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Something like this happened to me and it sounded like it was directly behind me. It's probably something around the wheel wheels or body of the car. Flood it to 70 and stomp on the brakes. It will dislodge anything rattling around.

Well I’m not sure about labor time changes but my point was it can easily be done at a dealer. Reflashing a module and initializing it should have a fixed book time. Any book times I’ve seen in ford documents have been the same. 0.3 to 0.7 hours. Removal and replacement looks like it’s 0.9-1.4...

The original programmer has nothing to do with it. You may need to pull the PCM but that’s not hard… regardless all they have to do is erase the PCM and reload the original firmware. Any ford authorized dealer/shop should have access to this firmware. I’ve seen multiple people ‘brick’ their PCM...

That sounds more like he is familiar with Lund's tuning setup.. and he was going to do it the easy way using their software. If he wanted to, he 100% could have erased the module and reflashed the stock tune.

For safety recalls, I think there's actually laws about this. I don't think they have to ask for permission. I'm sure I've read they don't have to inform you prior to carrying out the fix. However, I doubt any dealer would increase their workload by flashing the car back to stock just to read...

Ford has always been able to reflash your PCM. They just can't read a scrambled OSID, so can't read what the car actually is... Lund does this so you can't read the tune, but it doesn't stop you from erasing the bootloader and reflashing the PCM with the original tune. To pull this tune they...

Also, I think the mustangs at the Bathurst 6 hour are stock coyotes? I’m not sure how they’ve faired but I’d assume the diff is a weaker link than the engine in its stock config.

Like I said, it all depends on the use case and the amount you detune it. Also, 24hr Nurburgring isn’t a good comparison for other tracks. The track itself is actually very easy on the engine and brakes since you’re getting so much cooling. How did those cars blow engines? Rods from gen1...

I thought the rods changed to forged (from the boss 302) gen 1 to gen 2. Forged pistons in the base s650 would be surprising. edit* double checked and rods were changed to forged stiner rods from the 302. Not sure if the gt500 are the same, but marketing wise I guess it sounds better to say the...

The rods were updated gen 1 to gen 2 coyote. I'm pretty sure the pistons are the weak point for most road racing applications. Also, track time vs drag racing isn't really the same stress on the motor. Most gt4 motors get about 20k-30k km max, and they are pretty heavily detuned. The amount...

Yeah I am going to flush or wash the system over the next month. I need to get the system above 200 for prolonged time but it’s hard in the winter (and I’m in Texas). Might have to tape off the front or something. The trans doesn’t feel bad, so I’d be surprised if it’s going to fail soon...

Also I’m going to drain and refill another 5-10 qts over the next 1000 miles to try and get more of the old fluid out. I know there's a way to actively pump it through and flush the system but I don’t have the system for that.

You’re saying old oxidized fluid doesn’t loose some of its properties? I hit 255 2x and it pulls power at 250. Trans felt fine after cooling and has no day to day issues. According to people I know with failed 10r80s, mine doesn’t seem to have any issues like they did. There are no...

I had metal but normal amounts compared to others I’ve seen. Nothing freely floating, all on the 2 magnets (trans pan and filter). I used a syringe from hf to drain and refill. Took forever so I made a dispenser using some metal tubing and pump. I got 7-8qts out when I pulled pan and went...

I was really surprised by how the dipstick looked vs how it looked drained. Im changing the fluid and filter hoping it helps temps on track. I’ve hit 255ish after pushing and the temps accelerate upwards based on how hard you drive it. Other than temps on track Ive had minimal issues. Every...

Yeah I know that’s why I tagged you lol. I want something like the 140-160 you described since I daily my car. Also I’ve been hesitant to pull the core body, but I just looked at it when I changed my trans fluid. I thought it would be a lot more intimidating and difficult to get to.

Is it something custom you’re making or an aftermarket company? Hope it works, the stock thermostat gives you such a narrow temp window.

I’m not completely sure if the 10L80 use the same type of thermostat as the 10R80, but it looks like they recently dropped the thermostat temp from 190-200F to 160-170F. I’m assuming it’s all controlled by the valve body thermostat. Anyone familiar with both trans know if the thermostats are...

Car is off, engine still warm. Made this noise a few times, but seems to have stopped. Is it the AC? Or something else I should be worried about?

What surface is this on? You said you changed the suspension and this started? Did you align it? If so what was prior setup vs now? TC cuts are very noticeable, advancetrac is less noticeable and can modulates brakes based on yaw rate.