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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

idscomm

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His name is Joe, call him and tell him you just want the harness if you don't need the LC2i and he will sell you just the harness. Tell him what you have and he will even terminate the ends of the harness for your system / amp. Can't beat the price for both though, a complete harness with enough wire to run to the back of the vehicle. Can't hurt to give him a call. I bought this when I started and it took me 30 minutes to have it all setup (already ran amp power and ground).
Thanks for the tip, I will send him an email!
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StangTime

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I saw that video actually... so this guy makes the T Harness my understanding... which is what I need. I see he his using a L2Ci tho?

This is why I get confused lol If using that T harness to only add a sub and mono amp, L2Ci yes or no :facepalm:
No need for all that stuff. Tap into the rear speaker wires and run a pair of twisted wire to any summing sub amplifier with HI-LEVEL INPUTS and turn-on signal sensing. Connect your sub amp to your subwoofer and run an appropriately sized power wire up to the battery. For a sub that's all you need. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3282962
 
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Cathul

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@Cathul, have you used the PAC AmpPro AP4-FD21 and used the optical outlet to run to a DSP in the rear? This is for a B&O (12 speaker system).

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-am...ony-system-black-blue/5981701.p?skuId=5981701

I am thinking to run this into a JL Audio Twk-88 and then from there to the amps. I was going to use the JL Audio VS amps with built in DSP, but they are usually on back order and prices went way up on them.
No. Mine is a 2016, but when Pac Audio states that it fits then go for it.
 

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No need for all that stuff. Tap into the rear speaker wires and run a pair of twisted wire to any summing sub amplifier with HI-LEVEL INPUTS and turn-on signal sensing. Connect your sub amp to your subwoofer and run an appropriately sized power wire up to the battery. For a sub that's all you need. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3282962
I keep hearing conflicting reports of this. Some say it’s okay, others say you should grab the signal at the front speakers. Does this really work as an ideal source? Or is the source better up front?
 

idscomm

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I keep hearing conflicting reports of this. Some say it’s okay, others say you should grab the signal at the front speakers. Does this really work as an ideal source? Or is the source better up front?
I'm with you, that's exactly what I am trying to find out before ordering my parts!
 

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m3incorp

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Lots of people tap into the rear speakers to add a subwoofer, if you are going to go that route.
 

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I keep hearing conflicting reports of this. Some say it’s okay, others say you should grab the signal at the front speakers. Does this really work as an ideal source? Or is the source better up front?
I’m about to find out this weekend. Tapping into the rear speaker wires with RCA in-line conversion wires for JL 500/1 amp with high voltage input switch for automatic signal turn on. My only question is, once I dig thru the wire bundle and find the + & - for both speakers do I cut and splice in the RCA wires or do I expose and wrap? Using posi tap connectors so I’m guessing cut and splice it all together on each terminal wire. This would be my first time doing this type of stuff.
 

m3incorp

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That JL Audio Amp is a good amp. Make sure you have a good remote turn-on location. Tap near where the wires connect to the speakers and there will not be a bundle of wires to deal with.

I’m about to find out this weekend. Tapping into the rear speaker wires with RCA in-line conversion wires for JL 500/1 amp with high voltage input switch for automatic signal turn on. My only question is, once I dig thru the wire bundle and find the + & - for both speakers do I cut and splice in the RCA wires or do I expose and wrap? Using posi tap connectors so I’m guessing cut and splice it all together on each terminal wire. This would be my first time doing this type of stuff.
 

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I keep hearing conflicting reports of this. Some say it’s okay, others say you should grab the signal at the front speakers. Does this really work as an ideal source? Or is the source better up front?
Technically it is possible to do it both ways, but it's always better to not touch the factory wiring at all. If you do it with a T-harness you have the same result.
Splicing/tapping has the inherent risk of damaging the factory wires.
Using a T-harness it he better solution. It's plug'n'play, it doesn't alter the factory wiring, it gives you all signal wires you need, it gives you an appropriate remote turn on, everything.
And in case you want to sell the car, you just remove the T-harness, plug the factory wiring back in and have a totally stock system again.
With tapping you probably need to resolder the wires, reinsulate them, remove the remote turn on (if not using signal sense enabled amps) that you tapped somewhere, resolder that factory wire, too and so on and so on.

