BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by BMR Tech, Feb 9, 2016.

  1. cyclonetron

    cyclonetron Well-Known Member

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    So I’m a little concerned with the steering now that it’s dropped 1.1”. Is my steering that effected? I don’t want to burn out any electronic steering controls prematurely. If nothing is too effected I’ll just save up for some dampers.
     
  2. Nagare

    Nagare Well-Known Member

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    You're not going to affect the electronic steering with it and if you can't notice any ill effects regarding steering, I would say not to worry about it for now. There are diminishing returns on components and although it might feel like you're missing out on something, if you can't pinpoint anything wrong with how the car feels, you don't need to spend money to "fix" it. Further down the line if you have the extra change to spend, maybe look into something like the Steeda bump steer kit to address steering feel. In my opinion, biggest changes come from the springs, dampers, and sway bars. If you're having issues from a dig, IRS braces. Still having issues? Rear control arms. Steering issues? Bump steer kit. There's a lot of parts out there that you CAN do, but my vote is address what you FEEL you're unsatisfied with.
     
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  3. Voo Doo

    Voo Doo Well-Known Member

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    Moderator... is this not a sticky yet?? .....you can also add...”make sure you have a full tank of gas for added weight”
     
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  4. Dr. Norts

    Dr. Norts Well-Known Member

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    Getting this done next week at an alignment guy that sets up everything from back road street cars to all out race cars.

    He knew exactly what I meant when I said I want to have my bushings clocked, which put my mind as ease. I find you get looked at like you have 3 heads when you ask about this service 99% of the time.
     
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  5. HoosierDaddy

    HoosierDaddy Well-Known Member

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    I agree. This is a valuable thread but we would have many pages of stickies if everything as important was made a sticky.
     
  6. Cardude99

    Cardude99 Well-Known Member

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    I hope it's that easy when I go in next week.
     
  7. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    Let me suggest driver (seated) plus half a tank of fuel. Or if a passenger is commonly but not always aboard, driver + half a passenger weight + half a tank of fuel.

    The idea is to use an overall average loading condition.


    Norm
     
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  8. Dr. Norts

    Dr. Norts Well-Known Member

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    Going to get this done tonight.

    I have the ford toe knuckle bearing and steeda lateral links with bearings. Is it still required to loosen these locations?

    Also these 2 pics show different points (vertical links). Are the vertical links included or no? I have steeda ones with poly bushings if it matters. 1.jpeg 2.jpg
     
  9. OP
    OP
    BMR Tech

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    It is good practice to loosen and torque every suspension pivot point with the full weight of the vehicle sitting on the tires.

    Components that have a poly-bushing or a monoball/rod-end/spherical bearing do not technically "need" to be clocked or indexed at ride height, BUT...if the part has a protective rubber boot such as the Ford style (toe knuckle bearings) - indexing and torquing at ride height will help the protective rubber boot live a longer life.

    Polyurethane bushed components with a free floating (non bonded) center sleeve, do not really need to be torqued at ride height...but again, it is good practice.
     
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  10. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    It is shocking how much that inner control arm point (166 ft lbs) needs this, though really needs replaced with a bearing. I am loving the change to one.
     
  11. Dr. Norts

    Dr. Norts Well-Known Member

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    All done. Took the guy an little over an hour and a half to loosen all the bolts and do my alignment. He definitely knew what he was doing under there. He had me sit in the car during the alignment, which I believe should always be done anyways but most places don't.

    Front ended up exactly -1.3 both sides. I have no camber plates so its where it is but I have no issues with it, the car handles great. I doubt I'd notice much if anything going from -1.3 to -1.5 anyways.

    The rest he set to BMRs street / handling alignment specs.

    Car drives awesome for what I do, so i'm putting this suspension puppy to bed.
     
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  12. ChiTownStang26

    ChiTownStang26 Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered some steeda comp dual rate springs and going to attempt this in a week or 2.

    Is it impossible to do this without a lift? My plan was to build up some cut 2x10s and lower the car onto them then clock the bushings. I am a powerlifter so torquing everything down on my back shouldnt be impossible.

    I was going to bring it to the local Just Tires for the alignment after but if I asked them to clock the bushings I'm sure they will either not know what I'm saying or will fuck it up somehow.

    Should I try it? Should I put more faith in my fellow man and let them do it? Should I pay @BmacIL in cheeseburgers to do it? :fingerscrossed:
     
  13. Nagare

    Nagare Well-Known Member

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    If you can go to the alignment shop while the manager is away, that might be your best bet. Throw a bit of cash at the tech, or maybe just ask nicely, and they might let you get under the car to do it yourself.

    From what I've read in this thread, doesn't seem like you would want to be fighting the angles here.
     
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  14. Bobombo

    Bobombo Active Member

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    You don't have to clock if you have bearings instead of rubber?
     
  15. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    Correct.
     
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