Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[idscomm]

I don't think you will have to do much tuning at all. Tap the signal, it should be a full range signal, and set your low pass crossover. Done.

Ok, if that’s the best option I’ll go with it. Mono amp, Sub and L2Ci it is. Other than tuning the L2Ci everything else is pretty straight forward.

Do you have a similar setup?

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[S550_Newbie]

Ok, if that’s the best option I’ll go with it. Mono amp, Sub and L2Ci it is. Other than tuning the L2Ci everything else is pretty straight forward.

Do you have a similar setup?

It started out that way yes, but since has evolved to a completely new system throughout with multiple amps and every speaker replaced, fronts are Focal 3 way component, the rears are Focal coaxial, no center channel and a custom 12" inch sub in the trunk. Getting ready to replace that sub with 2 Massive Audio HippoXL84's. I replace the factory amp with a maestro AR and have an AudioControl D.6.1200 for the front and rears and a 1400watt amp for the sub.

 

[m3incorp]

I bet it sounds great.

It started out that way yes, but since has evolved to a completely new system throughout with multiple amps and every speaker replaced, fronts are Focal 3 way component, the rears are Focal coaxial, no center channel and a custom 12" inch sub in the trunk. Getting ready to replace that sub with 2 Massive Audio HippoXL84's. I replace the factory amp with a maestro AR and have an AudioControl D.6.1200 for the front and rears and a 1400watt amp for the sub.

 

[Cathul]

Don't! Tap! Factory! Wires!

especially if there are better, i.e. non-intrusive ways to get a signal especially for the 2015-2018 Mustangs with Shaker system (doesn't matter if 9- or 12-speaker).
Always use a T-harness with these cars that plug in between the ACM and the factory wires that feed the ACM. (T-harnesses are available from Helix, CarAV, Musway and many other companies).
At this point in time there are so many ways to integrate into a factory system that there is no need to cut/splice/tap into any factory wiring in the 2015+ Mustangs anymore.

 

[idscomm]

It started out that way yes, but since has evolved to a completely new system throughout with multiple amps and every speaker replaced, fronts are Focal 3 way component, the rears are Focal coaxial, no center channel and a custom 12" inch sub in the trunk. Getting ready to replace that sub with 2 Massive Audio HippoXL84's. I replace the factory amp with a maestro AR and have an AudioControl D.6.1200 for the front and rears and a 1400watt amp for the sub.

We’ll that’s quite the upgrade. I’ll start with the Sub and go from there. I can’t say I didn’t think about replacing the entire thing but I find the Premium doesn’t sound that bad for me needs … just has no bass whatsoever!

 

[idscomm]

Don't! Tap! Factory! Wires!

especially if there are better, i.e. non-intrusive ways to get a signal especially for the 2015-2018 Mustangs with Shaker system (doesn't matter if 9- or 12-speaker).
Always use a T-harness with these cars that plug in between the ACM and the factory wires that feed the ACM. (T-harnesses are available from Helix, CarAV, Musway and many other companies).
At this point in time there are so many ways to integrate into a factory system that there is no need to cut/splice/tap into any factory wiring in the 2015+ Mustangs anymore.

So your suggestion is one of the option I was looking at ie insert a harness before the factory amp (after the radio) and get the signal from there? Then I could bring the signal to my amp without LOC or L2Ci since the JL amp handles high frequencies? Since I used signal before the amp I shouldn’t have roll off issues?

 

[Cathul]

So your suggestion is one of the option I was looking at ie insert a harness before the factory amp (after the radio) and get the signal from there? Then I could bring the signal to my amp without LOC or L2Ci since the JL amp handles high frequencies? Since I used signal before the amp I shouldn’t have roll off issues?

Well, you wrote you have the Premium 9-speaker sound system.
With that you have a flat variable line level output from the ACM which is the best possible signal you can get from the ACM.
No Line Output Converter needed for this signal.
In addition you have a remote turn on in the exact same plug (if US model) that you can use to switch on the amp for the aftermarket sub.

 

[idscomm]

Well, you wrote you have the Premium 9-speaker sound system.
With that you have a flat variable line level output from the ACM which is the best possible signal you can get from the ACM.
No Line Output Converter needed for this signal.
In addition you have a remote turn on in the exact same plug (if US model) that you can use to switch on the amp for the aftermarket sub.

I have the premium without subwoofer, do I still have that flat variable line? ACM is the factory amp correct? I live in Canada so I’d say yes I have the American model.
Any diagram or how can I find this line for my subwoofer?
Thanks for you input, really appreciate that.

 

[Cathul]

I have the premium without subwoofer, do I still have that flat variable line? ACM is the factory amp correct? I live in Canada so I’d say yes I have the American model.
Any diagram or how can I find this line for my subwoofer?
Thanks for you input, really appreciate that.

No, ACM is the radio module in the center console that includes the CD player (not the screen part!).
The amp is located in the drivers kickpanel.
They are connected with 4 signal wire pairs front/rear left and right and CAN bus wires.
The signal from the ACM to the stock amplifier is fullrange variable line output without equalization as far as i know.
In a premium system the factory EQ is applied in the amplifier, not the ACM. In base models without stock amplifier it is applied in the ACM.
So by integrating in between the ACM and the stock amplifier with the help of a T-harness you get the best possible signal you can have and use this for a subwoofer.

