Weird issue, High Beams wont come on

[Blwnsmoke]

ya, i'm slowly confirming its the headlights. I replaced the bulbs as thats the cheapest option. still no high beam. any chance the ballast would cause it? i have a hard time thinking its the switch in the car as the turn signals all still work. I'm kinda baffled and not really wanting to take it in to ford to tell me what i think i already know lol. I wish the headlights wernt such a PITA to get out id swap one with a buddy and verify.

Definitely isn't the bulb as you are aware. The shutter is built into the lense so if it's not a fuse/relay, then it's either wiring or the headlights. It's very surprising that both would be doing this together

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[VuDoo350]

ya i also thought it was weird. unless they are connecting in some way where one goes, they both stop? Just strange everything else in the headlight seems to work perfect.

 

[Blwnsmoke]

I'm assuming you checked fuses 33, 35 and 68 in the larger panel?

What about fuse 20 in the smaller fuse block (headlamp control module)?

Lastly, if you pull on the stock, will it flash your high beams? Small chance but wonder if it's the stock/switch.

 

[VuDoo350]

checked all the fuses. all good. what do you mean pull on the stock? when i pull the flash lever nothing happens. forward or backwards.

 

[Blwnsmoke]

checked all the fuses. all good. what do you mean pull on the stock? when i pull the flash lever nothing happens. forward or backwards.

That's what I meant, pull it instead of push to see if it would react.

 

[VuDoo350]

ah gotcha.. .ya i did it all.. whats weird is the blue light on the dash to indicate theyre on doesnt even light up.

 

[Bikeman315]

ah gotcha.. .ya i did it all.. whats weird is the blue light on the dash to indicate theyre on doesnt even light up.

That‘s why it is reasonable to presume that the issue is electrical/switching and not the headlights themselves.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

That‘s why it is reasonable to presume that the issue is electrical/switching and not the headlights themselves.

Yep, 100% agree with this. You are getting awfully close to spending ALOT of money and time on new headlights that are probably not going to fix your problem. I bet that on a properly operating car, you can disconnect both headlamps and still have the blue dash symbol lighting up when you pull / press the lever. Can forscan show real time control module input data? I would really want to make sure the module is seeing the switch input. That would be my first step after the obvious fuse checks.

 

[VuDoo350]

all good points... sorry i'm a newb, what is FORScan? is this a dealership thing? I guess iw was more hoping it was a defective headlight vs having to tear into the steering column lol

 

[Blwnsmoke]

If you don't want to go the dealer route, I'd buy a new stock and replace it. I'd say it's worth the 1 hour of labor for them to diagnose it. It's going to save you a lot of time.

Chances are they will be able to plug in and know what's going on.

 

[Demonic]

Yep, 100% agree with this. You are getting awfully close to spending ALOT of money and time on new headlights that are probably not going to fix your problem. I bet that on a properly operating car, you can disconnect both headlamps and still have the blue dash symbol lighting up when you pull / press the lever. Can forscan show real time control module input data? I would really want to make sure the module is seeing the switch input. That would be my first step after the obvious fuse checks.

This is what I was going to suggest - the Forscan route. Forscan is a diy program that allows you to connect to the Ford electronic systems the same way a dealer does with their computer through the OBD port. It will allow you to run diagnostics on the control modules that control different parts of the car. Many times if there's an electronic issue that isn't crucial to the running of the car there can be a "soft code" thrown by the module. Forscan would allow you to see this. You can read up on the Forscan website and also on the forum about how to use it and determine if it's something you feel comfortable undertaking. Otherwise you can have a dealer connect their computer and see if there are any soft codes or issues with the module. I don't know anything about the light control module on our cars, but a module can have its own relays inside that could fail and not be visible on the main fuse/relay box.

 

[VuDoo350]

Anyone have a link to the right one? Im seeing a few choices.

 

[Bikeman315]

Anyone have a link to the right one? Im seeing a few choices.

This model has been recommended on this forum many times. Not the cheapest but I guess you get what you pay for.

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Blue...&qid=1658802239&sprefix=obd+mx,aps,104&sr=8-1

 

[K4fxd]

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-EX-F...f4-8472-9103c410485e&pd_rd_i=B081VQVD3F&psc=1

 

[Bikeman315]

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-EX-F...f4-8472-9103c410485e&pd_rd_i=B081VQVD3F&psc=1

+1. Unless you specifically want/need wireless operation this is the one and costs a lot less.

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