Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Falk03]

I have been reading this thread for the last few days as time permits. I am a little over 1/2 way thought now.
One question that comes to mind, and that I have not seen answered yet is about base model mustangs (in my case a 2016 v6 base model) converting to the factory 12 channel DSP/Amp.
On the base model, there is a single channel routed to each of the doors directly from the ACM. These are then split between the A pillar tweeter, and the 6.5" door mounted woofer (full range). Once you redirect the ACM line outs to the factory DSP/Amp, you get an additional channel that runs to the door. Are the base models pre-wired for this extra channel in the door, or will I need to route those new leads myself? from what I have read, running wires to the door is a tough job...

Thanks,
Rick

No, the base model does not have the wires. You have to add the missing wires: from the amp to the door connectors and everything in the doors. I did that job and it was quite some work.
In the end the most difficult part was adding the speaker grills to my door panels.

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[Rickster]

In the end the most difficult part was adding the speaker grills to my door panels.

Ya know, I didn't even think about that I guess adding the new 3.5" speakers just might require grills...

Thanks for the reply

 

[Falk03]

Ya know, I didn't even think about that I guess adding the new 3.5" speakers just might require grills...

Thanks for the reply

I mounted the speakers in the place where they are supposed to be, but had build new mounting brackets. Then I used a hole saw to cut a hole in the door panel at the right place and glued the grill in place.

IMAG2144

• Falk03
• Dec 20, 2019

 

[Rickster]

That looks really clean, well done sir!

 

[Rickster]

I just noticed/thought of something. The wiring diagrams from the service manual show a CAN bus routed to the factory DSP/Amp. I have heard mention of using forScan to modify the APIM, ACM, etc... but no mention on modifying the DSP. I would think that since it is a DSP that it *MIGHT* have settings to modify the output channels? Cross-over frequencies perhaps?

If so, this would solve the bass falloff issue for the rear deck speakers when using them for a sub in the trunk?

 

[Emilbadal]

I have been reading this thread for the last few days as time permits. I am a little over 1/2 way thought now.
One question that comes to mind, and that I have not seen answered yet is about base model mustangs (in my case a 2016 v6 base model) converting to the factory 12 channel DSP/Amp.
On the base model, there is a single channel routed to each of the doors directly from the ACM. These are then split between the A pillar tweeter, and the 6.5" door mounted woofer (full range). Once you redirect the ACM line outs to the factory DSP/Amp, you get an additional channel that runs to the door. Are the base models pre-wired for this extra channel in the door, or will I need to route those new leads myself? from what I have read, running wires to the door is a tough job...

Thanks,
Rick

Why would you want to do that? You’ll have to buy premium door panels on top of all the rest of the oem equipments just to get a marginally better sound(Even the 12 speaker owners are not happy with their sound systems). As far as I remember, I haven’t seen any wiring in my doors for the mid-range \ 3rd speaker(I have v6 too). If you’re on budget your best bet is to change your speakers with Kicker CS series speakers with your factory amp and if your basshead add a subwoofer(optional). All you’ll have to do is to disable the factory EQ in forscan To get full range on all your speakers. This will give you the least amount of headache and biggest jump in sound quality and sound level or you can go all the way in with DSPs subwoofers and all that good stuff, just don’t do the 12 speaker conversion it’s gonna be a huge disappointment.

 

[TonyTheTiger57]

What is the part number for the wiring harness to the Subwoofer?

 

[TSV]

Both my 3.5" door speakers in my new 2018 GT premium(401a non-shaker) are already blown. Instead of replacing them with crappy OEM I figured now would be a good time to upgrade them. Any recommendations for direct upgrades(no modding needed) for them?

Check out ct sounds, they have dedicated mid drivers at a reasonable price. If you want coaxials everybody makes those. I would check sensitivity specs and ohm specs as well. I'm going to change mine to a dedicated mid driver 4 ohm and leave the factory door woofer and factory tweeters and hope it sounds ok. I will dynamat the woofers.

 

[BWG]

I have a 2018 Base. Is this the best option for adding my Dayton DSP? I plan to forscan and convert to flat and line out. Cut the speaker outputs. Run them to rca plugs, and then into my DSP.

 

[Cathul]

Basically yes, but don't cut wires, use a T-harness instead (f.e. the CARAV 12-240).

 

[BWG]

Basically yes, but don't cut wires, use a T-harness instead (f.e. the CARAV 12-240).

I'm running new copper wires to all of the speakers. It's not hard to put those 8 wires back onto the factory harness if I put it back to stock someday for sale. Thank you though.

 

[Cathul]

With the CarAV 12-240 it will be plug‘n‘play. Just add the RCAs to the adapter and go crazy. Fits right behind the ACM. You could also reuse some of the factory speaker wires by using Stinger Speedwire together with the T-Harness.

All i want to say is, never cut the original wires (imho) if there are ways to prevent that.

 

[rdisatell75]

Just finished wiring my GT 401A non shaker and installing amps and dsp. Speakers are Milles on order. I used the iDatalink HRN-AR-FO3 Harness which makes nearly everything plug and play. No cutting of factory harness but there is soldering your speaker wires from iDatalink harness to DSP, then from amp speaker outs to iDatalink harness again. Equipment is:

• iDatalink HRN-AR-FO3 Harness
  
• Polk Audio D4000.4
• Kicker CXA1200.1
• AudioControl DM-608
• SoloBaric L7S 10"

With the rears and center not connected or needed, the sound after some rudimentary tuning with the stock factory fronts is in a word, amazing. The amps and DSP make all the difference here. I'm seriously debating cancelling the Mille order it sounds that good.

I am looking at a similar setup as you, utilizing the HRN-AR-FO3 and a DM-608. How are you liking it now? What type of RCA connectors did you use?

 

[Thestangb]

Here's my setup, hopefully it'll help others:

https://m.facebook.com/groups/245688985629930?view=permalink&id=1270996539765831

 

[trkpny]

Can anyone verify that they have installed a Metra 99-5838ch in a GT350? I have a 2017 GT350 and just had an installer tell me that the kit wouldn't fit--that it would fit a GT or base Stang, but not the 350. I was under the impression that it works fine.

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