Retorqueing IRS

[slimcoyote550]

Hello all,

So after owning my car for over a year, I've tried adjusting the alignment multiple times, and I never get a straight steering wheel.
When I got the car, it was already on lowering springs and 20" wheels.
The car drives straight, but the steering wheel is always off to the left.

My only 2 guesses right now,
When they did the headers, could the steering column not be put back centered correctly?

Or, I read that it's recommended to loosen and retorque the IRS after lowering.

So with this week off work, I just put the car up on ramps, and was wondering if I could get recommendations on which components to loosen and retorque? I was gonna use LMR's torque spec sheet.

Thank you

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[pt's21]

If it's tracking straight, use the steering tie rods to center the steering wheel. Lengthen one rod and shorten the other by exactly the same amount. Keep doing so till wheel is straight.

 

[slimcoyote550]

If it's tracking straight, use the steering tie rods to center the steering wheel. Lengthen one rod and shorten the other by exactly the same amount. Keep doing so till wheel is straight.

I thought about that too, felt like that would just trick the numbers to compensate for the steering wheel, and effect tire wear?

 

[galaxy]

No, that doesn’t “trick” anything. It’s what any alignment shop will do, and it’s the only, and proper way, to center the wheel. If you move both tie rods exactly equal amounts like @pt's21 said, it doesn’t change the alignment at all.

Move the tie rods the direction the wheel is off. You say your wheel is off to the left? You need to move both front wheels to the left. Chace the steering wheel. The LF wheel needs to move outboard some, and the RF needs to move inboard by an equal amount.

 

[slimcoyote550]

No, that doesn’t “trick” anything. It’s what any alignment shop will do, and it’s the only, and proper way, to center the wheel. If you move both tie rods exactly equal amounts like @pt's21 said, it doesn’t change the alignment at all.

Move the tie rods the direction the wheel is off. You say your wheel is off to the left? You need to move both front wheels to the left. Chace the steering wheel. The LF wheel needs to move outboard some, and the RF needs to move inboard by an equal amount.

Sounds good, I'll give it a try. Was difficult trying to retorque the IRS anyways lol.

 

[galaxy]

Oh yeah, so what exactly do you mean by retorquing the IRS? Are you referring to clocking the bushings? That is loosening and retightening all the bushing/rotation points in the suspension. A where a control arm pivots or connects to the frame. None of which btw are influencing your steering wheel, especially the ones in the rear.

 

[slimcoyote550]

Oh yeah, so what exactly do you mean by retorquing the IRS? Are you referring to clocking the bushings? That is loosening and retightening all the bushing/rotation points in the suspension. A where a control arm pivots or connects to the frame. None of which btw are influencing your steering wheel, especially the ones in the rear.

Yeah maybe it's clocking the bushings. I noticed the rear control arms, where the springs sit in, the bushings look like they are tearing. So I was thinking retorqueing it would at least help it, since I got the car how it was. Wasn't sure if I was dog tracking the rear, and that always caused the steering wheel to be off, no matter how many times I get the alignment "within specs". I only managed the vertical links and outer rear toe arm bolt lol. 129lbs on the ground was something for me.

 

[RagmopInKona]

Maybe find a shop that knows how to do an alignment.
This is basic, where ever you taken it has looked at the readings, they in spec and rolled it off.
Any shop worth paying can handle this. if they can't run forest run

 

[slimcoyote550]

Maybe find a shop that knows how to do an alignment.
This is basic, where ever you taken it has looked at the readings, they in spec and rolled it off.
Any shop worth paying can handle this. if they can't run forest run

Lol well I've been the one doing the alignments, at the shop I work at. Always line it up in the green and never had an issue. Only my car has kept the crooked steering wheel, never had to change the toe out of spec to straighten the steering wheel.

 

[RagmopInKona]

Lol well I've been the one doing the alignments, at the shop I work at. Always line it up in the green and never had an issue. Only my car has kept the crooked steering wheel, never had to change the toe out of spec to straighten the steering wheel.

Then you don't know how to do alignments. Sorry, to be blunt, Have someone at the shop show you how to line up the steer wheel straight, then set the wheels into spec.

 

[WD Pro]

I only managed the vertical links and outer rear toe arm bolt lol. 129lbs on the ground was something for me.

You don't need to torque the bushes fully when they are on the ground - you only need to get them tight enough so they don't move, then you can jack / axle stand the car and to torque them fully

These are the bushes that need clocking :

Although the above doesn't suggest the vertical links - but the standard ones rotate and bind if you consider the movement from full droop to full compression ...

WD

 

[kz]

Then you don't know how to do alignments. Sorry, to be blunt, Have someone at the shop show you how to line up the steer wheel straight, then set the wheels into spec.

This exactly. If he's using Hunter rack, the software even tells him to do that....

 

[Bulldog9]

The IRS has NOTHING to do with your wheel being off center. That is as others have said from a JV alignment. My IRS was off and I had the shop correct it (thrust angle or something like that).

Two choices. Either adjust both tie rods to center the wheel (preferred) or pull the wheel and move one knotch on the spline (might be too much or too little)

As for re-clocking the bushings, I planned on doing this when I replaced my struts and springs but found virtually no resistance with full articulation of the front and rear control arms, especially the first 2-3" so with a 1" drop I didn't bother.

 

[WD Pro]

As for re-clocking the bushings, I planned on doing this when I replaced my struts and springs but found virtually no resistance with full articulation of the front and rear control arms, especially the first 2-3" so with a 1" drop I didn't bother.

If you are only lowering 1" and you don't disturb anything then I think you will be OK.

If you undo any of the binding bushes and retighten them at full droop, that's when it becomes apparent.

I clocked the outer toe link bushes which really surprised me

Using the arch to the line in the tyre moulding, I dropped 5mm from the right side :

And 6mm from the left :

WD

I knew they needed doing because :

The toe links were disconnected by Ford during its surgery and I suspected it sat a little high when it came back.

I jacked it up the other week and had a look, the double witness marks on the inside faces from the bush serrations proved it :

Clocking them is dead easy, even without a ramp.

I suspect the camber arms and vertical links are the same and that they are still holding it up a bit, but I have new vertical links to fit after my birthday and the camber arms will get sorted with the alignment

WD

WD

 

[galaxy]

... or pull the wheel and move one knotch on the spline (might be too much or too little)

This is no longer a thing. Steering wheels are not splined. They go on one way.

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