Wheel spacer questions

[pgonza2723]

So I'm looking at what are good options. I'm picking up a set of Apex EC-7 ET52 18x11 wheels and am looking at 25mm spacer for the front. My plan is run these on the track and switch to SVE GT350 20x10 wheels for the street. My question is will something like:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-wheel-spacer-555-6611

Be safe to run on the track or is putting in extended studs the only way to go. I was liking the Steeda option as I could just take off the spacer when running on the street and put on the spacer during track days to fit the wheels and kind of get the best of both worlds. Any drawbacks to this? Thanks for any feedback!

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[Ewheels]

So I'm looking at what are good options. I'm picking up a set of Apex EC-7 ET52 18x11 wheels and am looking at 25mm spacer for the front. My plan is run these on the track and switch to SVE GT350 20x10 wheels for the street. My question is will something like:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-wheel-spacer-555-6611

Be safe to run on the track or is putting in extended studs the only way to go. I was liking the Steeda option as I could just take off the spacer when running on the street and put on the spacer during track days to fit the wheels and kind of get the best of both worlds. Any drawbacks to this? Thanks for any feedback!

Those Steeda ones will work fine for the street but the general understanding is that extended studs is the ONLY way to go for track use. The Steeda ones are just adding additional points of potential failure on track. Plus, could you imagine jacking up the car and taking all the wheels off so you can torque those spacer nuts before every session on track? Just get extended studs

Also, you can still remove slip on spacers for your street wheels. Just get open lug nuts for the extended studs to stick out

 

[AlbertD]

I'm running the CJ pony parts 1" slip on spacer (w/o studs) and ARP extended studs with those EC-7 18X11 wheels up front. Solid setup and then as Ewheels mentioned, you can simply run open ended lug nuts on the street. I have only heard bad things about those spacers with the studs integrated into them... I wouldn't even consider those for the street to be honest. You really don't want a wheel/stud failure going 100+. That could be a very bad day.

 

[pgonza2723]

What I figured but confirmation always good. What size extended studs did you all go with? I was hoping to get some that would stick out too much when running the SVE wheels.

 

[FreePenguin]

I have the Steeda 20mm hubecntric spacers on my mustang, but its just a DD no issues though

 

[fatbillybob]

Those Steeda ones will work fine for the street but the general understanding is that extended studs is the ONLY way to go for track use. The Steeda ones are just adding additional points of potential failure on track. Plus, could you imagine jacking up the car and taking all the wheels off so you can torque those spacer nuts before every session on track? Just get extended studs

Also, you can still remove slip on spacers for your street wheels. Just get open lug nuts for the extended studs to stick out

That's not how they work. Interestingly, what comes loose on track is the wheel to whatever it is on. That is the dynamics of wheel on hub. The type2 steeda spacers does not also loosen from the hub. Properly torqued the spacer to hub interface will stay torqued as well as any other fastener. There is a different dynamic here.

I use both type 2 and type 1 slip-on spacers. Each has its plus and minuses. The reason for type 1 slip-ons as track preferred is because of how racers use the car. A street drive will have 1 set of tires for 30,000 miles. A racer will change tires a couple times a weekend and change tire size if running multiple classes. For example I run 295 hoosier in T2 and 315 hoosier in T1. A 27mm spacer is needed to clear the coilovers for 295 and the 31mm are needed to clear for 315's. We racers also run longer studs because we like to run open nuts, might run different thickness wheels, and run different spacers so we do this for versatility. A street guy would look dorky with 2 more inches of stud that he needs. If you want the clean factory look you want the type 2 spacer with properly sized wheel studs. The type 2 spacer basically builds an extended hub. I have never had one of those nuts come loose in over 20 years of using them. If they came loose it would be dangerous and no one would sell them. However, I always torque my wheels after a track session.

Finally, type 2 spacers put more toque on the studs and can help them fail. That's why if you look at the OP spacers they are using the best stuff, the best ARP studs and very precise spacer machining, and hub centric spacers. OP took risk out of the type 1 spacer. Everything in life is a compromise.

If you look at what Vorschlag did they did not want to use spacers. Vorschlag made no compromise. They used Forgestar to make the right sized wheel. Many of us what to use a cheap groupbuy APEX wheel for $1200 bucks. It's a good hubcentric wheel but we have to kluge the offset with spacers to make them work.

 

[pgonza2723]

So would these be a good option? Seems easier to go this route than to get a press and install new studs:

https://lmr.com/item/M1104AB/15-17-mustang-front-wheel-hub-kit-ford-performance-m-1104-ab

assume it’s a pretty straight install since it comes with the abs rings on it?


Thanks again

 

[o-man]

If you look at what Vorschlag did they did not want to use spacers. Vorschlag made no compromise. They used Forgestar to make the right sized wheel. Many of us what to use a cheap groupbuy APEX wheel for $1200 bucks. It's a good hubcentric wheel but we have to kluge the offset with spacers to make them work.

