Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[B1GG1MP1N]

I considered using the HRN AR FO3 harness but decided to use StangTime's design except mine has RCA connectors into the DSP. Its all working fine.

where would I find the stangtime design? I googled but found nothing.
Thanks for the info

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[B1GG1MP1N]

All this is way passed my pay grade.

I am starting to feel the same way. I did all my own work in my 07 GT and my 04 Mach 1 but did it all with replacement head units so it was all very simple audio swaps.

 

[Cathul]

No CEL, just a code when you read the DTCs via OBD2.

 

[B1GG1MP1N]

No CEL, just a code when you read the DTCs via OBD2.

Thanks I know some of these are stupid questions but my knowledge is limited on these new OEM head units with built in amps etc.

 

[Matti777]

All this is way passed my pay grade.

Building your own harness is not easy. I never did find a proper pic of the Maestro harness to see how much time and effort it would save.

 

[20ducks]

All I want to do is put either low signal lines to an amp then to a sub box with sub (dual 4 Ohm) OR take the existing connections from the B&O sub to LOC to an amp to a sub box with an aftermarket sub.

 

[Matti777]

All I want to do is put either low signal lines to an amp then to a sub box with sub (dual 4 Ohm) OR take the existing connections from the B&O sub to LOC to an amp to a sub box with an aftermarket sub.

The latter would be simpler as you are not touching the amp or wiring up front.

 

[B1GG1MP1N]

Building your own harness is not easy. I never did find a proper pic of the Maestro harness to see how much time and effort it would save.

Yeah I guess that is why I’m surprised someone doesn’t already have a ‘plug and play’ harness (for the 9 speaker system) for dummies like me to throw $250+ at to make it an easier process.

 

[StangTime]

where would I find the stangtime design? I googled but found nothing.
Thanks for the info

@B1GG1MP1N Well I wish it was something I was mass producing. I made only one and it's in my car.
Are you looking to get just the low level signals? Do you need to tap into all the factory speaker lines and use the 6v audio enable signal from the head unit?

With an adapter that completely removes the factory amp you will get a DTC for the missing DSP module but zero trouble lights on the dash. The warning chimes and back up beep warnings will play through the instrument panel speaker not the stereo after doing this.

 

[B1GG1MP1N]

@B1GG1MP1N Well I wish it was something I was mass producing. I made only one and it's in my car.
Are you looking to get just the low level signals? Do you need to tap into all the factory speaker lines and use the 6v audio enable signal from the head unit?

With an adapter that completely removes the factory amp you will get a DTC for the missing DSP module but zero trouble lights on the dash. The warning chimes and back up beep warnings will play through the instrument panel speaker not the stereo after doing this.

Yes I am looking to add an 8 channel amplifier with DSP for the system speakers and I am going to add a 12” sub with a monoblock amp for the sub. You could probably make some extra cash on eBay if you would produce the harness you’ve built . I assume there is no way to avoid the chimes being lost through the speakers? Will I also see an issue with the Bluetooth phone?

 

[StangTime]

Yes I am looking to add an 8 channel amplifier with DSP for the system speakers and I am going to add a 12” sub with a monoblock amp for the sub. You could probably make some extra cash on eBay if you would produce the harness you’ve built . I assume there is no way to avoid the chimes being lost through the speakers? Will I also see an issue with the Bluetooth phone?

There are 2 ways to keep the chimes playing through an aftermarket audio system: One is to use the FO3 harness with a DSR-1 the other is to make a break-out connector harness (costly due to many extra connectors required) to allow the CAN-Bus and power connections to remain attached to the factory DSP amp. As soon as either the CAN-Bus or power is disconnected from the amp, it throws a DTC and redirects all sounds to the instrument panel. It doesn't sound bad. I would rather have a crappy sounding "door open" chime than a crappy sounding stereo.
Bluetooth is handled by the head unit even with the OEM amplifier gone. No issue with that.

 

[Matti777]

I actually prefer the chimes through the instrument panel as its not as loud.

 

[B1GG1MP1N]

There are 2 ways to keep the chimes playing through an aftermarket audio system: One is to use the FO3 harness with a DSR-1 the other is to make a break-out connector harness (costly due to many extra connectors required) to allow the CAN-Bus and power connections to remain attached to the factory DSP amp. As soon as either the CAN-Bus or power is disconnected from the amp, it throws a DTC and redirects all sounds to the instrument panel. It doesn't sound bad. I would rather have a crappy sounding "door open" chime than a crappy sounding stereo.
Bluetooth is handled by the head unit even with the OEM amplifier gone. No issue with that.

Thanks for the information

 

[20ducks]

The latter would be simpler as you are not touching the amp or wiring up front.

Won't even be close to either of them....I'm gonna work on this tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

 

[Cathul]

I lost the chimes through speakers even with the DSR1, because you need to have rear speakers with the DSR1 to retain the chimes through the speakers according to their support. That’s stupid.

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