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Spring install price?

Renner

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If any in IL wants springs done for a 2015 mustang I do them for $200 to install all 4 and it takes 2-3 hours
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MikeyPee

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After installing mine on jackstands, I could probably do a new install in about 3-4 hours. That's what sucks about stuff like this. You figure the sh!t out, and never use that knowledge again lol
 

hawkbox

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Do that in your garage if you have the tools - its not that "difficult" to complete....I got quotes for install on my coils at 600 not including alignment....PFffftttt....Half that will buy you a compressor and air wrench if you dont have it.

My buddy and I did it in the garage in 5 hours with a burger break!

Just buy decent spring compressors. If you have done springs or suspension work on other cars - this thing isn't any different.
 

davidw76

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Do that in your garage if you have the tools - its not that "difficult" to complete....I got quotes for install on my coils at 600 not including alignment....PFffftttt....Half that will buy you a compressor and air wrench if you dont have it.

My buddy and I did it in the garage in 5 hours with a burger break!

Just buy decent spring compressors. If you have done springs or suspension work on other cars - this thing isn't any different.
I have done it on a Jeep, but that was easy because of the solid axles front and rear. What scares me on this car...

1. no "ideal" way to jack the car up onto stands.. OK so I can place the jack alongside the stand and I guess that will work but I kind of hate doing it that way and lifting the second side of the car with the first side resting on the stand already

2. the splined bolts on the front... worried I will stuff them up with the hammer. People on here saying they needed a torch, etc.

3. BMR instructions say the usual method of lowering the sub-frame is not possible unless you have a lift. I for sure don't want to remove my control arms like they suggest because I know I would never be able to get them properly torqued up again so if this is true it is a showstopper for me. But I assume other people have done this without issues (lowered sub-frame on floor jack)?

4. even if I can lower the sub-frame down.. it looks like there's hardly any clearance to get the springs out, even with the sub-frame fully lowered.. It even looked like Bill from CJPP struggled with it in his video and I'm not as big as Bill and don't have a lift! Also, people have commented on this forum that it is very difficult to get them out and they needed one person to stand on the control arm while another person pulled the spring out.

All in all.. it sounds like a real pain
 

Quiksilver15

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Shop labor isn't cheap, I would say the average shop is going to charge 3 hours of install. That's at $100 and hour minimum. Read up and watch the install videos. The front is cake, you can rent spring compressors at your local autozone for free. The rear is unchartered waters for me, but with a good reliable jack and the car sitting on stands it will be cake.

One of the members did say that having someone pushing down on the control arm while mauvering out the spring will make it easier. Installing the new shorter spring is easy. I will be installing the Steeda IRS alignment kit at the same time as the springs.
 

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hawkbox

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I have done it on a Jeep, but that was easy because of the solid axles front and rear. What scares me on this car...

1. no "ideal" way to jack the car up onto stands.. OK so I can place the jack alongside the stand and I guess that will work but I kind of hate doing it that way and lifting the second side of the car with the first side resting on the stand already

2. the splined bolts on the front... worried I will stuff them up with the hammer. People on here saying they needed a torch, etc.

3. BMR instructions say the usual method of lowering the sub-frame is not possible unless you have a lift. I for sure don't want to remove my control arms like they suggest because I know I would never be able to get them properly torqued up again so if this is true it is a showstopper for me. But I assume other people have done this without issues (lowered sub-frame on floor jack)?

4. even if I can lower the sub-frame down.. it looks like there's hardly any clearance to get the springs out, even with the sub-frame fully lowered.. It even looked like Bill from CJPP struggled with it in his video and I'm not as big as Bill and don't have a lift! Also, people have commented on this forum that it is very difficult to get them out and they needed one person to stand on the control arm while another person pulled the spring out.

All in all.. it sounds like a real pain
Its work - no lie, but its not as hard as it sounds, and if you did this on a 4x4, you are WAY ahead of the game. My FJ Was a major Pain in the backside with way more to disconnect and drop out than my GT.

If you have 2 stands and do either the front or rear half first, or have 4 jack stands and put the whole thing up, there are already body jack points in the front just behind the tires and in the rear just in front of the tires. My recomendation, be it what it is, do a half of the car at a time. The jack points arent a big deal and they arent any issue to hold your car up.

