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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

StangTime

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This shows it playing with the car in accessory mode
In that last video on acc mode, is there any bass coming from the sub? I don't hear it but your phone won't record bass very well.
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19gtMD

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Yes there was. It was playing perfectly. The phone doesnt record the bass that well i guess. But yes it was on and playing like it should
 

Mike Pfeifer

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This looks like an intermittent connection that is having an issue possibly due to engine vibration. If this car was in my shop, that’s what I’d be looking at.
 

StangTime

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Yes there was. It was playing perfectly. The phone doesnt record the bass that well i guess. But yes it was on and playing like it should
Ok good. Let me know if the acc voltage is dropping out or staying on when the car is running. I have a feeling it is staying at 12V.

My suspicion is pointing to the battery or the connections there. Verify they are good and tight and that the ring terminal has a clean bare surface for good current flow.

Do you know for sure the dealer actually put in a new battery? Or they just said they did? Dealers are about as truthful as politicians in my book.
 

19gtMD

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Now that you remind me. I will definately check when i do my multimeter check. Yeah they told me they changed it, but what i didnt see was a date sticker on it. I will update tonight when i get off work. I cant even go out there right now i might kick a whole in something....
 

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19gtMD

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So i should be looking for the volts to change at the battery when the car is on from 12 to around 14 with the car running. With the same reading at the back, because what your saying is you have the feeling at the back its still gonna read 12.. right?
 

StangTime

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Now that you remind me. I will definately check when i do my multimeter check. Yeah they told me they changed it, but what i didnt see was a date sticker on it. I will update tonight when i get off work. I cant even go out there right now i might kick a whole in something....
I can understand your frustration man.

So i should be looking for the volts to change at the battery when the car is on from 12 to around 14 with the car running. With the same reading at the back, because what your saying is you have the feeling at the back its still gonna read 12.. right?
I can't say for sure what the voltage would be, but at the sub if you can measure on the yellow wire, I am willing to bet there is some change in voltage as the amp starts to deplete it's power source.

As I said in another post, check the connections at the battery. This is a classic example of a bad battery/bad connection.
 

m3incorp

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You can always run it up to the fuse box in the passenger footwell. I think it is fuse 21 that most use. Use a multimeter and find a fuse that does NOT have constant power.

Ok i have read through this and i have not seen where anyone is experiencing what i am, unless i missed it. but im almost at my wits end trying to figure this out. My problem is my remote wire. I have done just about everything i have read in here from tapping the sub fuse in the passenger side fuse box, to the blue/white wire in the harness in the trunk, to the power window fuse. The problem im having is it works only in accessory. I turn my car on and start driving and 3 minutes into the drive it starts to flicker. Sometimes going out completely then intermittently cut on and off. What can i do. Is there a harness thats plug and play for the GT premium with 9 speaker system. I do not have a factory sub. Im using a pioneer all in one speaker and amp set up. PLEASE RADIO GURUS HELP A POOR SOLE!!!
 

19gtMD

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You can always run it up to the fuse box in the passenger footwell. I think it is fuse 21 that most use. Use a multimeter and find a fuse that does NOT have constant power.
Its fuse 23.. Thanks for the input. Well after i got home i used the multimeter at the battery and the sub. The power is there. The battery was in fact new. So im at a loss. I have a good power source read 12v and both ends with the car off. Read 15v at both ends with the battery on, and light flickering at the sub. So there was no loss in power. Read my speaker signal and was reading 7v with the car on and 6v with car off. Was getting 0 at the remote wire with the car off, and was getting 15v with the car on and flickering at the sub. At this point im almost chalking it up to my sub and amp must be shit...
 

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19gtMD

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sorry for the crappy vid quality i was using my phone i dont have a go pro or tripod.
 

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Your speaker input wires are solidly connected yeah? Some amps will detect a high level input and automatically turn on and off, that overrides the remote wire.
 

StangTime

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15V when the engine is running seems a bit high. But from what I've read about the smart charging system, it can does get that high under certain conditions.
BUT... was your battery was replaced recently?
There is a BMS reset procedure that can be performed after the battery is changed. Maybe the shop didn't do that? Maybe it doesn't matter but it can do weird things with the charging system.
It can be done easily. Here are the steps and it's worth a shot before you pull all your hair out.

Do this under 10 seconds:
  1. Switch ignition on (engine off)
  2. Pull and release high beam 5 times.
  3. Press and release brake pedal 3 times.
  4. If successful the battery light will flash 3 times within the next 15 seconds.
  5. BMS reset completed.
Test your sub again.
 
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19gtMD

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Your speaker input wires are solidly connected yeah? Some amps will detect a high level input and automatically turn on and off, that overrides the remote wire.
Yes the speaker wires are solidly connected. Also the sub has a high level switch and low level switch. Because it has speaker wire leads and RCA outputs. I cycled the switch just for the sake of checking and when switched to rca the sound stops, and when switched to speaker wire it does work as long as its in accessory mode. Ok guys i thank you all for your help in this matter. I think im gonna get rid of this set up and eventually go to a classic amp and separate sub with LOC and rca inputs. I just am at wits end trying to solve this on my own. I just get this suspicion its the amp in this ordeal.
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