Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[zero_chance]

I figured this information is kind of scattered everywhere, so I am trying to condense it all into one place to help everyone out.

If there is information that needs to be edited or added, let me know. Hopefully I will be able to edit this later to keep it up to date.

Speaker Info
Base Model (6 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
6.5" (Rear Deck)

Premium Models 200A/400A (9 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" (Rear Deck)

Premium Models w/ Shaker Audio 201A/401A (12 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" Coax (Rear Deck)
Subwoofer

Speaker Pictures (Premium Shaker Shown) - Thank you stoli!!

Amplifier Information
Base cars do not have an amplifier, all speakers are powered directly from the head unit.

Premium/Shaker cars have an amplifier in the drivers side kick panel area that is driven from line level feeds from the head unit. The center channel is "created" by the amplifier itself, not the head unit. The sub signal also seems to be artificially created as I see no wiring to suggest it comes directly from the head unit.

The subwoofer amplifier is located on the subwoofer box itself.

Wiring Information
Here are the wiring diagrams for the cars. Thank you Heinoceros.

Base radio (only shows front speakers):

Premium (including Shaker systems):
Head Unit to Amplifier

Amplifier to Speakers

Amplifier Connectors Thank you ThirtyThreePointThree and h65 for getting part numbers and the rest of this information.
These are made by Molex and can be had from Mouser.com.

34690-0160 - C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160

34690-0161 - C2385A has most of the speaker outputs.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161

34772-0142 - C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140

Pre-Amp Signal Measurements - Thank you h65!
The range is 0.04 volts at 20% volume to 1.53 volts at 80% volume (and 3.1 volts at max volume) with a CD audio source. Measurement was taken from pins 7 and 8 which represent the front left signal.

12v Remote Turn-on Lead
There is one conveniently located in the trunk wiring harness near the right rear speaker. The wire you are looking for is the blue/white one.

Am I correct in assuming on a GT Premium with Shaker, no Forscan trickery is needed to convert to line level if accessing the HU feeds at the factory amplifier? But Forscan can still eliminate the bass roll off?

Sponsored

 

[MAD MATT]

:gossip:
We are working on a "Y" plug adapter for the base radio so you will not have to cut wires.
It will work with a DSP amp we are preparing, or your amp ( with open ends to connect to your amp).

Rob
G3 Acoustics LLC

Did this ever go into production?

 

[Hilfloskind]

Question:

I am getting ready to install my Orion 12" sub and amp in my 2018 convertible (need a custom fab box made) to replace the pathetic sub that comes with the Shaker Pro system. When I do this, I am also planning to upgrade the door 6" and 3.5" speakers to Powerbass woofers and Infinity reference coax 3.5"s (already swapped the center channel for this one and want to match it with the door 3.5"s).

My question is this: when I use FORScan to flatten the EQ, will this also remove the weird bass reduction/DSP effect that occurs when you unlatch the top? On the convertibles, when you drop the top it changes the audio profile and reduces the bass output fairly significantly. I definitely would like to deactivate this setting as well, but I'm not sure if the EQ flattening setting also covers this change. Anyone know?

Thanks!

 

[MAD MATT]

Question:

I am getting ready to install my Orion 12" sub and amp in my 2018 convertible (need a custom fab box made) to replace the pathetic sub that comes with the Shaker Pro system. When I do this, I am also planning to upgrade the door 6" and 3.5" speakers to Powerbass woofers and Infinity reference coax 3.5"s (already swapped the center channel for this one and want to match it with the door 3.5"s).

My question is this: when I use FORScan to flatten the EQ, will this also remove the weird bass reduction/DSP effect that occurs when you unlatch the top? On the convertibles, when you drop the top it changes the audio profile and reduces the bass output fairly significantly. I definitely would like to deactivate this setting as well, but I'm not sure if the EQ flattening setting also covers this change. Anyone know?

Thanks!

I have seen somewhere on these forums that there is a module in the overhead console of verts that needs to be unplugged to get decent bass response. At first I thought this was an ANC mic but now I am deducing from what I am hearing that this is a sensor that registers if the top is open (my GT doesn't have ANC correct?). Can anyone confirm all of this?

 

[Hilfloskind]

I have seen somewhere on these forums that there is a module in the overhead console of verts that needs to be unplugged to get decent bass response. At first I thought this was an ANC mic but now I am deducing from what I am hearing that this is a sensor that registers if the top is open (my GT doesn't have ANC correct?). Can anyone confirm all of this?

I removed the ANC module on mine and it definitely didn't change the way the sound changes when the roof is unlatched, so there must be something else either via FORScan or a sensor, like you said. Very curious to know!

 

[StangTime]

Question:

I am getting ready to install my Orion 12" sub and amp in my 2018 convertible (need a custom fab box made) to replace the pathetic sub that comes with the Shaker Pro system. When I do this, I am also planning to upgrade the door 6" and 3.5" speakers to Powerbass woofers and Infinity reference coax 3.5"s (already swapped the center channel for this one and want to match it with the door 3.5"s).