Get a 5 pound hand sledge, the spline bolts aren't any big deal, they just take some force to beat out of there - and I do mean a bit of force. The top bolt took me a few minutes to beat on and get out. You will get a pit of your stomach or uncomfortable feeling doing it because everything is telling you its the wrong way to do the job - its not, you will just have to beat on it. A torch would help, but its not needed. Since you are reusing it, you dont want to heat your strut too much and cause an issue.

You absolutely can lower the sub frame, do one side at a time. Put the car on the stands, put a small piece of wood on your floor jack, and move the jack up to but not lifting the car on the subframe on corner you are working on. You can do this just inside of the lower spring perch. Unbolt the front and rear craddle bolts (BIG ASS BLUE BOLTS) and slowly let the floor jack down. you will want to leave the jack in place so you can get it back up easily when done.

You will need to apply some doward force on teh cradle to get the spring out. My friend is not he-man, he pushed down and I pulled the spring out. It also will take a little bit of force but not so much that you are going to tweak metal parts. You can push pretty damn hard before you do any damage.

I do not have a lift

You do not need to and shouldn't take all 4 bolts down to do this - dont take all 4 down.

jack the craddle back up and bolt all the stuff back together.

I dont have a lift. This was not that hard - it took about 45 mins the first side, and 10 on the other.

If you complete this yourself, you have intimate knowledge of your vehicle, and saved a metric shit tonne of federal reserve notes (dollars) and had some fun and some tears with a buddy.

You will need the tools, if you have a compressor and air ratchet you will take half as long and spend half the effort - it is really almost a need, but as others have done its not necessary.

Cheers :cheers:
 

davidw76

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Thanks that's very helpful.. I was going to place my jack stands in the spots you mention, my concern is more about where to place the jack itself to lift up the car.. Most people seem to think that placing it alongside the stand is best but I would prefer to lift up the entire rear/front end in one go so I am not twisting the car or pivoting it on the stand. I was thinking I might risk using the pumpkin at the rear but no idea about the front. Maybe placing it alongside the stand is best (jacking up one side at a time)?

I guess when BMR say it's not possible to lower the subframe without a lift they mean the entire subframe. Sounds like lowering one side at a time is no problem on a floor jack. Did you have to remove your exhaust?
 

MikeyPee

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Do that in your garage if you have the tools - its not that "difficult" to complete....I got quotes for install on my coils at 600 not including alignment....PFffftttt....Half that will buy you a compressor and air wrench if you dont have it.

My buddy and I did it in the garage in 5 hours with a burger break!

Just buy decent spring compressors. If you have done springs or suspension work on other cars - this thing isn't any different.
Good spring compressors is key. I used some old school crap from like 78. Probably added an hour to the install time
 

hawkbox

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Thanks that's very helpful.. I was going to place my jack stands in the spots you mention, my concern is more about where to place the jack itself to lift up the car.. Most people seem to think that placing it alongside the stand is best but I would prefer to lift up the entire rear/front end in one go so I am not twisting the car or pivoting it on the stand. I was thinking I might risk using the pumpkin at the rear but no idea about the front. Maybe placing it alongside the stand is best (jacking up one side at a time)?

I guess when BMR say it's not possible to lower the subframe without a lift they mean the entire subframe. Sounds like lowering one side at a time is no problem on a floor jack. Did you have to remove your exhaust?

I put the jack right next to the stand...it didnt have any issues, no twisting...

if you are concerned, take a small piece of 2/4, use a saw and cut a slit in it wide enough for the body rail pinch point and put that on the jack.

No need to take exhaust down, its not in the way. And yeah, only pull half the cradle down at a time.
 

davidw76

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I put the jack right next to the stand...it didnt have any issues, no twisting...

if you are concerned, take a small piece of 2/4, use a saw and cut a slit in it wide enough for the body rail pinch point and put that on the jack.

No need to take exhaust down, its not in the way. And yeah, only pull half the cradle down at a time.
Thanks! I am definitely going to do it myself.. don't want to pay hundreds of dollars and miss the chance to learn a bunch of stuff that might be useful later. Some local guys who have done their own have offered to help to so I think I am good to go.
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