Single Bucket Wash Method

[DFB5.0]

I like Pan’s videos, and who cares if he gets paid to advertise, he works his ass off. If anyone thinks shooting and editing two-three videos a week is easy work I suggest you try it, build your brand, get tens of thousands of followers, and then report back to us how easy it was.

Successful people don’t waste time criticizing those who are unwilling to put in work.

Very well said.

The time it takes for me to shoot a 30 second video, edit and then upload it is not the work of moment. Not to mention the thousands and thousands of words I type on this subject every week. So I can fully appreciate the effort Pan would be putting into his videos and other content. To be paid to do so, be that from Youtube or via sponsors, well that's the ultimate goal I suppose. I wish I could do the same.

From a personal perspective, I find I don't get much out of Pan's content, mainly because I'm looking for a more hands and opinionated type of video rather than just talking about the product or process. Chances are I already know how to do that process or have already read the manufactures product information.

In terms of providing an opinion on any given product, I can say from experience that it's a very fine line to tread. Be too critical and you risk upsetting the manufacturer, and potentially effecting your relationship with the brand going forward, or even get to a point where the brands won't want you reviewing their products. Be too positive, and you risk having your creditability questioned or seen as a brown-noser.

Not that I was sent this product for free, but I actually got word that I may have upset the owner of a particular leather care brand by not being fully positive in my initial usage notes on one of their products. Those notes were published at some point last year, but I only found this out a few months ago. When I went back and read what I had written, along with a follow up post where I adapted my technique and got much better results, my review notes were fair and positive in the end. But, I guess humans tend to focus on the negative by default. If was paid for that review, then it would have likely been my last from that company. As I said, a fine line.

Sponsored

 

[DFB5.0]

Be careful with dish soap.

Not positive on this, but I think over time they may eat away at the coating on the paint on your wheels. I know dish soap is harsh on car paint over time.

Dish soap isn’t acidic but it will strip any gloss enhancers.

Dish soap is typically alkaline and has the same ability to degrade or corrode with prolonged exposure. Granted, that is not unique to dish soap, and the exposure per wash is minimal, but you get the idea. From a practical point of view, there are far more effective products you can use to wash or strip wash your car with.

The below thread explains this further, likewise the linked video -

"........ instead of removing the wax, the detergent is actually coating it with something else, disguising the wax or sealant still remaining underneath.........."

.......the whole use of dish washing liquid really is counter intuitive. The whole point of the exercise is to strip or remove paint contamination and waxes. Except, you end up doing the complete opposite as dish wash by nature is designed to leave something behind........."

(2) Dawn Dish Washing Detergent As A Strip Wash | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

 

[kilobravo]

D: I also don't watch Pan's stuff for the reason you mentioned.

Video: I think most of us go to video sites to to learn, whether that be about detailing, detailing products, changing intercooler bricks, or what have you. But, we generally don't continue watching a clip if it isn't providing the information for which we're searching.

As for Toobers and making easy money, <chuckling> that's pretty far from the truth these days. YT and all the other video sites have changed the monetization policy from what it was in the beginning when some DID and or are making a fortune, to a MUCH less lucrative system.

Yes, you can still make the big money but to do so, you need hundreds of thousands if not millions of subs and to get that far, you will have had to film, edit, and upload HUNDREDS of clips.

Brian hit the nail on the head..

If anyone thinks shooting and editing two-three videos a week is easy work I suggest you try it, build your brand, get tens of thousands of followers, and then report back to us how easy it was.

..and he is absolutely, positively correct.

I got into flying drones a few years ago and that meant dealing with video. I had to learn Adobe Premiere Pro (like Photoshop, you can't ever learn EVERYTHING about the software but you will spend MONTHS on the learning process.) It doesn't matter how good your video editing software is either, it's still a tedious and time-consuming endeavor.

You work with seconds and parts of seconds lining up video and audio and you will make change after change on tiny little aspects and in the end, for a 15-minute video, it might have taken five people a WEEK to finalize the clip. (Ever notice that even the big content providers only post once a week? Now you know why.)

Yes, you can do video with less complex software like iMovie on a Mac. Works fine and generates the proper output files but it's pretty limited when it comes to video enhancements.

