Spring install estimate.... WTF?!

[ForTehNguyen]

yes youll need a single action clamshell type compressor for the front struts.

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[cbass]

How much does one of those cost? Just saying, if you have the rest of the tools, but no spring compressor, it's not a simple free job.

 

[HISSMAN]

$65 dolla

http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

 

[Driversound]

Thats cheap, sometimes they charge more as you have to drop the sub frame

I didn't drop the whole subframe when I installed my springs. The rear install was cake compared to the fronts. Those strut bolts were stuck and not much swing room for the hammer.

 

[Cascadia_302]

I didn't drop the whole subframe when I installed my springs. The rear install was cake compared to the fronts. Those strut bolts were stuck and not much swing room for the hammer.

I've heard everything from the rears being a pain- to the fronts being easir and vise-versa.
So you just loosened the 4 subframe bolts enough to pull the springs? On the video's l've seen they make seem like you need to really reef down on the subframe to get the springs to come out.:shrug:
Since l'm one of the lucky owners with a misaligned subframe l'll still need to at drop it to put the subframe alignment bushings in.:frusty:
For the fronts l'll use my impact gun for the splined strut bolts if they won't come out with the BFH method.

 

[Dominant1]

Op What was your solution? Did you send the parts back and trade your car in on a gt -350 which comes lowered?

 

[Shouldhavegotthegt]

I've heard everything from the rears being a pain- to the fronts being easir and vise-versa.
So you just loosened the 4 subframe bolts enough to pull the springs? On the video's l've seen they make seem like you need to really reef down on the subframe to get the springs to come out.:shrug:
Since l'm one of the lucky owners with a misaligned subframe l'll still need to at drop it to put the subframe alignment bushings in.:frusty:
For the fronts l'll use my impact gun for the splined strut bolts if they won't come out with the BFH method.

Loosen the bolts. I took out the subframe bolts on the side I was lowering. You have to completely remove the bolts to put in the bushings anyways. I installed the subframe bushing and alignment kit from steeda at the same time.

For the front. I thought getting the strut out was the easiest part. Take off the strut bolt and then flip the bolt and hand tighten it. Tap it with a hammer and it pops out. At least mine did.

 

[z06psi]

Almost as bad as quote for a ProCharger install I got a few months ago.

OMG!!!

 

[HISSMAN]

Heck, if anyone needs a procharger installed, I'll do it for a case of good craft beer (Bottles only) and $200. Hell, I even have a dynojet sitting in my barn I can drag out.

 

[Driversound]

I've heard everything from the rears being a pain- to the fronts being easir and vise-versa.
So you just loosened the 4 subframe bolts enough to pull the springs? On the video's l've seen they make seem like you need to really reef down on the subframe to get the springs to come out.:shrug:
Since l'm one of the lucky owners with a misaligned subframe l'll still need to at drop it to put the subframe alignment bushings in.:frusty:
For the fronts l'll use my impact gun for the splined strut bolts if they won't come out with the BFH method.

I did the bushings and cradle lockout install at the same time so I just loosened all four bolts and completely removed them on the side I was working on to get the bushings in. It's a really good idea to get at least the cradle lockout installed with the coils. For just the coils, you don't have to touch the cradle/subframe bolts.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/SP080.pdf

The fronts took more time since my strut bolts (two lower bolts attached to the knuckle) were stuck. It's not the nuts that are stuck, it's the bolts. These have to be pounded out or use an air hammer to get them out. There's not much room between the bolts and the fender well to get momentum. I suggest take off the wheels the night before and spray these bolts with some kind of penetrating lubricant.

Once you get the whole strut assembly out, it's just a matter of compressing the coils out and getting new ones in. Assembly and install is much quicker than the removal. Also a good time to replace one of the strut bolt with a camber bolt for adjustment.

