The how much oil is your Voodoo using thread.

[Minn19]

i have 600 miles on my new car. Oil level is consistent. I know the drivers side venting is suppose to have more oil in it on these cars, but right now it has none, and the passenger side has oil in it. Guess i need two oil catch cans

After 4000 miles and one Auto X, I've never had any oil in my drivers side catch can. I've emptied the passenger side twice and both times it had roughly an 1/8 of an inch of oil in it.

I believe the drivers side will only get oil in it after tracking the car fairly hard, but the passenger side will have oil in it from normal driving.

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[Zombo]

i have 600 miles on my new car. Oil level is consistent. I know the drivers side venting is suppose to have more oil in it on these cars, but right now it has none, and the passenger side has oil in it. Guess i need two oil catch cans

No, I think the passenger side has more oil venting, driver side has none, or much less, depending upon the driving.

My car has 750 miles, oil level is fine and the oil looks clean, from the dip stick.

 

[Sammy]

I am getting concerned. The oil was changed 220 miles ago with Amsoil 5-50, 10 quarts. It was checked after the change and was right at the top of the dipstick full line. This picture is where it is now with a hot engine. The car is running strong, no leaks of any kind. The oil pressure is 80psi at idle, 100psi at 4000 RPM when warm.

I was gentle breaking in the car, taking local back roads with on and off throttle bringing it up and down the RPM range. Never seen a track, just mildly spirited driving without any tickets to prove it.

What is going on?

 

[8WOOD]

The old 5.0 had the same issue. If just takes a while to break in. I know it sounds silly but after 3000-5000 miles my old 5.0 stopped burning so much oil.

 

[nastang87xx]

I was gentle breaking in the car

At 200 miles I brought mine to autocross and beat it like it owed me money. Uhh, my car. Not my.......nevermind.

 

[Deranged1]

I am getting concerned. The oil was changed 220 miles ago with Amsoil 5-50, 10 quarts. It was checked after the change and was right at the top of the dipstick full line. This picture is where it is now with a hot engine. The car is running strong, no leaks of any kind. The oil pressure is 80psi at idle, 100psi at 4000 RPM when warm.

I was gentle breaking in the car, taking local back roads with on and off throttle bringing it up and down the RPM range. Never seen a track, just mildly spirited driving without any tickets to prove it.

What is going on?

Wow! She is thirsty! I would be concerned as well.

 

[Optimum Performance]

Modern engines use a light ring package, recirculate a large amount of oil via the PCV system (even with catch cans). If you borescope the engine you will see large Carbon deposits. You have 8 large bore cylinders worth of deposits so oil consumption will be more apparent. All normal. You will have high consumption at low street miles. The vacuum signal is very strong during street driving due to being off the throttle (closed) almost constantly.
Everytime you run up the rpm and Back off the throttle the vacuum spikes, the rings unseat and oil is consumed.

A large capacity catch can on both sides, helps. When you only run a breather on one side you actually will get more through the other side due to the restriction from the can and no restriction on the other side, that vacuum signal is stronger. A large volume intake pipe ahead of a throttle body (restriction) will cause massive signal spikes which pulls in a ton more oil from the drivers side valve cover.

It's why we are adding a second one to our GT, we only ran the passenger side and upon borescope inspection one cylinder on the driver side had oil running down the intake port. When we tested a PMAS intake in July 2015 on track the PCV hose fell out of the rubber grommet due to the oil, the MAF filled with oil that made it to the air filter.

Street driving=Oil Consumption
Best break-in procedure We can recommend is to beat on the engine from day one, hard acceleration pulls. Track days are the best break in procedure unless you own a dyno. Our car never uses a drop of oil during a track day, only after constant street driving, when it was brand new it used a qt in the first thousand miles.
Industrial engines are broken in at full load, they are ramped up, tuned and left there. They consume oil when left to idle (no load)or run at partial load.

The baby-ing break in procedures everyone uses with oil consumption as a result is a constant thread. The guys that don't experience oil consumption drive it like they stole it off the lot.
A brand new engine will never be as good as it is when new. Breaking it in over a long period of time just extends the time before an issue comes up. Rumor has it that there may be some Ford tuning in the ECM already that aids break in. Also not a fan of draining OEM factory fill oil for a few thousand miles or a track day. I don't know if they add break-in supplements at the factory.
It's under warranty, it has a rev limiter, break it in properly by trying to break it.

Edit: Full synthetic will take longer for engine break in.
Second Edit: Shelly's have a very short skirt piston(why Ford has the service bulletin for piston knock) the piston will rock in the bore under lightly loaded conditions causing the rings not to sit square to the bore. This will cause additional oil consumption. This does not cause harm, this is also normal. Keep in mind these engines are constructed in the same manner and have output levels that full on race engines did 10 years ago. It is amazing this is a "mass produced" engine with a warranty.

 

[Optimum Performance]

I am getting concerned. The oil was changed 220 miles ago with Amsoil 5-50, 10 quarts. It was checked after the change and was right at the top of the dipstick full line. This picture is where it is now with a hot engine. The car is running strong, no leaks of any kind. The oil pressure is 80psi at idle, 100psi at 4000 RPM when warm.

I was gentle breaking in the car, taking local back roads with on and off throttle bringing it up and down the RPM range. Never seen a track, just mildly spirited driving without any tickets to prove it.

What is going on?

Let me borrow your car for a weekend....

Also how are you guys checking the oil? You'd be surprised, Caterpillar actually wrote a service bulletin on how to check oil.
Engine off for 10 minutes, pull the stick, wipe it, put it back in for about a minute, then check it. ON LEVEL Ground. Always look on both sides of the stick and the highest level is the level.

Also how many checked the oil off the lot? Or did you check it after driving it? Do you know it was full when you picked it up.