So i always recommend that instead of buying a line output converter in case you have a premium system.

If you wanted to replace the entire stock amplifier i would recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness to replace the stock amplifier, but if you only want a subwoofer a T-harness behind the ACM is the way to go.

 

[S550_Newbie]

No, ACM is the radio module in the center console that includes the CD player (not the screen part!).
The amp is located in the drivers kickpanel.
They are connected with 4 signal wire pairs front/rear left and right and CAN bus wires.
The signal from the ACM to the stock amplifier is fullrange variable line output without equalization as far as i know.
In a premium system the factory EQ is applied in the amplifier, not the ACM. In base models without stock amplifier it is applied in the ACM.
So by integrating in between the ACM and the stock amplifier with the help of a T-harness you get the best possible signal you can have and use this for a subwoofer.

So i always recommend that instead of buying a line output converter in case you have a premium system.

If you wanted to replace the entire stock amplifier i would recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness to replace the stock amplifier, but if you only want a subwoofer a T-harness behind the ACM is the way to go.

The signal from the ACM to the stock amplifier is fullrange variable line output without equalization as far as i know. - This is correct, I tested the variable voltage output and confirmed when I did my system.

 

[S550_Newbie]

So your suggestion is one of the option I was looking at ie insert a harness before the factory amp (after the radio) and get the signal from there? Then I could bring the signal to my amp without LOC or L2Ci since the JL amp handles high frequencies? Since I used signal before the amp I shouldn’t have roll off issues?

I believe all T-harness tap the signal before any amplification is done. The T-harness gives you the option to keep existing factory speakers connected and just upgrade the ones you want to.

I have the premium without subwoofer, do I still have that flat variable line? ACM is the factory amp correct? I live in Canada so I’d say yes I have the American model.
Any diagram or how can I find this line for my subwoofer?
Thanks for you input, really appreciate that.

Save yourself the trouble, worth the money for adding a sub since you already have the amplifier. No need to complicate things for just a sub.

 

[idscomm]

No, ACM is the radio module in the center console that includes the CD player (not the screen part!).
The amp is located in the drivers kickpanel.
They are connected with 4 signal wire pairs front/rear left and right and CAN bus wires.
The signal from the ACM to the stock amplifier is fullrange variable line output without equalization as far as i know.
In a premium system the factory EQ is applied in the amplifier, not the ACM. In base models without stock amplifier it is applied in the ACM.
So by integrating in between the ACM and the stock amplifier with the help of a T-harness you get the best possible signal you can have and use this for a subwoofer.

So i always recommend that instead of buying a line output converter in case you have a premium system.

If you wanted to replace the entire stock amplifier i would recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness to replace the stock amplifier, but if you only want a subwoofer a T-harness behind the ACM is the way to go.

Oh ok, Thanks for the clarification. I have located the amp already.. Guess I'll have to dismantle the centre console now and try to find a T harness to get my signal from. I looked at the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 but yes, I realized that it was not what I was looking for. Crutchfield was mentioning the DSR1 but like I said I am keeping factory amp, just adding a Sub and mono amp.

Do you happen to have a link for the T harness I would be looking for to get that signal from the ACM? Not sure if Crutchfield is selling it...

So if my signal is full range variable, the amps I am looking at (JL Audio JD500/1 or Alpine S-A60M) both have the low/high voltage selector... would this signal be high? I installed sound systems in my cars back when I was a teenager but things have changed since, just want to make sure I do it right.

Appreciate your help very much.

 

[m3incorp]

@Cathul, have you used the PAC AmpPro AP4-FD21 and used the optical outlet to run to a DSP in the rear? This is for a B&O (12 speaker system).

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-am...ony-system-black-blue/5981701.p?skuId=5981701

I am thinking to run this into a JL Audio Twk-88 and then from there to the amps. I was going to use the JL Audio VS amps with built in DSP, but they are usually on back order and prices went way up on them.

 

[idscomm]

I believe all T-harness tap the signal before any amplification is done. The T-harness gives you the option to keep existing factory speakers connected and just upgrade the ones you want to.

Save yourself the trouble, worth the money for adding a sub since you already have the amplifier. No need to complicate things for just a sub.

I saw that video actually... so this guy makes the T Harness my understanding... which is what I need. I see he his using a L2Ci tho?

This is why I get confused lol If using that T harness to only add a sub and mono amp, L2Ci yes or no

 

[S550_Newbie]

I saw that video actually... so this guy makes the T Harness my understanding... which is what I need. I see he his using a L2Ci tho?

This is why I get confused lol If using that T harness to only add a sub and mono amp, L2Ci yes or no

His name is Joe, call him and tell him you just want the harness if you don't need the LC2i and he will sell you just the harness. Tell him what you have and he will even terminate the ends of the harness for your system / amp. Can't beat the price for both though, a complete harness with enough wire to run to the back of the vehicle. Can't hurt to give him a call. I bought this when I started and it took me 30 minutes to have it all setup (already ran amp power and ground).

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