Wheel options when handling is top consideration

[Applied Carbon]

I know a million threads have been posted and I've looked over so many of them, my head is spinning. Just want to start my own to help ease my mind. I have a 2022 GT that when the warranty is up i'm gonna toss a lot of suspension goodies plus power mods at. My end goal is to have a really TIGHT feeling street car with maybe a trip to the track once or twice in its life. I'd like it to feel as close (or even better) then GT350 (that my wife wouldn't let me get). So with all that said, what considerations should I keep in mind when wheel shopping? I once read that a staggered setup is worse for handling but every performance mustang has a staggered setup so I dunno how true that is.

Right now i'm leaning towards the SVE MHP1 10 in front and 11 for the back in gloss black. Being i'm going to lower the car at some point what size tires should I be looking at that for the SVE wheels? I plan to keep the factory 20 inch wheels for winter use (and once the warranty is over and the real mods start i'll get a beater for the winter and store the Stang). Also, on a side question, can I use OEM lug nuts for the SVE MHP1 wheels? I know they come with spline drive lugs but i'd rather get a set of factory black lugs.

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[MAGS1]

Lighter is better obviously. The factory wheels are heavy. I have a set of SVE wheels (20”) and I like them. Factory lugs won’t fit them though. They come with the spline lugs which are Gorilla brand, so good lugs. Gorilla also makes the narrower lugs (that fit aftermarket wheels) with the factory style so that is an option for you.

Apex makes a really nice wheel too, a little more limited on style options. Those seem to be 2 of the more popular brands here. Project 6GR is another option as well.

 

[Howitzer]

I always recommend a square setup. I run 305/30/19 on 11" wheels on track and I'm still more likely to understeer. Plus you can still rotate tires.

11" square takes a bit of work to make fit right...for street I'd recommend 10" wheels and run 285/35/19 (or 275/40/19).

As mags1 said...lighter is better. Full forged wheels/carbon wheels if you have tons of money to blow. Flow formed wheels (apex, mrr, sve, steeda, etc) are great options for durable and lighter than stock. Most aftermarket wheels will not take OEM lugs.

What is your starting point btw? Does your car have the performance package or are you starting at base?

 

[Applied Carbon]

I always recommend a square setup. I run 305/30/19 on 11" wheels on track and I'm still more likely to understeer. Plus you can still rotate tires.

11" square takes a bit of work to make fit right...for street I'd recommend 10" wheels and run 285/35/19 (or 275/40/19).

As mags1 said...lighter is better. Full forged wheels/carbon wheels if you have tons of money to blow. Flow formed wheels (apex, mrr, sve, steeda, etc) are great options for durable and lighter than stock. Most aftermarket wheels will not take OEM lugs.

What is your starting point btw? Does your car have the performance package or are you starting at base?

I'm starting with a base model. Wanted a PP but I couldn't find one with a stick local. Plan to bolt that Bullitt brake kit on to catch me up on brakes. You are not the first person to say go square, but would going 10 in front and 11 in back hurt my handling? I like the idea of running 11s all around but i'm not willing to run spacers.

 

[Dana Pants]

I'm starting with a base model. Wanted a PP but I couldn't find one with a stick local. Plan to bolt that Bullitt brake kit on to catch me up on brakes. You are not the first person to say go square, but would going 10 in front and 11 in back hurt my handling? I like the idea of running 11s all around but i'm not willing to run spacers.

Slip on spacers and arp studs are the way. I’m not aware of anyone having a failure due to this. And FYI I broke several OE rear studs without spacers due to cyclical loading at autocross.

 

[shogun32]

that when the warranty is up i'm gonna toss a lot of suspension goodies plus power mods at

You're gonna waste 3 years of your life for some crap warranty before you get a car that can handle?

Staggered is just for looks.

You can get et24 11" for up front. Since you're not going to the track, 10 sq is more than adequate

 

[MAGS1]

I agree with Matt, doing some suspension upgrades shouldn’t void your warranty unless they can prove the suspension pieces were the cause of any failure. If you want to keep it Ford, get the FP Track Handling Pack.

 

[jthompson473]

I know a million threads have been posted and I've looked over so many of them, my head is spinning. Just want to start my own to help ease my mind. I have a 2022 GT that when the warranty is up i'm gonna toss a lot of suspension goodies plus power mods at. My end goal is to have a really TIGHT feeling street car with maybe a trip to the track once or twice in its life. I'd like it to feel as close (or even better) then GT350 (that my wife wouldn't let me get). So with all that said, what considerations should I keep in mind when wheel shopping? I once read that a staggered setup is worse for handling but every performance mustang has a staggered setup so I dunno how true that is.