In my opinion, the mods below are the minimal mods that needs to be done to have a good daily driver and enjoy the car more.
1) Better shifter - get rid of the factory sloppy shifter
2) Cradle bushing lockout - stiffens up the rear end
3) Coil replacement - gets rid of the float feel

 

[ForTehNguyen]

I've heard everything from the rears being a pain- to the fronts being easir and vise-versa.
So you just loosened the 4 subframe bolts enough to pull the springs? On the video's l've seen they make seem like you need to really reef down on the subframe to get the springs to come out.:shrug:
Since l'm one of the lucky owners with a misaligned subframe l'll still need to at drop it to put the subframe alignment bushings in.:frusty:
For the fronts l'll use my impact gun for the splined strut bolts if they won't come out with the BFH method.

loosen only one side at a time. If you havent done any rear IRS strengthening or diff bushing inserts, do this at the same time. Rears were easy, could do the rear springs and shocks in under 1.5 hours. Fronts took me 3 hours

 

[Dntalman]

Almost as bad as quote for a ProCharger install I got a few months ago.

When people try to stick it to honest people, it makes me sick.. EVERY TIME A SHOP DOES THIS, WE SHOULD POST THE NAME AND ADDRESS.. They think because you are there you know nothing!

 

[daltron]

When people try to stick it to honest people, it makes me sick.. EVERY TIME A SHOP DOES THIS, WE SHOULD POST THE NAME AND ADDRESS.. They think because you are there you know nothing!

https://www.yelp.com/biz/db-performance-engineering-whittier

http://www.manta.com/c/mmsv53h/d-b-performance-engineering

I went to him back when I was thinking centri. He is nuts. He charged my neighbor $3xx for a dyno pull then told him he could do better than the canned SCT tune (which, I believe anyone can). He then charged him another $300 and his dyno read in the high 400's, I forgot what it was but I think 470 RWHP? My neighbor's mods are... JLT CAI and... JLT CAI. So CAI and DB's "custom tune" said he had some 470 RWHP or something at the wheels.

I will never take my business there.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Well, shit. I've had my SP080s since Monday, sitting in the box, tried a couple of local options, first a pretty good shop, does modern and some classic work - I guess they use a service system for typical estimates, they came up with 5.5 hours, too much at their rate.

Originally, my local Ford dealer said about 4 hours, then I called back to schedule and it was up to 5 hours @ $115/hr, too much.

I posted in the local Florida section, hoping someone would know a shop, even a person willing to do it, no luck so far.

After reading through this, I'm super tempted just to do it myself, I'm a decent wrench turner, I'd need a spring compressor though that seems cheap. I have tools, some rino ramps, stands, a good 2.5 ton floor jack. Looks like a few torque specs missing from that BMR install guide posted above, like the caliper bolts, I'm sure those are easy to find.

I don't daily drive the car, but I might have a sudden situation where I need it (just local use within 10 miles or so) ...

... I'm assuming it wouldn't be crazy to drive it with just the fronts or just the rears done, figured I'd do it over a couple of days.

 

[cbass]

Well, shit. I've had my SP080s since Monday, sitting in the box, tried a couple of local options, first a pretty good shop, does modern and some classic work - I guess they use a service system for typical estimates, they came up with 5.5 hours, too much at their rate.

Originally, my local Ford dealer said about 4 hours, then I called back to schedule and it was up to 5 hours @ $115/hr, too much.

I posted in the local Florida section, hoping someone would know a shop, even a person willing to do it, no luck so far.

After reading through this, I'm super tempted just to do it myself, I'm a decent wrench turner, I'd need a spring compressor though that seems cheap. I have tools, some rino ramps, stands, a good 2.5 ton floor jack.

I don't daily drive the car, but I might have a sudden situation where I need it (just local use within 10 miles or so) ...

... I'm assuming it wouldn't be crazy to drive it with just the fronts or just the rears done, figured I'd do it over a couple of days.

Buy a second jack and just drop the rear subframe. It's 18 bolts total you have to remove. The 2 bolts holding the brake lines, the 8 bolts on the shocks, the 4 smaller front brace bolts, and the 4 subframe bolts. I could do it by myself in about an hour.

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