Wheel spacer questions

[AlbertD]

The wheel hub kit you posted would be a great option if you do not want to change out the studs yourself and this way you have an extra set of hubs laying around if you need them. Some 25mm slip on spacers and open ended lug nuts and you are all set.

On the street... I run 19x11 SVE 350s all around so when I come back from the track, I swap the Apex out for the SVEs and leave the spacer on. The studs aren't sticking out and it looks great on the street. If you are wanting to avoid the studs sticking out on the street (for aesthetics) and you are running a decent amount of camber you could try running the 20x10s with the spacer on and see what kind of clearance you have.

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[EFI]

If I were to run a studded spacer on track, I would only use the Motorsport Tech alcoa ones. I would never trust Chinese made spacers on track.

 

[fatbillybob]

Op...now with more info we can see where you are at. Its called the slippery slope to becoming a track rat. Enjoy the journey. Don't even waste your time thinking too hard on spacers. They will be the cheapest thing you buy all year.

My journey started when some high ups in a club let me run my car around the track at reduced speed no helmet at lunchtime. Those A Holes now I call friends gave me 1 hit on the go fast crack pipe. That evolved into wheel to wheel racing all over the country and several racecars. All that made my kid's 4 years at college look cheap! I would do it all over again.

 

[c_reber]

I'm going to take some flack for this, but I run the bolt-on type spacers (with studs) on track. I usually do 5-10 track days per year, but no actual racing. At first, I would check the lugs after every session, being a bit paranoid. Never once have I had a loose lug (torquing usually to 125lbs). I still check them occasionally and certainly before any track day, but that's just my experience. If I had more money to spend on the longer studs, and tracked more often, sure... longer studs is the better and safer thing to do.

I'm a cheap bastard though LOL. I think I paid 30 bucks for 2 spacers. Hell I paid less than $600 for my 19x11 wheels

Just sharing my experience.

 

[fatbillybob]

I'm going to take some flack for this, but I run the bolt-on type spacers (with studs) on track. I usually do 5-10 track days per year, but no actual racing. At first, I would check the lugs after every session, being a bit paranoid. Never once have I had a loose lug (torquing usually to 125lbs). I still check them occasionally and certainly before any track day, but that's just my experience. If I had more money to spend on the longer studs, and tracked more often, sure... longer studs is the better and safer thing to do.

I'm a cheap bastard though LOL. I think I paid 30 bucks for 2 spacers. Hell I paid less than $600 for my 19x11 wheels

Just sharing my experience.

Nope. You are right! The dynamics of wheel to hub is not the same as type 2 spacer to hub. Your setup is safer and better from a mechanical materials and forces standpoint. And yes those nuts on the type 2 spacer don't come loose if properly torqued. But the wheel to spacer or wheel to hub will loosen and that's why we torque after a track session. The best is type 2 like you and take wheel off and check torque. Racers are in a hurry and everything about a racer makes the type 1 spacer the right compromise. A pro racer would have the car engineered for hubs int he right place and wheels to match for the tires allowed.

 

[pgonza2723]

Yea I think part of the issue initially was me not giving enough background. So it seems like the easiest route at this point would be to use a Steeda 25mm spacer like initially linked until a bearing or whatnot goes out and can then look to install new hubs with extended studs. And for sure I can see this being a slippery slop....no different on the DR side of things. Lessons learned from there and setting realistic goals will help with not getting crazy as I go. I want to get to know the car at every step so I can learn the differences a particular set up makes. About about 2 years from the first getting to college so trying to scratch the itch without spending their college money....

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yea I think part of the issue initially was me not giving enough background. So it seems like the easiest route at this point would be to use a Steeda 25mm spacer like initially linked until a bearing or whatnot goes out and can then look to install new hubs with extended studs. And for sure I can see this being a slippery slop....no different on the DR side of things. Lessons learned from there and setting realistic goals will help with not getting crazy as I go. I want to get to know the car at every step so I can learn the differences a particular set up makes. About about 2 years from the first getting to college so trying to scratch the itch without spending their college money....

You don't need a new hub. the spacers aren't bad to put into an existing hubs. You do want a puller bearing or something to help with the install, but those are cheap.

 

[mavisky]

Easy to swap wheel studs on these cars. I'm funning F350 wheel studs and Apex Mustang specific wheel spacers.

This is the cheapest and easiest way to do it right.


https://www.apexraceparts.com/store/accessories/spacers/apex-mustang-spacer-kit.html

 

[EFI]

I'm funning F350 wheel studs

How much longer are those than stock?

 

[Flyhalf]

Best place to buy studs and spacer (and open lug nuts):
Opmustangs.com

I have the Gt4 style.

 

[mavisky]

How much longer are those than stock?

I don't know the exact measurements, but it works plenty fine for a 25mm spacer. Info came from this post.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/extended-stud-options.172209/post-3492314

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