Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Cathul]

I have the premium without subwoofer, do I still have that flat variable line? ACM is the factory amp correct? I live in Canada so I’d say yes I have the American model.
Any diagram or how can I find this line for my subwoofer?
Thanks for you input, really appreciate that.

No, ACM is the radio module in the center console that includes the CD player (not the screen part!).
The amp is located in the drivers kickpanel.
They are connected with 4 signal wire pairs front/rear left and right and CAN bus wires.
The signal from the ACM to the stock amplifier is fullrange variable line output without equalization as far as i know.
In a premium system the factory EQ is applied in the amplifier, not the ACM. In base models without stock amplifier it is applied in the ACM.
So by integrating in between the ACM and the stock amplifier with the help of a T-harness you get the best possible signal you can have and use this for a subwoofer.

So i always recommend that instead of buying a line output converter in case you have a premium system.

If you wanted to replace the entire stock amplifier i would recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness to replace the stock amplifier, but if you only want a subwoofer a T-harness behind the ACM is the way to go.

 

[S550_Newbie]

No, ACM is the radio module in the center console that includes the CD player (not the screen part!).
The amp is located in the drivers kickpanel.
They are connected with 4 signal wire pairs front/rear left and right and CAN bus wires.
The signal from the ACM to the stock amplifier is fullrange variable line output without equalization as far as i know.
In a premium system the factory EQ is applied in the amplifier, not the ACM. In base models without stock amplifier it is applied in the ACM.
So by integrating in between the ACM and the stock amplifier with the help of a T-harness you get the best possible signal you can have and use this for a subwoofer.

So i always recommend that instead of buying a line output converter in case you have a premium system.

If you wanted to replace the entire stock amplifier i would recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness to replace the stock amplifier, but if you only want a subwoofer a T-harness behind the ACM is the way to go.

The signal from the ACM to the stock amplifier is fullrange variable line output without equalization as far as i know. - This is correct, I tested the variable voltage output and confirmed when I did my system.

 

[S550_Newbie]

So your suggestion is one of the option I was looking at ie insert a harness before the factory amp (after the radio) and get the signal from there? Then I could bring the signal to my amp without LOC or L2Ci since the JL amp handles high frequencies? Since I used signal before the amp I shouldn’t have roll off issues?

I believe all T-harness tap the signal before any amplification is done. The T-harness gives you the option to keep existing factory speakers connected and just upgrade the ones you want to.

I have the premium without subwoofer, do I still have that flat variable line? ACM is the factory amp correct? I live in Canada so I’d say yes I have the American model.
Any diagram or how can I find this line for my subwoofer?
Thanks for you input, really appreciate that.

Save yourself the trouble, worth the money for adding a sub since you already have the amplifier. No need to complicate things for just a sub.

 

[idscomm]

No, ACM is the radio module in the center console that includes the CD player (not the screen part!).
The amp is located in the drivers kickpanel.
They are connected with 4 signal wire pairs front/rear left and right and CAN bus wires.
The signal from the ACM to the stock amplifier is fullrange variable line output without equalization as far as i know.
In a premium system the factory EQ is applied in the amplifier, not the ACM. In base models without stock amplifier it is applied in the ACM.
So by integrating in between the ACM and the stock amplifier with the help of a T-harness you get the best possible signal you can have and use this for a subwoofer.

So i always recommend that instead of buying a line output converter in case you have a premium system.

If you wanted to replace the entire stock amplifier i would recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness to replace the stock amplifier, but if you only want a subwoofer a T-harness behind the ACM is the way to go.

Oh ok, Thanks for the clarification. I have located the amp already.. Guess I'll have to dismantle the centre console now and try to find a T harness to get my signal from. I looked at the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 but yes, I realized that it was not what I was looking for. Crutchfield was mentioning the DSR1 but like I said I am keeping factory amp, just adding a Sub and mono amp.

Do you happen to have a link for the T harness I would be looking for to get that signal from the ACM? Not sure if Crutchfield is selling it...

So if my signal is full range variable, the amps I am looking at (JL Audio JD500/1 or Alpine S-A60M) both have the low/high voltage selector... would this signal be high? I installed sound systems in my cars back when I was a teenager but things have changed since, just want to make sure I do it right.

Appreciate your help very much.

 

[m3incorp]

@Cathul, have you used the PAC AmpPro AP4-FD21 and used the optical outlet to run to a DSP in the rear? This is for a B&O (12 speaker system).

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-am...ony-system-black-blue/5981701.p?skuId=5981701

I am thinking to run this into a JL Audio Twk-88 and then from there to the amps. I was going to use the JL Audio VS amps with built in DSP, but they are usually on back order and prices went way up on them.