Shelly's hold 10 qts, GT's 8. A qt is not alarming in a system this large.

 

[dron_jones]

Modern engines use a light ring package, recirculate a large amount of oil via the PCV system (even with catch cans). If you borescope the engine you will see large Carbon deposits. You have 8 large bore cylinders worth of deposits so oil consumption will be more apparent. All normal. You will have high consumption at low street miles. The vacuum signal is very strong during street driving due to being off the throttle (closed) almost constantly.
Everytime you run up the rpm and Back off the throttle the vacuum spikes, the rings unseat and oil is consumed.

A large capacity catch can on both sides, helps. When you only run a breather on one side you actually will get more through the other side due to the restriction from the can and no restriction on the other side, that vacuum signal is stronger. A large volume intake pipe ahead of a throttle body (restriction) will cause massive signal spikes which pulls in a ton more oil from the drivers side valve cover.

It's why we are adding a second one to our GT, we only ran the passenger side and upon borescope inspection one cylinder on the driver side had oil running down the intake port. When we tested a PMAS intake in July 2015 on track the PCV hose fell out of the rubber grommet due to the oil, the MAF filled with oil that made it to the air filter.

Street driving=Oil Consumption
Best break-in procedure We can recommend is to beat on the engine from day one, hard acceleration pulls. Track days are the best break in procedure unless you own a dyno. Our car never uses a drop of oil during a track day, only after constant street driving, when it was brand new it used a qt in the first thousand miles.
Industrial engines are broken in at full load, they are ramped up, tuned and left there. They consume oil when left to idle (no load)or run at partial load.

The baby-ing break in procedures everyone uses with oil consumption as a result is a constant thread. The guys that don't experience oil consumption drive it like they stole it off the lot.
A brand new engine will never be as good as it is when new. Breaking it in over a long period of time just extends the time before an issue comes up. Rumor has it that there may be some Ford tuning in the ECM already that aids break in. Also not a fan of draining OEM factory fill oil for a few thousand miles or a track day. I don't know if they add break-in supplements at the factory.
It's under warranty, it has a rev limiter, break it in properly by trying to break it.

Thanks for this post. As someone who is picking up their car on Monday the break in has been something that has been keeping me up. The more i read, the more conflicting information i find, but that being said as i read this thread i just kept wondering if there would be a correlation between the break in procedures people are using and the amount of oil their engines are consuming.

 

[Optimum Performance]

Thanks for this post. As someone who is picking up their car on Monday the break in has been something that has been keeping me up. The more i read, the more conflicting information i find, but that being said as i read this thread i just kept wondering if there would be a correlation between the break in procedures people are using and the amount of oil their engines are consuming.

Breaking in procedures will not harm the engine, it will just take longer the easier it is driven. I understand the concern on a large investment and oil disappearing on the stick but in most cases completely normal. Modern machining and assembly the stuff is pretty bullet proof. That said someone will have a failed part, because parts fail.

 

[Minn19]

Breaking in procedures will not harm the engine, it will just take longer the easier it is driven. I understand the concern on a large investment and oil disappearing on the stick but in most cases completely normal. Modern machining and assembly the stuff is pretty bullet proof. That said someone will have a failed part, because parts fail.

I broke mine in according to the manual, but definitely on the much more aggressive side of the spectrum. I have no leaks and a lot of oil usage.

Thanks for you post and especially the part about hard on the throttle and then off. This describes how I've driven the car quite a bit in spirited backroad driving and one Auto X. It could just be a characteristic of the motor and it is what it is.

 

[Optimum Performance]

I broke mine in according to the manual, but definitely on the much more aggressive side of the spectrum. I have no leaks and a lot of oil usage.

Thanks for you post and especially the part about hard on the throttle and then off. This describes how I've driven the car quite a bit in spirited backroad driving and one Auto X. It could just be a characteristic of the motor and it is what it is.

It usually gets much better with time.

 

[BlkGT3]

At 200 miles I brought mine to autocross and beat it like it owed me money. Uhh, my car. Not my.......nevermind.

Wimp :lol: mine had 138 miles.

Peter

 

[GT_Dave]

I don't think comparing the 5.2 to the 5.0 setup for break-in and oil consumption is very valid. The 5.2 Voodoo engine has much lighter ring tension, which may take longer for the rings to set. It also has plasma coated aluminum cylinder bores as compared to the cast iron bores of the 5.0, which will take longer to break in. I also don't think that checking your oil level after 200-300 miles will give you an accurate reference, as stated above there are variables that can be introduced when and how you check your oil level. Keep checking over 3000-4000 miles and keep track of your results. I think you will find the consistency in the trend on your data to jump around quite a bit.

 

[Julio]

Let me borrow your car for a weekend....

Also how are you guys checking the oil? You'd be surprised, Caterpillar actually wrote a service bulletin on how to check oil.
Engine off for 10 minutes, pull the stick, wipe it, put it back in for about a minute, then check it. ON LEVEL Ground. Always look on both sides of the stick and the highest level is the level.

Also how many checked the oil off the lot? Or did you check it after driving it? Do you know it was full when you picked it up.

Shelly's hold 10 qts, GT's 8. A qt is not alarming in a system this large.

Surprized to read that the highest level is the right one.
I've actually specifically asked 2 mechanics about that (my dealer and another one during a road trip), we checked the level together, and they both said that it should be the lower level.
It seemed to make sense to me because the other side of the stick seems to be receiving oil randomly, due to the motion you do to flex the stick to pull it.
Indeed, the lower level is the same every time (if you read the level quickly enough after pulling the stick), and the highest vary each time...
I've never been so confused when checking an engine oil before....

Mine has used around 1liter over the last 3000 km, which seems ok but still something to be checked very regularly (therefore the concern over the difficult -at least for me- oil level checking procedure).

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