Which brings me to the point of your costs as a video producer. In order to use Adobe products, you are forced to get on their subscription tit to the tune of at least $25/mo to as much as almost $100/mo for the Full Monte.

An individual will have a very hard time getting to the Bigs and most have to hire others to help with specific parts of the process. Any Toober who has more than a hundred thousand subscribers, definitely doesn't do it solo. You need an experienced camera person with good equipment, a video effects person, probably a producer if you're dealing with large product clients, and any number of other support people.

As Brian said, it ain't easy by any stretch of the word.

<Changing Subjects>

After the car washing is complete and the vehicle has been dried, at least for the S550 GT 500's, it is absolutely, positively imperative that you drive the vehicle AND give the brakes a good workout. Reason is, your rotors and pads will still have moisture and if you simply park the car when you're done, the rotors will start the rusting process and can easily freeze the car in position.

Then, when you go to back it out of the garage, the car won't want to move. You give it a bit more throttle and BANG, the stuck pads will finally release and you'll have an ugly, perhaps even pitted, spot on your rotors. Ask me how I know. Never had this happen with a previous vehicle but I learned the hard way with the '20 500.

So be sure and get her on the road and warm up those brakes before you put her away. Those pizza plate fronts should be pristine and shiny.

<Changing Subjects again>

This one's for D..

I don't recall your workflow regarding whether you rinse before foaming or foam dry? I have always rinsed first but after reading Brian's comment..

The water and soap will encapsulate the surface dirt and pull it from the surface.

I wasn't aware of this fact and I'm planning on giving it a try next time but wanted your thoughts on this specific subject.

Thanks in advance..

 

[DFB5.0]

This one's for D..

I don't recall your workflow regarding whether you rinse before foaming or foam dry? I have always rinsed first but after reading Brian's comment..

I wasn't aware of this fact and I'm planning on giving it a try next time but wanted your thoughts on this specific subject.

Thanks in advance..

Depends on the car.

My Mustang is only ever dusty, maybe a few bugs. After doing the wheels, I rinse the car, apply the foam and then do the contact wash. Most of the dust ect is removed from the car during the rinse- stage.

On a dirtier car, I will foam from dry, allow to soak for as long as possible without drying, then rinse. I will then re-foam the car and do the contact wash.

In other words, one-size-fits-all doesn't apply here.

 

[skinnyb]

Since we're talking about buckets,................

How many guys here use the Rinseless wash method? I've seen a couple of posts mention it.
I use it on my daily driver with great results. What's makes it even more great is that I can use this technique and not worry about a frozen hose, especially in the colder months here in the Northeast.

I recently discovered rinseless method and have tried it a few times. My plan is to use in the colder months as well. My Mustang primarily stays parked unless the weather is nice so it doesn't get really dirty regardless of time of year. I have a bucket with the angled grit guard and a legacy sponge and ultra black sponge. Still trying a few products, I really like P&S Absolute, I have used DIY Detail rinseless, that one is nice because it foams well and I use as a pre foam soak just like with my foam canon. Just got a bottle of the Opticoat rinseless, it is Si02 infused, I will try it next time. I invested in all sizes of the Rag Company Gauntlet drying towels, very absorbent and soft on the paint. Works really well.

 

[Evolvd]

D: I also don't watch Pan's stuff for the reason you mentioned.

Video: I think most of us go to video sites to to learn, whether that be about detailing, detailing products, changing intercooler bricks, or what have you. But, we generally don't continue watching a clip if it isn't providing the information for which we're searching.

As for Toobers and making easy money, <chuckling> that's pretty far from the truth these days. YT and all the other video sites have changed the monetization policy from what it was in the beginning when some DID and or are making a fortune, to a MUCH less lucrative system.

Yes, you can still make the big money but to do so, you need hundreds of thousands if not millions of subs and to get that far, you will have had to film, edit, and upload HUNDREDS of clips.

Brian hit the nail on the head..



..and he is absolutely, positively correct.

I got into flying drones a few years ago and that meant dealing with video. I had to learn Adobe Premiere Pro (like Photoshop, you can't ever learn EVERYTHING about the software but you will spend MONTHS on the learning process.) It doesn't matter how good your video editing software is either, it's still a tedious and time-consuming endeavor.

