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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

19gtMD

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Made no difference. Its literally the remote signal. I just wired it to a constant 12v fuse which made the light stay on the whole time. And same thing happens, turn car on it goes out
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StangTime

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Made no difference. Its literally the remote signal. I just wired it to a constant 12v fuse which made the light stay on the whole time. And same thing happens, turn car on it goes out
So you're saying you connected the remote lead to a solid 12V source and the amp will stay on until you start the car?
 

19gtMD

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Man i wish i could show you the video so you could see. But i hooked it to a 12v and the light on the sub in on even when the car is off. But when i turn the car on it goes intermittent ( flashing on and off but not constant like it was without the car on)
 

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Man i wish i could show you the video so you could see. But i hooked it to a 12v and the light on the sub in on even when the car is off. But when i turn the car on it goes intermittent ( flashing on and off but not constant like it was without the car on)
That doesn't sound like a 12v switched ignition source. What year Mustang? I had to pick a different fuse location because it changed in 2020. Nvm, saw it is 2019. Is the amp turning on and off as you drive around and not going into protect mode?
 

StangTime

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Man i wish i could show you the video so you could see. But i hooked it to a 12v and the light on the sub in on even when the car is off. But when i turn the car on it goes intermittent ( flashing on and off but not constant like it was without the car on)
That sounds like your amp isn't getting enough current or voltage. How do you have it connected to the battery? How is the amp grounded? It should be grounded to bare metal. Is your battery ok? The batteries in our cars are pure crap and don't last more than 3 years with daily usage.
 

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19gtMD

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That doesn't sound like a 12v switched ignition source. What year Mustang? I had to pick a different fuse location because it changed in 2020. Nvm, saw it is 2019. Is the amp turning on and off as you drive around and not going into protect mode?
No its not going into protect mode. Its just dropping the remote signal. I have used the multimeter and the power is there. I have it grounded to the back seat bench bolt to the frame. It positively the remote wire.
 

19gtMD

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That sounds like your amp isn't getting enough current or voltage. How do you have it connected to the battery? How is the amp grounded? It should be grounded to bare metal. Is your battery ok? The batteries in our cars are pure crap and don't last more than 3 years with daily usage.
I have the power on the battery positive with a 30 amp fuse in between. The battery was new as of my purchase that was something the dealer did to give me piece of mind.
 

StangTime

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Ok. Next question is how did you attach the ring terminal to the battery post? Your amp is shutting down. Not your remote wire. I saw the video.
 

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19gtMD

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This is a longer video so you can see the flicker. The blue light comes on when the remote signal is detected.
 

19gtMD

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Ok. Next question is how did you attach the ring terminal to the battery post? Your amp is shutting down. Not your remote wire. I saw the video.
So are you meaning that as in the amp "is" going into protect mode. As if its getting too much power? or something else? I did just look and the speaker doesnt have a protect light at all. Just the light that shows the remote is active and all is powered.
 

StangTime

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So are you meaning that as in the amp "is" going into protect mode. As if its getting too much power? or something else? I did just look and the speaker doesnt have a protect light at all. Just the light that shows the remote is active and all is powered.
More likely the amp is not getting enough current and simply turning off. When the amp turns off do you still have +12V on the remote wire? Keep your meter connected and watch what happens when the amp shuts off.

You can have voltage with almost zero current flowing in a conductor. The amp needs both current and voltage to operate. Think of it as a water hose. The current is the amount of water flowing through it and the voltage is the water pressure. If the hose is choked or folded so that the flow is restricted, there will be no flow and just a dribble. Equate that to a power wire. Somewhere at your connection point to the power source there is a "restriction" or insulation preventing the current from flowing freely to the amp. Check the battery terminal and the fuse block. The battery terminal has a black protective coating on some of the surfaces that act as an insulator. If you mounted the ring terminal to a surface with no good electrical connection, that can limit the current flow.
 

19gtMD

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More likely the amp is not getting enough current and simply turning off. When the amp turns off do you still have +12V on the remote wire? Keep your meter connected and watch what happens when the amp shuts off.

You can have voltage with almost zero current flowing in a conductor. The amp needs both current and voltage to operate. Think of it as a water hose. The current is the amount of water flowing through it and the voltage is the water pressure. If the hose is choked or folded so that the flow is restricted, there will be no flow. Somewhere at your connection point to the power source there is a "restriction" or insulation prevent the current from flowing freely to the amp. Check the battery terminal and the fuse block.
Ok im gonna try and check to see what i read with the car on. Ill check both the positive and the remote to see if the volts change
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