jpaulson
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2015
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- Location
- Portland, OR
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 GTPP
Couple pics of the Proparts set up.
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Thanks for sharing the pics. What size spacers do you use with your 19x11 wheels? Hoping it's less than what I need with my 11"s so I can work that 11.5" wheel in there.Couple pics of the Proparts set up.
Using 30mm spacers now. I could get away with 25's if I didn't max the camber at the strut bolts.Thanks for sharing the pics. What size spacers do you use with your 19x11 wheels? Hoping it's less than what I need with my 11"s so I can work that 11.5" wheel in there.
Hmm, clearance sounds similar to what I have then. I'm using 25mm spacers but would need somewhere near 35mm to fit the 11.5s. the trouble with that is the outside corner of the tire hits the rear outer edge of the wheel well if swung one way or the front inside fender liner pretty good when turned the other direction.Using 30mm spacers now. I could get away with 25's if I didn't max the camber at the strut bolts.
I am having a hard time seeing where that extra half inch of wheel width is worth the hassle.Hmm, clearance sounds similar to what I have then. I'm using 25mm spacers but would need somewhere near 35mm to fit the 11.5s. the trouble with that is the outside corner of the tire hits the rear outer edge of the wheel well if swung one way or the front inside fender liner pretty good when turned the other direction.
I am thinking if I could use less spacer then the tire would have more room around the rear edge of the wheel well because it would be sucked up closer to the strut.
Or I should just get out the sawzall...
Or 11" up front, 11.5" rear...
305/30-19 Rival S is what I'm looking to mount optimally on a wheel and take the most advantage of for autocross.At some point, another half inch of wheel width becomes the "low hanging fruit". And if 285/35's mounted on 11" wide wheels is your basis (which has been done at an OE regular production level at least for rear fitments), 305/xx and wider just begs for 11.5's. Or wider.
Norm
They are stupid easy to adjust once installed. Don't even have to jack up the car to reach the jack screw.I am installing the MMI weight jackers and 1300# springs at some point (they are on the way, but want to install different LCA bearings to take full advantage). Are they easy to adjust? any ballpark setting/height to maintain some rake? the 6" hyperco springs seems very short.
Thanks, sir. I appreciated the advice.They are stupid easy to adjust once installed. Don't even have to jack up the car to reach the jack screw.
I used these at the end of last season with 1600 lb springs and with a ride height of 14.25 - 14.375" hub to top of wheel well. Front had more gap and rake if measuring each end of the side skirt was 5/8".
This year I am on the DR rear springs and they measure 15" hub to top of wheel well so higher. I set the front to the same 15" distance and rake at the side skirt is like 3/4".
I don't know if there is some magic going on with the DR springs or the geometry is much better at the higher ride height or it's a combination of the two but the car is much better this way. So be sure to try different ride heights and see how it feels to you.
You will probably be fine with the 6" spring in there. There's a lot of adjustment with the jacker and any change there is double at the wheel.
I think people tend to lower these cars too much without considering the geometry effects.They are stupid easy to adjust once installed. Don't even have to jack up the car to reach the jack screw.
I used these at the end of last season with 1600 lb springs and with a ride height of 14.25 - 14.375" hub to top of wheel well. Front had more gap and rake if measuring each end of the side skirt was 5/8".
This year I am on the DR rear springs and they measure 15" hub to top of wheel well so higher. I set the front to the same 15" distance and rake at the side skirt is like 3/4".
I don't know if there is some magic going on with the DR springs or the geometry is much better at the higher ride height or it's a combination of the two but the car is much better this way. So be sure to try different ride heights and see how it feels to you.
You will probably be fine with the 6" spring in there. There's a lot of adjustment with the jacker and any change there is double at the wheel.
Got parts today.They are stupid easy to adjust once installed. Don't even have to jack up the car to reach the jack screw.
I used these at the end of last season with 1600 lb springs and with a ride height of 14.25 - 14.375" hub to top of wheel well. Front had more gap and rake if measuring each end of the side skirt was 5/8".
This year I am on the DR rear springs and they measure 15" hub to top of wheel well so higher. I set the front to the same 15" distance and rake at the side skirt is like 3/4".
I don't know if there is some magic going on with the DR springs or the geometry is much better at the higher ride height or it's a combination of the two but the car is much better this way. So be sure to try different ride heights and see how it feels to you.
You will probably be fine with the 6" spring in there. There's a lot of adjustment with the jacker and any change there is double at the wheel.
Mine were loose on the perches at full droop but still well within the retainers so I never gave it a second thought. I even ran with no sway bar connected, which if it was would further limit the droop of one side if a wheel came off the road.Got parts today.
I also measured height from hub to high point on fender.
F: 14"
R: 14.25"
Yikes.
Should I worry about the springs staying seated at droop?
Seems like a lot of space is there.