You work with seconds and parts of seconds lining up video and audio and you will make change after change on tiny little aspects and in the end, for a 15-minute video, it might have taken five people a WEEK to finalize the clip. (Ever notice that even the big content providers only post once a week? Now you know why.)

Yes, you can do video with less complex software like iMovie on a Mac. Works fine and generates the proper output files but it's pretty limited when it comes to video enhancements.

Which brings me to the point of your costs as a video producer. In order to use Adobe products, you are forced to get on their subscription tit to the tune of at least $25/mo to as much as almost $100/mo for the Full Monte.

An individual will have a very hard time getting to the Bigs and most have to hire others to help with specific parts of the process. Any Toober who has more than a hundred thousand subscribers, definitely doesn't do it solo. You need an experienced camera person with good equipment, a video effects person, probably a producer if you're dealing with large product clients, and any number of other support people.

As Brian said, it ain't easy by any stretch of the word.

<Changing Subjects>

After the car washing is complete and the vehicle has been dried, at least for the S550 GT 500's, it is absolutely, positively imperative that you drive the vehicle AND give the brakes a good workout. Reason is, your rotors and pads will still have moisture and if you simply park the car when you're done, the rotors will start the rusting process and can easily freeze the car in position.

Then, when you go to back it out of the garage, the car won't want to move. You give it a bit more throttle and BANG, the stuck pads will finally release and you'll have an ugly, perhaps even pitted, spot on your rotors. Ask me how I know. Never had this happen with a previous vehicle but I learned the hard way with the '20 500.

So be sure and get her on the road and warm up those brakes before you put her away. Those pizza plate fronts should be pristine and shiny.

<Changing Subjects again>

This one's for D..

I don't recall your workflow regarding whether you rinse before foaming or foam dry? I have always rinsed first but after reading Brian's comment..



I wasn't aware of this fact and I'm planning on giving it a try next time but wanted your thoughts on this specific subject.

Thanks in advance..

KB, my process to prevent the rusty rotors is to roll the car up and down my inclined driveway a couple times while dragging the brakes. No need to go for a drive and dirty up the freshly cleaned car.

I’m also going to look into a rust inhibitor spray for the drying cycle. I never even considered that until watching a Obsessed Garage video where Matt used a spray on his rotors and stated he absolutely hates rusty rotors.

 

[MAGS1]

Depends how dirty the car is. I always foam cannon first, no exceptions. If the car is not very dirty I’ll two bucket method as the foam cannon will take a good amount of the dust and dirt away. If it’s really dirty, single bucket with 4-5 microfiber wash mitts. ALWAYS a separate wheel bucket.

As to the rinse less wash, I use fairly frequently in the winter time. Pump sprayer to spray as much salt and muck off the car as I can. If there’s too much, I won’t take the sponge to it. Not going to risk scratching the paint. When we get an above freezing day, I go to the touchless car wash, spray down the car really good (will use their soap on occasion, it is not ph neutral) then go home and do the rinse less with a sponge in the garage. I live 2 blocks from the touchless car wash so I don’t pick up much of anything on the way home.

 

[luca1290]

I think it sticks better / longer giving it more time to work.

Also, there is the important fact that soaps tend to work best on dry surfaces because before working on the real dirt they interact with the salts in the water and loose part of their cleaning power.

 

[Evolvd]

Depends how dirty the car is. I always foam cannon first, no exceptions. If the car is not very dirty I’ll two bucket method as the foam cannon will take a good amount of the dust and dirt away. If it’s really dirty, single bucket with 4-5 microfiber wash mitts. ALWAYS a separate wheel bucket.

As to the rinse less wash, I use fairly frequently in the winter time. Pump sprayer to spray as much salt and muck off the car as I can. If there’s too much, I won’t take the sponge to it. Not going to risk scratching the paint. When we get an above freezing day, I go to the touchless car wash, spray down the car really good (will use their soap on occasion, it is not ph neutral) then go home and do the rinse less with a sponge in the garage. I live 2 blocks from the touchless car wash so I don’t pick up much of anything on the way home.