My question is this: when I use FORScan to flatten the EQ, will this also remove the weird bass reduction/DSP effect that occurs when you unlatch the top? On the convertibles, when you drop the top it changes the audio profile and reduces the bass output fairly significantly. I definitely would like to deactivate this setting as well, but I'm not sure if the EQ flattening setting also covers this change. Anyone know?

Thanks!

I don't think that is a result of some EQ setting. When you open the roof, the interior volume of the car changes from a small enclosed space to a wide open one. You lose something called "cabin gain" and the bass drops dramatically as a result of the now open top. Unfortunately the nature of physics.

 

[Hilfloskind]

I don't think that is a result of some EQ setting. When you open the roof, the interior volume of the car changes from a small enclosed space to a wide open one. You lose something called "cabin gain" and the bass drops dramatically as a result of the now open top. Unfortunately the nature of physics.

It's definitely not a physics thing. Literally when you twist the latch, the audio cuts off and then comes back on with a different sound profile. It doesn't even require opening the roof all the way. The latch twist itself engages the change when it silences the audio momentarily.

 

[StangTime]

It's definitely not a physics thing. Literally when you twist the latch, the audio cuts off and then comes back on with a different sound profile. It doesn't even require opening the roof all the way. The latch twist itself engages the change when it silences the audio momentarily.

Ok. So you have a double edged sword and both are killing your bass. Ford changes the EQ and you also lose bass due to cabin gain loss. The cabin gain loss is a known problem with any convertible automobile with a sub woofer.
Forscan might be able to help but you would need to know how the ACM differentiates between a convertible and a coupe in order to disable this function.

 

[Hilfloskind]

Ok. So you have a double edged sword and both are killing your bass. Ford changes the EQ and you also lose bass due to cabin gain loss. The cabin gain loss is a known problem with any convertible automobile with a sub woofer.

Yep, two issues. Can't do anything about the physics part, but the electronic EQ/DSP settings are what I'm seeking to fix. I know how to flatten the EQ with FORScan. My question remains: will doing so also stop the function of the system changing the audio profile when you unlatch the roof. I hope so. If not, I'm hoping someone knows which block to modify in the as-is build.

 

[StangTime]

Yep, two issues. Can't do anything about the physics part, but the electronic EQ/DSP settings are what I'm seeking to fix. I know how to flatten the EQ with FORScan. My question remains: will doing so also stop the function of the system changing the audio profile when you unlatch the roof. I hope so. If not, I'm hoping someone knows which block to modify in the as-is build.

You would need to compare the as-built data for identically equipped sound systems from a convertible and a coupe. That's beyond my experience level.

 

[MAD MATT]

A 12" driver with 28mm of Xmax will solve the physics part.

 

[Hilfloskind]

A 12" driver with 28mm of Xmax will solve the physics part.

What's Xmax? Sound deadener?

 

[MAD MATT]

What's Xmax? Sound deadener?

Xmax is the one way displacement of the cone. That along with the diameter of the cone determines how much air a subwoofer can move. My point was that with enough power, my sub can move enough air to compensate for the wide open cabin (even with the flexible top up the pressure is not contained). You see the SPL (Sound Pressure Level) is maximum when the car's cabin is small, solid, and sealed. Open the windows and some pressure leaks out, open a sun roof and more leaks. If you open a convertible, it is like standing in an open field. You get the least SPL this way, but with enough power and displacement you can compensate and get decent bass. I am guessing they may have tuned it to drop out the bass with the top down to prevent the distortion from people trying to turn it up but the system not being able to put out the kind of power needed.

 

[Hilfloskind]

Xmax is the one way displacement of the cone. That along with the diameter of the cone determines how much air a subwoofer can move. My point was that with enough power, my sub can move enough air to compensate for the wide open cabin (even with the flexible top up the pressure is not contained). You see the SPL (Sound Pressure Level) is maximum when the car's cabin is small, solid, and sealed. Open the windows and some pressure leaks out, open a sun roof and more leaks. If you open a convertible, it is like standing in an open field. You get the least SPL this way, but with enough power and displacement you can compensate and get decent bass. I am guessing they may have tuned it to drop out the bass with the top down to prevent the distortion from people trying to turn it up but the system not being able to put out the kind of power needed.

Thanks for the detailed explanation! I agree about why they probably did this (to limit people cranking it up to compensate, then blowing the speakers). My Orion is paired with a 300 watt mono amp and has a ton of power, so I don't foresee any issues blowing it. I just want to make sure I disable any bass blocking features built in for the benefit of the shitty stock system.

 

[Hilfloskind]

So I took some stuff apart, and found something interesting. For those that hate visible mods, the Rockford Fosgate PBR300X1 is about the same size as the stock sub amp.

See the mock up image. Just a thought if you, like me, hate amp racks, and want to go as stealth as possible.

Furthermore, this amp requires 30A fused power. The stock circuit is rated for 30A with a 30A fuse in the fuse box (fuse 5).

This is exactly what I want to do. How did the wiring go? We're you able to just reuse the existing power and speaker wires? I just bought an RF Punch sub to replace the factory subwoofer for my Shaker Pro and want to also swap the factory sub in the same location, preferably without doing any new wiring.

Sponsored