No kluge. Apex makes a wheel in the correct offset to fit front without spacers. I believe most of us want to be able to rotate our tires instead of burning off the front pair over and over again

 

[fatbillybob]

So would these be a good option? Seems easier to go this route than to get a press and install new studs:

https://lmr.com/item/M1104AB/15-17-mustang-front-wheel-hub-kit-ford-performance-m-1104-ab

assume it’s a pretty straight install since it comes with the abs rings on it?


Thanks again

It will take way longer to replace the hubs than replace the studs. It takes about 30mins tops. I just did it a couple months ago. Air hammer out old draw in new with used bolts and deep socket with air tool. Hubs do not need to come off car.

You do realize if you go longer studs you need open nuts and you will see stud sticking out. Fine for racecar not a clean look for streetcar unless you also like the tow hook look on streetcars.

 

[pgonza2723]

It will take way longer to replace the hubs than replace the studs. It takes about 30mins tops. I just did it a couple months ago. Air hammer out old draw in new with used bolts and deep socket with air tool. Hubs do not need to come off car.

You do realize if you go longer studs you need open nuts and you will see stud sticking out. Fine for racecar not a clean look for streetcar unless you also like the tow hook look on streetcars.

Yea problem is I don't have air tools in my tool arsenal. It's on the list but kids and other things always get in the way....which is why I was thinking replacing the hubs would be the easiest way.

The car is a dual purpose one. I don't intend to make it a track only car so trying to find a good compromise for street and track duty. I for sure don't want to be chewing up my street tires on the track but at the same time I don't want to be running 18" wheels on the street full time with comp tires. Although the look is not ideal I figured might be the only option. This is my first rodeo with regards to having dedicated track wheels so this is why I'm looking for ideas. I know you said you've run the type 2 spacers on the track for years....I assume this is a pretty common practice for most guys out there?

 

[fatbillybob]

No I use type 2 on streetcars type 1 on race cars. It is about knowing your compromises. On the mustang I have 2 races on a type 2 steeda but went to type 1 for more versatility in wheels and tires because I race multiple classes

 

[fatbillybob]

Oh and changing wheels is a hassle. Any real dot-r tire is not streetable and not safe for the street and if used on street you waste them. The best dual use is make life easy consider the apex ec7 18x11 run square so you can move wheels around. Use spacers 25mm front for clearance. Use a 200twr tire for street and track and live with the compromise.

the apex will lower ride height too and are much lighter. Stock pp1 wheels are like 70lb ea and break your back and you want weight off the wheels for performance

 

[Flyhalf]

Opmustang.com
Sellsnthe best spacer in the market.
All the mustang guys racing or tracking use them. Great product. Light and resistant
Got the same combo for mine too.

 

[fatbillybob]

Yes op is the best I have seen and I also have them on my car. But they are +$100 more than the steeda type 2 then you add nuts and studs +$70.

Steeda type 2 is 70 bucks with studs and nuts. Racing always costs more money.

 

[pgonza2723]

Oh and changing wheels is a hassle. Any real dot-r tire is not streetable and not safe for the street and if used on street you waste them. The best dual use is make life easy consider the apex ec7 18x11 run square so you can move wheels around. Use spacers 25mm front for clearance. Use a 200twr tire for street and track and live with the compromise.

the apex will lower ride height too and are much lighter. Stock pp1 wheels are like 70lb ea and break your back and you want weight off the wheels for performance

So I think part of it is knowing realistically where I am with the hobby. For me I'm a long time Drag racer who's converted over auto-x then now to road course. So I have 5 on track sessions under my belt at this point. Will I get to the point where I will want to get into competing? Possibly, but not anytime in the near future. My goal is to track the car to enhance my driving skill and learn more about vehicle control, while learning more about the sport and etiquette overall. My other goal is to enjoy the car on the street as well. I do realize there are compromises on both sides, which is why I'm looking to find the right balance for where I'm at, while being as safe as possible.

For sure running squared is the intention. If I was buying a new set I probably would have gone with 18x10 to not worry about spacers, but couldn't pass up the deal on the EC-7 18x11's I got. I'm not worried about the pain of swapping wheels. I've got the SVE 20x10 GT350 wheels with PS4's which weigh in around 55lbs, so I've already dropped a decent amount of weight on the wheel side. Work and doing the Dad thing allows me to do about 1 track session a quarter so plenty of time to swap wheels and swapping brake pads as well (running Gloc GS-1 for street and R12's for track). The goal in my mind, is I was looking to run r88r with the EC-7 for track days that way it extend the life of my PS4's and allow me not to run the r88r on the street. At some point it would be nice to have a dedicated pony for tracking, but I'm not there yet. I appreciate your feedback.

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