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Michael_vroomvroom

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Sorry, I've scanned through the install instructions from FP for the rear springs now, and see they are replaced quite differently (and easier?) than the front, so you're right of course.

Thanks.
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kz

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The magneride set comes with new rear springs too though, so how did you go about installing them without removing the rear mounts?

Turning the wrenches manually makes me feel more connected to the car, so I prefer that. ;-)

Also although Vorshlag recommends using an impact gun, I also see reports of that not always working out so well for the struts, though possibly that has only affected other cars. I also note Bilstein advices against it: https://www.bilstein.com/uk/en/blog/watch-avoid-installation-mistakes/
I've certainly removed rear mounts - but all they need is regular metric socket - either 15 or 18 mm. In the suspension Ford almost exclusively used 13, 15, 18 and 21 mm head size fasteners. I can't recall 19mm being used anywhere.

(I meant - I did not remove rear mounts from the shock - you unbolt the mount from the car body together with the shock)
 

kz

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Sorry, I've scanned through the install instructions from FP for the rear springs now, and see they are replaced quite differently (and easier?) than the front, so you're right of course.

Thanks.
Ford instructions essentially tell you to remove Lower Control Arm if I remember - CJ Pony's method (look up one of their videos of swapping springs) is much easier - unbolt the shock, lower subrame a bit and pull the spring out.
 

Michael_vroomvroom

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Thanks again. Will have a look at the CJ Pony video. All videos I've seen from them with that big guy have been really good.
 

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if you loosen the IRS you might as well shove the BMR/Steeda alignment dowels in there so the positioning is indexable from then on out.

Tightening the clamp nut that holds the shock shaft to the shock mount can be done with an impact as long as it doesn't get carried away and just spin the shaft. I desperately wish Steeda would get with their supplier and have them mill wrench flats in the shaft.
 

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Michael_vroomvroom

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if you loosen the IRS you might as well shove the BMR/Steeda alignment dowels in there so the positioning is indexable from then on out.
Thank you, I'll get those too if i go ahead.
 

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if you loosen the IRS you might as well shove the BMR/Steeda alignment dowels in there so the positioning is indexable from then on out.

Tightening the clamp nut that holds the shock shaft to the shock mount can be done with an impact as long as it doesn't get carried away and just spin the shaft. I desperately wish Steeda would get with their supplier and have them mill wrench flats in the shaft.
But then what would they do with all of these sockets?
 

HeelToeHero

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Thank you for that warning.

Can anyone confirm 2018+ is also 15mm (Magneride, not sure if it's different), and front is 21mm?

I am wondering since the Steeda page does not list 15mm, only 17mm-22mm.

Alternatively, is there some more generic tool one can buy for this?

I understand an impact wrench set to pulse can also be used for the this particular task (shocks), but I don't have one.
You don't need the special socket for the rear because the large nut is not recessed like it is on the front.
 

Capital_M

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I'm confused why you need this for the rears at all ?

I saw a CJ video where Bill removed the top nut with just a ratcheting box wrench
 

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pfm685

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Sorry to resurrect an old thread.

Ordered Bilstein B6s front and rear and doing my research on install. Bilstein instructions seem vague on the top nut sizes. Are these sockets needed to do a swap from stock GT shocks/struts to B6? As others have stated, most install videos show front top hat install by just power ratcheting the heck out the nut with the shaft held by pliers, which seems sufficient, but not ideal. If someone has advice on top nut socket size or alternate method with existing tools it would be appreciated..
 

NeverSatisfied

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Sorry to resurrect an old thread.

Ordered Bilstein B6s front and rear and doing my research on install. Bilstein instructions seem vague on the top nut sizes. Are these sockets needed to do a swap from stock GT shocks/struts to B6? As others have stated, most install videos show front top hat install by just power ratcheting the heck out the nut with the shaft held by pliers, which seems sufficient, but not ideal. If someone has advice on top nut socket size or alternate method with existing tools it would be appreciated..
Method one - poor man's strut socket - B6 takes an allen key on the tip of the strut shaft. From memory, the supplied nut fits one of the extremely common spark plug sockets. Most spark plug sockets have a hex on the end. Start the nut on the shaft then install the socket. Slip an Allen key through the opening for the 3/8" socket drive to engage and hold the shaft from turning. Tighten the socket with a wrench.

Method two - hold the shaft with a nitrile glove for grip and give it an ugga dugga with the cordless of your choice.
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