SPRING RATES & DROPS: ALL IN ONE THREAD!!

SVO MkII

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Am i correct by saying camber plates arent needed with the minimal drop springs?
It's also important to note what your objectives are. I installed the FP Track pack suspension, which results in approx 1" drop. With this drop, I was only able to achieve about -1.5 deg camber in front (-2 deg rear). I installed BMR camber bolts to add another deg of negative camber up front (-2.5 deg total). This is sufficient for a street/HPDE car. But if it was a serious track car, I'd need to install camber plates to acheve -3 or -3.5 deg up front.

On the other hand, if the car will never see the track, you probably want stock settings. I believe camber bolts could also be used with a lowered car to reduce negative camber, FWIW.
 

HeelToeHero

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It's also important to note what your objectives are. I installed the FP Track pack suspension, which results in approx 1" drop. With this drop, I was only able to achieve about -1.5 deg camber in front (-2 deg rear). I installed BMR camber bolts to add another deg of negative camber up front (-2.5 deg total). This is sufficient for a street/HPDE car. But if it was a serious track car, I'd need to install camber plates to acheve -3 or -3.5 deg up front.

On the other hand, if the car will never see the track, you probably want stock settings. I believe camber bolts could also be used with a lowered car to reduce negative camber, FWIW.
I thought about bolts but with 10 in wheels and 285 tires up front it didn't look like there was room.
 

Rick#7

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How do you deal with the tramlining on the street having 305's up front?
 

SVO MkII

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How do you deal with the tramlining on the street having 305's up front?
I only run the 305s for track days (they are Supercar 3Rs, super soft). Street wheels are the stock 19x9s with 265s, Firestone Indy 500s.
 

NightmareMoon

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How do you deal with the tramlining on the street having 305's up front?
tramlining is really dependent on the road conditions, tire width, tread pattern, and remaining tread. 305 MP4S probably wont tramline as bad as 305 RT660s (due to tread design), and old bald tires will tramline more easily than new ones.

in my experience, new aggressive 305s don’t tramline that bad (the fresh rubber on the tread blocks allow them to squirm), but old bald ones - watch out!

yeah 305s are worse overall than 285s, which aint too bad, but worse overall than 255s etc, but old bald 255s are going to tramline too.

if you want to micro-nap on the highway, avoid the 305s. If you want to corner really hard, and often, its well worth the tradeoff.
 

bnightstar

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I only run the 305s for track days (they are Supercar 3Rs, super soft). Street wheels are the stock 19x9s with 265s, Firestone Indy 500s.
How long your Supercar 3Rs last As I plan to buy Supersport R (80TW for my car). Feel free to answer in PM so we don't highjack this tread :)
 

SVO MkII

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I think this question has probably been asked before, but is there a good reference source to identify the difference between different OEM springs, that shows the part numbers? For example, I have rear springs from my '18 EB PP that are marked "JRH". The rear springs on my '17 GT Vert are marked "RRL". I'd like to know exactly how they differ, if at all. FWIW, I put a caliper on them and they appear to be exactly the same diameter. Thanks.
 

P51GT5.0

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The Motion ratio on the S550 is pretty bad compared to other cars. This is why you need so much more rear spring compared to the front.

For example,....I am going to be running 1,600-1,800lb rear springs and 650-750lb front spring for AutoX.

Simmons
Without searching the rest of this thread...curious how that worked out for you. I had a true coilover (F&R) suspension with 550lb front springs, and felt it was oversprung
Was going to move down to 450 lb./in. (car got totalled).
 

illtal

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Does anyone know the spring rate on the Steeda Rear Drag springs?
 

Austin1992

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illtal

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