Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[NickD1]

DSR1 owners
Is anyone else having issues with the sound cutting out while driving (I am pretty sure the unit is boot looping)
Audio controls stop working on the radio and faint turnon like pops can be herd every little while
I have tried updating it several times (2018 eco with 9 speaker)

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[Cathul]

Nope. Not here. Rock stable in my system.

 

[Mustang#3]

Hello all. I've decided to dip my foot back into the mobile audio pool after a decade. I've read through this thread several times and the information is outstanding. Great job to all contributors. Here's my situation... 2015 GT 9 speaker setup. I intend to replace all speakers and add a sub. I have an Alpine PDX-5 on the shelf which will handle my power requirements. My dilemma is the sub signal. I also have an Audiocontrol DQL-8 on the shelf, but that seems to be overkill, as the main signals are already convertible directly to RCAs from the HU. So, I scrapped the idea of using the DQL-8. Using the conventional method described in this thread would mean the 4 RCA inputs to the amp then tapping off one of the speaker outputs with a LOC for the sub signal. My question is, how about splitting the HU signal for one of the RCA plugs... splicing two RCA's off it. One to the designated front location position on the amp and one to the sub position. Am I getting my logic twisted? Won't this deliver the same signal and just be filtered down? Thanks.

 

[Emilbadal]

As far as I can tell, Alpine PDX-5 is a 5ch amp so as long as you run those 4ch RCAs from the HU,the amp should give you the 5th channel sub output. There shouldn't be any need for LOCs.

 

[Mustang#3]

As far as I can tell, Alpine PDX-5 is a 5ch amp so as long as you run those 4ch RCAs from the HU,the amp should give you the 5th channel sub output. There shouldn't be any need for LOCs.

Thank you for the reply. What you state makes sense. I wasn't completely sure of the internal signal path (other than the obvious 5 in, 5 out) and it's just never addressed in any paperwork I can find.

 

[chowman90]

Have a question. Want to run a Dayton DSP using harnesses from Hextal. I purchased the connectors that bypass the factory amp/processor. I've replaced my tweeters and 6.5 door speakers as well as the 3.5 doors. I don't want to run the rears but also add a sub.

First - any idea the which is the positive and negative speakers wires coming from Hextall's harnesses?
Second - any idea how to wire the DSP to the amps? I have a dedicated sub amp, and two 4 channel amps.

Any responses are much appreciated. My car is all apart. LOL

 

[NickD1]

where are you in Canada? I live GTA area

 

[POJ 1]

Can someone please tell me how I can play my radio continuously. while I am, say cleaning my Bullitt.
If I use the accessories setting on the ignition, the music automatically stops after about 10 minutes
Many thks

 

[chowman90]

where are you in Canada? I live GTA area

I live in Vancouver

 

[TicTocTach]

Can someone please tell me how I can play my radio continuously. while I am, say cleaning my Bullitt.
If I use the accessories setting on the ignition, the music automatically stops after about 10 minutes
Many thks

I think rather than using the accessory button, you use the "music" power button in the infotainment stack. In my premium trim EBPP, the key doesn't even need to be in the car, but the stereo did sync with the bluetooth on my phone and I was able to play the radio for 15+ minutes. Even stayed on when I got out of the car - I didn't think it would do that.

 

[Mustang#3]

Hello all. I've decided to dip my foot back into the mobile audio pool after a decade. I've read through this thread several times and the information is outstanding. Great job to all contributors. Here's my situation... 2015 GT 9 speaker setup. I intend to replace all speakers and add a sub. I have an Alpine PDX-5 on the shelf which will handle my power requirements. My dilemma is the sub signal. I also have an Audiocontrol DQL-8 on the shelf, but that seems to be overkill, as the main signals are already convertible directly to RCAs from the HU. So, I scrapped the idea of using the DQL-8. Using the conventional method described in this thread would mean the 4 RCA inputs to the amp then tapping off one of the speaker outputs with a LOC for the sub signal. My question is, how about splitting the HU signal for one of the RCA plugs... splicing two RCA's off it. One to the designated front location position on the amp and one to the sub position. Am I getting my logic twisted? Won't this deliver the same signal and just be filtered down? Thanks.

Just an update on this situation. The Alpine PDX-5 will not pick up the sub input from the other 4 channels internally, so I installed a Y-cable RCA plug to split the signal for the right rear input, sharing it with the subwoofer. Works perfect. I installed Morel components up forward, left the center disconnected, and put Morel coaxial in the back deck. I utilized the passive crossovers provided by Morel, as my 56 year old ears don't have the finesse required to set up an active system (and it's less expensive this way.) Thanks for all the information provided on this thread. It has been invaluable.

 

[WILDB]

I'm installing a Shaker Pro sub that I have on hand, our RHD cars are already wired and just need a cable, which I have ordered.

Does anyone know whether there are particular versions of the C* prefix DSPs that are required for Sync 3, or isn't there a difference?

I can only find CK prefix DSPs which seem to predate Sync 3.

I can't buy a new one as they will only sell them on an exchange basis and I only have a B prefix DSP, so I'm stuck having to buy second hand.

 

[Rickster]

Thought I would take a shot at making a conversion harness diagram for those wanting to upgrade from base to factory 9 channel + Factory sub. I found that there are some great deals on eBay for used factory parts.
I would appreciate it if someone who has done this could look this over?

[edit] Revised to rev 1.0.3 - found a few wrong routings

Thanks!
Rick

 

[Emilbadal]

Hi guys, I have a question regarding the ACM power on and off time after opening the door. Is there a way to extend the time that the logo stays on before turning the ignition ON? (Maybe Forscan?)
The reason that I’m asking is, I get the aftermarket Amplifier popping sound if the ACM times out after displaying the logo. Initially when I open the door there’s no popping sound, and if I turn the ignition\engine ON before screen timeout I won’t get any Pop. But if I delay turning the ignition ON, the sync 3 logo demo times out and the screen shutsdown, and I hear a popping sound when the ACM turns off. I am using a PAC TR-4 to use the factory 6v trigger wire to send 12v remote turn on to my amps. This happens also for turning Off the ignition and the mustang logo screen times out. If I shut off the car and get out before the screen time out I won’t hear any popping sound. But if I delay getting out, I will hear the Speakers’ pop. Any help will be appreciated, thanks in advance

 

[Rickster]

I have been reading this thread for the last few days as time permits. I am a little over 1/2 way thought now.
One question that comes to mind, and that I have not seen answered yet is about base model mustangs (in my case a 2016 v6 base model) converting to the factory 12 channel DSP/Amp.
On the base model, there is a single channel routed to each of the doors directly from the ACM. These are then split between the A pillar tweeter, and the 6.5" door mounted woofer (full range). Once you redirect the ACM line outs to the factory DSP/Amp, you get an additional channel that runs to the door. Are the base models pre-wired for this extra channel in the door, or will I need to route those new leads myself? from what I have read, running wires to the door is a tough job...

Thanks,
Rick

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