T-harnesses are the way to go. Yes, you have to dismantle the center console, but that takes 20-30 minutes at most. Yes, you have to route the wires to the back of the car, but you basically need to do this any way for power and ground, so why do people still tap factory speakers if there are technically better solutions? I don't get it and sometimes i feel like Don Quichotte... <sigh>
 

m3incorp

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I'm sure they do it because to them it's quicker and easier 😁 I agree with staying factory by going T-harness.

Technically it is possible to do it both ways, but it's always better to not touch the factory wiring at all. If you do it with a T-harness you have the same result.
Splicing/tapping has the inherent risk of damaging the factory wires.
Using a T-harness it he better solution. It's plug'n'play, it doesn't alter the factory wiring, it gives you all signal wires you need, it gives you an appropriate remote turn on, everything.
And in case you want to sell the car, you just remove the T-harness, plug the factory wiring back in and have a totally stock system again.
With tapping you probably need to resolder the wires, reinsulate them, remove the remote turn on (if not using signal sense enabled amps) that you tapped somewhere, resolder that factory wire, too and so on and so on.

T-harnesses are the way to go. Yes, you have to dismantle the center console, but that takes 20-30 minutes at most. Yes, you have to route the wires to the back of the car, but you basically need to do this any way for power and ground, so why do people still tap factory speakers if there are technically better solutions? I don't get it and sometimes i feel like Don Quichotte... <sigh>

Technically it is possible to do it both ways, but it's always better to not touch the factory wiring at all. If you do it with a T-harness you have the same result.
Splicing/tapping has the inherent risk of damaging the factory wires.
Using a T-harness it he better solution. It's plug'n'play, it doesn't alter the factory wiring, it gives you all signal wires you need, it gives you an appropriate remote turn on, everything.
And in case you want to sell the car, you just remove the T-harness, plug the factory wiring back in and have a totally stock system again.
With tapping you probably need to resolder the wires, reinsulate them, remove the remote turn on (if not using signal sense enabled amps) that you tapped somewhere, resolder that factory wire, too and so on and so on.

T-harnesses are the way to go. Yes, you have to dismantle the center console, but that takes 20-30 minutes at most. Yes, you have to route the wires to the back of the car, but you basically need to do this any way for power and ground, so why do people still tap factory speakers if there are technically better solutions? I don't get it and sometimes i feel like Don Quichotte... <sigh>
 

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StangTime

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T harness is good for preserving the integrity of the wires in the car, yes. But to use a T-harness you have to remove a significant amount of the interior to run the wires. You run the risk of damaging panels or breaking tabs. The rear speaker wires are more accessible and easy to tap into for a simple sub-woofer install.
There are pros and cons of both methods. Ultimately up to the owner/installer to do what they feel comfortable with.
 
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robsmack01

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T harness is good for preserving the integrity of the wires in the car, yes. But to use a T-harness you have to remove a significant amount of the interior to run the wires. You run the risk of damaging panels or breaking tabs. The rear speaker wires are more accessible and easy to tap into for a simple sub-woofer install.
There are pros and cons of both methods. Ultimately up to the owner/installer to do what they feel comfortable with.
Looked under the rear speakers for the first time last night. Just got my Mustang 2 wks ago. The speaker connection to the car is just some wires soldered onto a connection stem. Is it a good idea to carefully solder my amp RCA wires onto those stems as well? Saves from cutting into any wires.
 

robsmack01

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Anybody used these yet?

1641563722951.png
I have some. Haven't used yet but they've been recommended over other forms of wire tapping.
 

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They are just wires, if you can solder you can do anything with them. Not a big deal. Tap, don't tap, the end result is you have a signal to your amp. The thing that I wanted to know was if it was a full range or crossed over signal. Pulling the body panels is not a big deal either. The dash is more of a pain than the driver and passenger sides but as long as you have a proper pry tool and are gentle it will be fine. Like I said, if that terrifies you, just buy the plug n play kits harness with an LC2i, the wires are all already connected, don't have to tear into the dash and it comes with the T-harness you plug in at the amplifier not in the dash. It's 195$.
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