Sponsored
20ducks
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2020
- Threads
- 169
- Messages
- 754
- Reaction score
- 383
- Location
- Originally South Side Chicago
- First Name
- Greg G.
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Mustang GT Premium Convertible Rapid Red
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
Okay...I have a B&O system in my 2020 GT Premium Convertible. I want to install a separate amp and sub from the one that came with the B&O. If I understand he situation to do this I must use the speaker wires that go into the existing sub amp and connect them to an amp then to the sub. If that is the case where is the existing B&O sub amp so I can get to the wires? With this configuration is there any complications associated with it that I should be wary of?
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Not sure what your budget is, but I just finished installing tweets, mid-bass drivers and a JL Audio Stealthbox in my 2019 B&O equipped Bullitt. I was trying to avoid cutting stock wiring at all costs, but so far I’ve only had to cut the factory connectors from the tweeter harnesses.
What I ended up doing was installing an AmpPro fd-21 interface from PAC Audio, along with a Toslink port (added to the AmpPro) which allowed me to run a single fiber optic Toslink cable, in leu of RCA cables back to my DSP, which feeds two amps (one for tweets and mid-bass and the other for the sub), although my mid-bass woofers are currently running off of the stock amp because I haven’t figured out which wires to cut from factory amp harness, so that I can feed them via my 4 channel amp. I contacted B&O for help and surprisingly, they told me to contact my local FORD dealership for help. I say all of that just to let you know what is possible with the B&O system.
Now in your case, if all you want to do is install a subwoofer and amp, the AmpPro, add-on Toslink port and Toslink fiber optic cable are plug-n-play. Just run the Toslink cable from the AmpPro Toslink port to a DSP (which has a fiber optic port) and from there, using either speed wire or RCA cables, connect the DSP to your sub amp. This eliminates having to cut any factory wiring. Lastly, to get the most out of my subwoofer, I removed the driver’s side rear deck speaker, so that the hole could serve as a port to allow the bass to flow into the cabin, rather than be trapped in the trunk and this worked perfectly. I don’t know how convertibles are set up, but if possible, you might want to look into venting the bass into the cabin somehow for maximum effect.
Last edited:
FreePenguin
Well-Known Member
be aware, hes a tough cookie to shop for. honestly I wouldn't of given him my business, absolutely rude every step of the way. but the wires did work.
5.0_SD
Village Idiot/Biermeister
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2017
- Threads
- 25
- Messages
- 1,136
- Reaction score
- 395
- Location
- Central Florida
- First Name
- Bill
- Vehicle(s)
- 17 GT Base Lightning Blue
Wow, weird to hear that...he's always been very kind and extremely generous with his time when I've dealt with Hextall.
Sponsored
FreePenguin
Well-Known Member
I had a very bad experience with him. even drove over an hour to pick up part of his product that he forgot to mail to me, told me to message him like a minute out, dude hurried up taped the product to his door and drove off, he was opposite light of me and both in mustangs, I waived dude just turned his head and floored off.
so I drove like 2.5 hours of wasted time due to his negligence and traffic, treated me like I was stupid and was overall a bad experience. ymmv. left a bad taste in my mouth.
his wiring harness did indeed work though. all said and done
B1GG1MP1N
Member
I will keep that in mind, I sent an email via their contact form on their website last night. I will wait and see if I get a response. I also tried to purchase one from plug and play harness on eBay but he contacted me to say it didn’t work with the 9 Speaker system only the base system. He said he is working on one for the 9 speaker system but it won’t be ready for a couple of months.
I’m actually surprised that PAC, Metra or one of the other audio groups don’t make one. It’s disappointing because I’m sure that there or more of the 19 and 20 mustangs with the 9 speaker system than the B&O.
thanks again.
FreePenguin
Well-Known Member
I mean, thats strange; mine was a 9 but I purchased 12 amp speaker, the harness gave me the ability to hook up my jl audio amp directly into the factory amp. but it was only 4 wires
1 positive, 1 negative, 1 shield, and 1 remote.
the shield positive and negative all 3 plugged into the amp, I ended up not using the remote turn on, and running it into a fuse I had some popping with sub when turning on and off.
the other end, was rca ends, clipped right onto my subwoofer, positive/negative.
1 positive, 1 negative, 1 shield, and 1 remote.
the shield positive and negative all 3 plugged into the amp, I ended up not using the remote turn on, and running it into a fuse I had some popping with sub when turning on and off.
the other end, was rca ends, clipped right onto my subwoofer, positive/negative.
B1GG1MP1N
Member
I know there are harnesses out there that will allow you to either add an aftermarket sub or replace the rear sub with an aftermarket one but I’m looking to get all the information coming out of the head unit to send to a multichannel amp with DSP without splicing all the wires. The closest I’ve found is the idatalink HRN AR FO3. The problem with it is you have to buy the Fosgate DSR1 which is overkill for me because my amps have built in DSP so I’m spending an extra $200+ for an item I don’t need.
StangTime
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2019
- Threads
- 77
- Messages
- 3,510
- Reaction score
- 3,934
- Location
- Ontario 🇨🇦
- First Name
- Todd
- Vehicle(s)
- 19' GT PP1 Manual
Why do you need the DSR1 with that HRN AR FO3 harness? Buy the harness just for the plugs and modify it to put RCA plugs or whatever you want on the signal lines. Hell, I used Cat5e STP cable (triple shielded and twisted pair) to run the signals back to my trunk. I used the raw connectors sourced from Digi-Key and mounted them in a box instead of the expense of the FO3 harness.
Sponsored
B1GG1MP1N
Member
I was also told I need the Idatalink Maestro AR (Amp Replacement) to use this system. Is that incorrect?
Thanks for the information This was exactly what I hoping someone would have successfully attempted. Much appreciated
Matti777
Well-Known Member
I considered using the HRN AR FO3 harness but decided to use StangTime's design except mine has RCA connectors into the DSP. Its all working fine.