Track Alignment Setting

[GTIIIL]

Just doing the camber plates, wheels and tires, and spacers. Wanted to make sure the tires wouldn’t rub before the alignment was done. Thanks to all.

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[Norm Peterson]

However, I would be curious to hear the explanation for how toe-out in front causes over-steer.

Maybe having the inside tire trying to drag the outside tire into the turn instead of opposing it has something to do with it.

But at that point you really need to look at Ackermann correction geometry and bumpsteer curves as well. Have to think in terms of "3D dynamic toe" here, not just a 2D static setting.


Norm

 

[Norm Peterson]

even if you were using camber bolts maxed out you shouldn't hit the strut, IF you used camber bolts in both upper and lower holes though, then it may be an issue, but if you just use camber plates, the tire to strut clearance won't change with camber, it only changes w/ the offset/width of your wheels which in your case would be 1mm less than stock, not an issue at all.

as stated above, the wheels don't affect alignment, so it won't matter what wheels you have on when they align it.

Wheels don't affect alignment per se. But they can limit how much negative camber is physically achievable. Unusually wide wheels with offsets chosen to stuff as much tire as possible into the wheel well without having to make fender mods is the most demanding situation I can think of.

Mostly because I've been there with my S197. Less than 1.5mm tire or wheel to strut clearance, no rubbing even on track. No room whatsoever for further negative camber with anybody's camber bolts.

Norm

 

[jmn444]

Wheels don't affect alignment per se. But they can limit how much negative camber is physically achievable. Unusually wide wheels with offsets chosen to stuff as much tire as possible into the wheel well without having to make fender mods is the most demanding situation I can think of.

Mostly because I've been there with my S197. Less than 1.5mm tire or wheel to strut clearance, no rubbing even on track. No room whatsoever for further negative camber with anybody's camber bolts.

Norm

agreed, but not with the setup the guy is asking about.

 

[honeybadger]

Suggest 31mm spacer with r length studs if going square

 

[Tonymustang302]

Suggest 31mm spacer with r length studs if going square

or the GT4 studs from opmustang

 

[Norm Peterson]

agreed, but not with the setup the guy is asking about.

Intended as general information on how wheels can affect camber adjustability. As wheels are made wider, camber adjustment options become restricted.


Norm

 

[MandoGt350R]

What is the stock caster number?

 

[Norm Peterson]

What is the stock caster number?

Post #27?

Found this as well.

Norm

 

[MandoGt350R]

My apologies but, what size is the cigarette switch inside the center consol? I need to put a switch in there. I know it’s off topic.

 

[GTIIIL]

Suggest 31mm spacer with r length studs if going square

Sorry for the long delayed question (insert standard Covid delay excuse here), but why do you recommend a wider spacer-31MM vs. the standard 25MM spacer? I am just getting to all of this and forgot to ask when this thread was new. Thanks.

 

[honeybadger]

Sorry for the long delayed question (insert standard Covid delay excuse here), but why do you recommend a wider spacer-31MM vs. the standard 25MM spacer? I am just getting to all of this and forgot to ask when this thread was new. Thanks.

Two reasons. A 31mm gives you a bit more breathing room to run a wider front tire (315 fits easily). Second, it looks better

 

[GTIIIL]

Ah, poser points for the pit area, got it. Actually, going to run 305's so may not need the additional clearance, and have already purchased the R hubs. TY for the response.

 

[honeybadger]

Not sure I’d call it poser points. There are definitely other benefits - wider front track, etc. The other thing I’d highlight is that it just gives you more flexibility. Some tires run wide (305 GY 3R is as wide as a 315 Cup2), add more camber without having strut issues, bump up to a wider wheel in the future, etc.

25mm w/ 315 Hoosiers

31mm with 305s and moar camber (which results in better wear and grip)

Besides, the R hubs you bought are perfect for the 31mm spacer from Tim at OP Mustang.

 

[Tomster]

I’ve attached a screenshot of the settings from the owners supplement. The only additional thing I’ll add is, usually more negative camber is better (to an extent.)

If you’ve never tracked the car, I recommend starting off with the factory recommended track settings.

Once you get a feel for the car with those settings, then maybe start adjusting the camber as needed.

With the factory camber plates, maxing out the front camber should net you somewhere in the 2.2-2.6 range (for an R). The rear camber number is ok, but you could stand to add a little more negative camber also. It seems like this car likes -3.0 in the front, and -2.4 in the back. IF…… you can get that. Usually it takes a camber bolt for the front. Also attached is my last alignment for reference.

You saved me a lot of writing.

However I will say that one of those laser alignment machines is only as accurate as the setup/operator/calibration.

I align my own car using a string alignment method. That's how the race teams do it.

Balls on.

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