Thoughts on my alignment specs?

[NeedForGreen]

Had my car dropped an inch with steeda springs. Had shocks/ struts changed, camber plates added, etc..

The place I went to is well known around here. He said he likes to max out the rears for better traction. Said as long as I'm not racing taking corners going 100 what he gave me is good for street and what he recommends.
Only problem is now I have some wheel poke with my spacers, but am getting new wheels and plan to ditch the spacers.

The before specs were off course after I had the suspension changed so my fronts were definitely off.

I don't even know what steedas recommended specs are.

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[Brian@BMVK]

Unless this is a drag focused car, I'd get another 0.7 deg of rear camber added. The rest looks fine.

 

[Southview]

That is great for our Florida roads.

 

[Dominant1]

My drag centric performance alignment:

https://ibb.co/GpTxCmF

 

[Grimreaper]

Unless this is a drag focused car, I'd get another 0.7 deg of rear camber added. The rest looks fine.

Iirc there is a reason we want more negative camber or at least the same as the front with an irs. I can't recall why though. Thought it was something with high speed stability like if a sudden lane change or turn had to be made etc.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Iirc there is a reason we want more negative camber or at least the same as the front with an irs. I can't recall why though. Thought it was something with high speed stability like if a sudden lane change or turn had to be made etc.

When the car rolls, the tire loses more camber than it gains via the length and angle of the suspension member-determined geometry. This means that you need to have a decent amount of static negative camber to avoid going into positive camber during roll. If you don't have at least -1 deg (-1.2-1.4 better) you'll get into positive camber just in somewhat spirited driving. The consequence of that is usually much more unpredictable handling as you're rolling onto the tire sidewall.

For handling applications with grippy tires, -1.8-2.0 deg is often typical, as the level of grip and body roll is higher, in addition to the fact that tires produce more lateral grip when they have some negative camber angle with respect to the road rather than zero.

 

[Grimreaper]

When the car rolls, the tire loses more camber than it gains via the length and angle of the suspension member-determined geometry. This means that you need to have a decent amount of static negative camber to avoid going into positive camber during roll. If you don't have at least -1 deg (-1.2-1.4 better) you'll get into positive camber just in somewhat spirited driving. The consequence of that is usually much more unpredictable handling as you're rolling onto the tire sidewall.

For handling applications with grippy tires, -1.8-2.0 deg is often typical, as the level of grip and body roll is higher, in addition to the fact that tires produce more lateral grip when they have some negative camber angle with respect to the road rather than zero.

I always enjoy and appreciate the why and thorough explanation. Thank you!

 

[Flyhalf]

For street driving
As brian said
Little more camber in the rear.
Note
Toe is what kills tires.
I would reduce overall toe if is street use only

 

[NeedForGreen]

Thanks everyone. I ended up having to take my car to Steeda because of a faulty camber plate. They did a realignment alignment there for the front.

 

[thebaldlatino5.0]

So I recently put a new set up on over the weekend. Going from stock performance pack wheels with Pirellis(255/275/40/19), to nitto invo tires and SVE R350 wheels. Specs are 19x10/11, on 285/35/19 fronts and 325/30/19 rears.

My alignment I got done back in May was for the performance pack wheel set up.

Front:
Camber: -1.2DR/-1.0PR
Caster: 6.9DR/7.0PR
Toe: -0.01DR/-0.01PR
Total Toe: -0.03
Steer Ahead: 0.00

Rear:
Camber: -1.7DR/-1.3PR
Toe: 0.13DR/0.14PR
Total Toe: 0.27
Thrust Angle: -0.01

Now the rear tires do sit evenly on both sides in the way of poking out. Roughly a finger tip. EVENLY. Secondly, I do have the IRS alignment dowels to install as well. Not sure if that's any help. If I need to install those to have the perfect alignment, please send suggestions or tips on how to do it. I've tried, and its barely off. But couldn't get it centered properly enough.

Just don't know if i'm gonna need an alignment, as I've heard different answers from anyone I ask.

Any comments, suggestions, thoughts, would be greatly appreciated. Especially on how to install the IRS alignment kit from Steeda.

 

[Dominant1]

When you install the cradle alignment bushings you will have to get the car aligned again. When you install them remove and replace one side at a time. Steeda’s kit tend to be longer then you need and may have to be cut. Bmr’s are at the perfect length and $10 cheaper.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

For a street only car, the only thing I'd get adjusted is rear camber. Closer to -1.4-1.5 on each side.

 

[NeedForGreen]

So I recently put a new set up on over the weekend. Going from stock performance pack wheels with Pirellis(255/275/40/19), to nitto invo tires and SVE R350 wheels. Specs are 19x10/11, on 285/35/19 fronts and 325/30/19 rears.

My alignment I got done back in May was for the performance pack wheel set up.

Front:
Camber: -1.2DR/-1.0PR
Caster: 6.9DR/7.0PR
Toe: -0.01DR/-0.01PR
Total Toe: -0.03
Steer Ahead: 0.00

Rear:
Camber: -1.7DR/-1.3PR
Toe: 0.13DR/0.14PR
Total Toe: 0.27
Thrust Angle: -0.01

Now the rear tires do sit evenly on both sides in the way of poking out. Roughly a finger tip. EVENLY. Secondly, I do have the IRS alignment dowels to install as well. Not sure if that's any help. If I need to install those to have the perfect alignment, please send suggestions or tips on how to do it. I've tried, and its barely off. But couldn't get it centered properly enough.

Just don't know if i'm gonna need an alignment, as I've heard different answers from anyone I ask.

Any comments, suggestions, thoughts, would be greatly appreciated. Especially on how to install the IRS alignment kit from Steeda.

If you want street go with - 1.5. If you want better traction in the back, better take off and better tire wear go less like the alignment place I went to did.
As long as you aren't going around corners going 90 the specs I got are good. I actually feel more planted. I don't track. The guy who did mine spent a good time with me explaining numbers.
I had the Steeda bushings put in. No issues, but should definitely check the alignment after.

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