This is a very effective way to keep your car clean if you don’t have a garage or a way to wash indoors. Before I bought my house I’d load up all my detailing gear and head to the local DIY car wash and spend an hour or two sitting in the bay, out of the sunlight taking care of business. Costs ya a couple dollars in quarters but it’s worth the effort if you care about your paint.

 

[MAGS1]

This is a very effective way to keep your car clean if you don’t have a garage or a way to wash indoors. Before I bought my house I’d load up all my detailing gear and head to the local DIY car wash and spend an hour or two sitting in the bay, out of the sunlight taking care of business. Costs ya a couple dollars in quarters but it’s worth the effort if you care about your paint.

Yeah I tried to have a floor drain put in my garage when we built our house but our local municipality wouldn’t allow it. How it’s any different than runoff from the driveway into the street is beyond me but their code doesn’t allow for it. Winter is the only time I use the touchless car wash and it’s definitely worth the few bucks each trip to get all the salt off. They have an undercarriage sprayer as well which I also use. That’s one thing I don’t have at home, guess I’ll have to get one for my pressure washer

 

[Evolvd]

That’s one thing I don’t have at home, guess I’ll have to get one for my pressure washer

Aww man! I hate having a reason to buy more detailing toys .

I just got this bad boy in last week to help me out

 

[MAGS1]

Aww man! I hate having a reason to buy more detailing toys .

I just got this bad boy in last week to help me out

LOL! Oh man, a Vyper chair! I’ve got a stool that collapses to a creeper that I use for now but a Vyper is on the list

 

[Evolvd]

LOL! Oh man, a Vyper chair! I’ve got a stool that collapses to a creeper that I use for now but a Vyper is on the list

Yeah I have one of those too and I don’t care for it one bit lol.

 

[Lorne34]

Lorne: I've had the dollies for many years and have just been using the standard five-gallon buckets from your typical "home improvement store."

But, what I learned is...

Do NOT tighten the plastic adjustment knobs too tight or they will put a hole in your new bucket. Wound up throwing my OG buckets away after TWO began to leak. Just tighten them barely enough to keep the bucket in the dolly.

I actually think the OG buckets are thinner than those from the home improvement stores but, I haven't mic'd them to know for sure. IAE, I've put holes in both types of buckets before I learned the error of my ways.



I agree, Lorne, and after many years of two-bucket washes. I even use two for the wheels, one with wheel cleaning solution and one with rinse water for the wheel tools. Of course, I also rinse the tools with the PW after each wheel.

When the wheels are done, I dump and rinse the buckets and then refill them with fresh water and pH neutral soap (CG Snow Foam,) for the body. I also use a 25-degree nozzle for wheels and a 40-degree nozzle for the painted surfaces.

But, I always use an electric PW and foam cannon for both the wheels and paint using the appropriate detergent for each. Car washing is just SO much more efficient and easier with a quality electric machine.



Completely agree again, Lorne for the reason you mentioned. I even rinse after the foam's dwell time without any agitation, and then hand wash the car. I do this because I KNOW the foam releases much of the dust and dirt and by rinsing the vehicle after foaming without any agitation, I automatically reduce the possibility of scratching the paint.

But here's the thing.

I believe that some folks either don't see the spider marring or, think the clear coat is shiny enough and it's the latter group who are not as OCD as some others, many of whom profess that a PW is not required.

Me, I can't NOT see the spiders so I go out of my way to eliminate the possibility of creating them and it is my belief that foaming and then rinsing a car before touching it is the best way to avoid them.

YMMV

thanks for the tip about the set screws. I was wondering about that and figured I would just leave them loose around the bucket. I had a dual bucket carrier previously with fixed openings (both bucket holes were fused into one integrated unit). I had to wiggle the buckets out of the openings because it was so tight. I don't think it even needs the screws, but will use them just in case.

 

[skinnyb]

Yeah I tried to have a floor drain put in my garage when we built our house but our local municipality wouldn’t allow it. How it’s any different than runoff from the driveway into the street is beyond me but their code doesn’t allow for it. Winter is the only time I use the touchless car wash and it’s definitely worth the few bucks each trip to get all the salt off. They have an undercarriage sprayer as well which I also use. That’s one thing I don’t have at home, guess I’ll have to get one for my pressure washer

I love my undercarriage sprayer. It works great. I only use it occasionally.

Sponsored