Right now i'm leaning towards the SVE MHP1 10 in front and 11 for the back in gloss black. Being i'm going to lower the car at some point what size tires should I be looking at that for the SVE wheels? I plan to keep the factory 20 inch wheels for winter use (and once the warranty is over and the real mods start i'll get a beater for the winter and store the Stang). Also, on a side question, can I use OEM lug nuts for the SVE MHP1 wheels? I know they come with spline drive lugs but i'd rather get a set of factory black lugs.

Arent the SVE wheels still above 30lbs per wheel? I just got some Rota's that are 22lbs each.

 

[LetItRide1978]

Arent the SVE wheels still above 30lbs per wheel? I just got some Rota's that are 22lbs each.

For the ones I’ve looked at, they are 24-25 pounds for 19 inch and 27-30 pounds for 20 inch.

 

[MAGS1]

Arent the SVE wheels still above 30lbs per wheel? I just got some Rota's that are 22lbs each.

23lbs for the MHP1

 

[NightmareMoon]

Those wheels would be fine, but I'd suggest doing 10" square instead of 10/11, because the balanc will be better and you can rotate wheels to even out wear since this is still mostly a street car.

The 11 in the back will just cause the car to understeer, which isn't something you want to fight against when trying to get the car to handle. Besides 10" wheel paired with a GOOD 285/35 tire (i.e. no the cheapest package option like the 555G2) gives plenty of linear grip.

If you want to be a crazy person and don't mind it darting all over, and you don't mind paying more for extended lugs and camber plates, you can do a 11" square setup.

Factory setups are almost all staggered, because Ford doesn't care about saving you tire money with rotatable square setup, and a setup with built in understeer is safer for noobs.

 

[2morrow]

If you’re not gonna track it that much I would do a 10 square as well with a GOOD tire. At least a MP4S. However if you want to rotate front to back you’ll need a spacer. That’s just how it is.

As stated on the other thread, tires and driver mod are the best mods followed closely by brakes.

As far as wheels go, just reduce as much weight as possible. You’ll notice an immediate improvement in feedback and agility. I would go for a spun-forged or similar marketed wheel (it’s all the same process where heat and pressure on the rollers strengthen the wheel). Apex, MRR, P6GR, etc

Note that is different than a fully forged wheel. If you have that kind of budget I would go for that (HRE, Forgeline, etc)

 

[Howitzer]

I'm starting with a base model. Wanted a PP but I couldn't find one with a stick local. Plan to bolt that Bullitt brake kit on to catch me up on brakes. You are not the first person to say go square, but would going 10 in front and 11 in back hurt my handling? I like the idea of running 11s all around but i'm not willing to run spacers.

I believe others have already answered this but a 10/11 setup will induce more understeer. For balanced (and tire longevity), go 10" square. We have a heavier front end, needs just as much meat as the rear.

And starting at a base...feel free to look at my build thread (I really need to update mine though) and txgt for ideas on what it takes coming from a base car. Obviously your goals may not be the same, but it'll give you some food for thought.

Overall I'd suggest full springs, shocks, struts, wheels, tires to start. Should be fine doing that under warranty.

 

[Applied Carbon]

Thanks for all the info, going to go with the 10 inch square setup for best possible feel. Going to wrap them with 285/35r19 with the MP4S or something like that.

I'm almost set on the SVE Mach 1 wheels. Really like the look of them but if anyone else knows of a good looking wheel I should look at i'm open to suggestions lol. I'm not in a rush, gonna run my stock 20 inch wheels in the winter anyways so i'll keep looking at styles but i'm set on the size. Might order the Bullitt brake kit this week though since i'm gonna want to get the calipers powder coated to match the body anyways.

Not sure about doing springs and struts while under warranty. My last car was a WRX and got into a mess when I bolted some stuff onto that and needed warranty work.

On a side note, as I understand it the APEX EC-7 can use factory lug nuts right? I know this sounds silly but I really like that big nut look on the factory rims.

 

[shogun32]

know this sounds silly but I really like that big nut look on the factory rims.

Yes very silly to use oe nuts. Take some time and look at every model offered by Gorilla. You will find similar.

I'm not saying tires aren't a fun first step, and you're welcome to experience the improvement they offer. But fixing the chassis and control are hot on their tail.

And I think Supercar3 are better than ps4s, unless you have a habit of drive in deep, standing water.

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