Rebuilding IRS

[GTP]

Not a problem.
<snip>
Hope this helps.

Thanks! Why don't you add a link to this post on your post #1? Sort of a "jump to the design" link.

One more question. If I don't machine off the 0.1" from the front puck thickness, won't the front bolt you chose still be long enough for full threads with the front nut?

If so, then I think there will be enough clearance with a heat-shielded gas tank. Then install/remove the bolt without removing the whole cradle should still work using an open-end or gear wrench on the forward nut. And if it turns out the front bolt is a little too long, I would just grind it shorter as needed.

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[eisenhauer01]

Thanks! Why don't you add a link to this post on your post #1? Sort of a "jump to the design" link.

One more question. If I don't machine off the 0.1" from the front puck thickness, won't the front bolt you chose still be long enough for full threads with the front nut?

If so, then I think there will be enough clearance with a heat-shielded gas tank. Then install/remove the bolt without removing the whole cradle should still work using an open-end or gear wrench on the forward nut. And if it turns out the front bolt is a little too long, I would just grind it shorter as needed.

No prob! I can edit my original post to jump to the final design.
You might be able to get away with NOT machining the puck thickness. Honestly, after measuring everything twice, machining the pucks, going with the 120mm bolts and the 14mm high nuts, the screw/nut was not protruding much from the cradle/puck... but it was still close to my gas tank after aligning everything up perfectly with the steeda alignment dowels. I need to get some pictures so everyone can see the final result. It is close, but there is clearance.
Yes another option would be to go with a 130mm bolt, and the cut/grind it off close to flush after install. The reason why I haven't pushed my idea/design out amongst the croud too hard is because it took some measuring and machining the puck and stuff that might be outside of peoples wheelhouse. I am very happy with my end result, but i can see it not being the easiest thing to figure out and make work for everyone.
I will have to use the open end of a wrench to get to my nut. There is not room to get a box end on them up front just fyi. That was already my line of thinking.

 

[GTP]

It was tricky to get my front Steeda puck/washer/bolt installed up front, and made worse with 2018+ heat shield. But with the clearance to the bolt head, I suspect it would stack up about the same with your method, provided the bolt length is precise. I would rather cut or grind down the bolt length than try to machine a rubber puck.

 

[eisenhauer01]

I get that 100%. I think it would probably go without machining the puck on a 120mm screw. If it were me, I would prob order two of the 130mm long screws as well though, to have them in case you did need the extra length.

 

[GTP]

Judging by one of your photos, it looks like the 120mm length has a few threads protruding with your machined front pucks. Seems like 120 length would be perfect.

Did you choose socket head cap bolts due to the 12.9 requirement?

 

[eisenhauer01]

Yes there are a couple of threads protruding, I wanted to make sure there was full engagement in the nylock portion of the nut. I believe 120mm without machining would have resulted in the threaded screw ending at flush or sub-flush of the nylock nut in my case, which I did not want.
Also yes, in order to go with 12.9 hardware they were socket head cap screws.

 

[eisenhauer01]

I personally wouldn't want less threads protruding with the nylock nut setup.
I didn't want to go with 130mm screws and cut them off either, because of the heat generated when cutting off a bolt and the fact that they are nylock nuts. Maybe I over-thunk it.. but that is just how I did it. I even added a dab of blue loctite just to help insure it was good to go for a long time. A million ways to skin a cat

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