 

[idscomm]

I believe all T-harness tap the signal before any amplification is done. The T-harness gives you the option to keep existing factory speakers connected and just upgrade the ones you want to.

Save yourself the trouble, worth the money for adding a sub since you already have the amplifier. No need to complicate things for just a sub.

I saw that video actually... so this guy makes the T Harness my understanding... which is what I need. I see he his using a L2Ci tho?

This is why I get confused lol If using that T harness to only add a sub and mono amp, L2Ci yes or no

 

[S550_Newbie]

I saw that video actually... so this guy makes the T Harness my understanding... which is what I need. I see he his using a L2Ci tho?

This is why I get confused lol If using that T harness to only add a sub and mono amp, L2Ci yes or no

His name is Joe, call him and tell him you just want the harness if you don't need the LC2i and he will sell you just the harness. Tell him what you have and he will even terminate the ends of the harness for your system / amp. Can't beat the price for both though, a complete harness with enough wire to run to the back of the vehicle. Can't hurt to give him a call. I bought this when I started and it took me 30 minutes to have it all setup (already ran amp power and ground).

 

[idscomm]

His name is Joe, call him and tell him you just want the harness if you don't need the LC2i and he will sell you just the harness. Tell him what you have and he will even terminate the ends of the harness for your system / amp. Can't beat the price for both though, a complete harness with enough wire to run to the back of the vehicle. Can't hurt to give him a call. I bought this when I started and it took me 30 minutes to have it all setup (already ran amp power and ground).

Thanks for the tip, I will send him an email!

 

[StangTime]

I saw that video actually... so this guy makes the T Harness my understanding... which is what I need. I see he his using a L2Ci tho?

This is why I get confused lol If using that T harness to only add a sub and mono amp, L2Ci yes or no

No need for all that stuff. Tap into the rear speaker wires and run a pair of twisted wire to any summing sub amplifier with HI-LEVEL INPUTS and turn-on signal sensing. Connect your sub amp to your subwoofer and run an appropriately sized power wire up to the battery. For a sub that's all you need. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3282962

 

[Cathul]

@Cathul, have you used the PAC AmpPro AP4-FD21 and used the optical outlet to run to a DSP in the rear? This is for a B&O (12 speaker system).

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-am...ony-system-black-blue/5981701.p?skuId=5981701

I am thinking to run this into a JL Audio Twk-88 and then from there to the amps. I was going to use the JL Audio VS amps with built in DSP, but they are usually on back order and prices went way up on them.

No. Mine is a 2016, but when Pac Audio states that it fits then go for it.

 

[BrianH87]

No need for all that stuff. Tap into the rear speaker wires and run a pair of twisted wire to any summing sub amplifier with HI-LEVEL INPUTS and turn-on signal sensing. Connect your sub amp to your subwoofer and run an appropriately sized power wire up to the battery. For a sub that's all you need. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3282962

I keep hearing conflicting reports of this. Some say it’s okay, others say you should grab the signal at the front speakers. Does this really work as an ideal source? Or is the source better up front?

 

[idscomm]

I keep hearing conflicting reports of this. Some say it’s okay, others say you should grab the signal at the front speakers. Does this really work as an ideal source? Or is the source better up front?

I'm with you, that's exactly what I am trying to find out before ordering my parts!

 

[m3incorp]

Lots of people tap into the rear speakers to add a subwoofer, if you are going to go that route.

 

[robsmack01]

I keep hearing conflicting reports of this. Some say it’s okay, others say you should grab the signal at the front speakers. Does this really work as an ideal source? Or is the source better up front?

I’m about to find out this weekend. Tapping into the rear speaker wires with RCA in-line conversion wires for JL 500/1 amp with high voltage input switch for automatic signal turn on. My only question is, once I dig thru the wire bundle and find the + & - for both speakers do I cut and splice in the RCA wires or do I expose and wrap? Using posi tap connectors so I’m guessing cut and splice it all together on each terminal wire. This would be my first time doing this type of stuff.

 

[m3incorp]

That JL Audio Amp is a good amp. Make sure you have a good remote turn-on location. Tap near where the wires connect to the speakers and there will not be a bundle of wires to deal with.

I’m about to find out this weekend. Tapping into the rear speaker wires with RCA in-line conversion wires for JL 500/1 amp with high voltage input switch for automatic signal turn on. My only question is, once I dig thru the wire bundle and find the + & - for both speakers do I cut and splice in the RCA wires or do I expose and wrap? Using posi tap connectors so I’m guessing cut and splice it all together on each terminal wire. This would be my first time doing this type of stuff.