutting oil you recommend?

I think the bushing housing was stripped from the factory. I’m going to try tapping them first. If that works great, if not, I’ll drill out the threads and use the bolt through method. This gear swap struggle is real.

I’m getting ready to do this, did you drill out the bushing insert from the front going towards the rear?

I’m in the process of adding a new differential. I have the front bolts in fine but the rear are giving me tons of resistance. To the point where it stops and I’m afraid it will snap the bolt. What are my options? I think both threads of the bushing are stripped. Can I get a tap to make fresh...

I have a pair of J&M rear shock mounts for the s550 Mustang. I had to drill out the holes to mount them. The fit is a little tight but you just have to line up the holes and you'll be good. Price is $100 shipped.

Its been a while since I posted my issues but I was able to get them worked out directly with J&M. Their customer service is top notch and I was able to resolve the issue. I am definitely going to order other parts from them in the future. The rear is more planted and feels much more composed...

I purchased a set of SVE S350 wheels with lug nuts and they gave me a spline drive socket with it, but its a real chore to use. I have to use a separate socket and put the spline drive in that to tighten my lug nuts. Is there a better option out there that I can directly attach to my torque wrench?

I really would like to use these J&M mounts since I have them but I’m not thrilled about the holes I had to drill. It’s such a chore to line up the holes and get the bolts in. Not to mention I had to drill out both sets of holes, potentially compromising the structural integrity of the mount.

Yeah, I’d love a full set of FP or Bilsteins but can’t fork the money right now, plus the Konis should be replaced under warranty. I’m hesitant though to instal the J&M mounts again. Especially with all the drilling I had to do. Even so, the fit still isn’t good and it’s really hard to mount...