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Resonator delete, tips and tricks...

Broid

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I'm about to do the resonator delete on my 2020 GT350. (With my cousin who actually knows how to work on cars) I've read tons of stuff on this here, but thought I'd start a thread asking you, who have already done it, to post your tips and tricks, the things you learned by doing it, what can you pass on to a resonator delete neophyte about it? Tips? Tricks? Warnings?
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DougS550

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I'm about to do the resonator delete on my 2020 GT350. (With my cousin who actually knows how to work on cars) I've read tons of stuff on this here, but thought I'd start a thread asking you, who have already done it, to post your tips and tricks, the things you learned by doing it, what can you pass on to a resonator delete neophyte about it? Tips? Tricks? Warnings?
To prevent cutting into your under carriage silver heat insulation and damaging other under car stuff.
- I would recommend to mark your exhaust for the cuts as per the directions
2: I would then unclamp the resonator from your forward exhaust, lower/remove exhaust, then make your cuts which will be straight and even. Cutting exhaust on car makes this very hard to do.
Good Luck
 

SchnellGT350

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^ that looks like a pretty cool solution to a jumpy sawzall. Why is this the first I’ve heard of this? Maybe others are more talented with their electric saws than I am!

Actually the fine print says ‘not for use with stainless’ is that an issue?
 

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Whitest Russian

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^ that looks like a pretty cool solution to a jumpy sawzall. Why is this the first I’ve heard of this? Maybe others are more talented with their electric saws than I am!

Actually the fine print says ‘not for use with stainless’ is that an issue?
I'm sure there are models available that can handle stainless.

Also, you can check these out from your local Autozone, O'Reilly's, ect
 

dpAtlanta

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I had posted this in a prior "resonator delete" thread:

I went the simple route. I found a good muffler shop that had done plenty of resonator deletes, and had them cut the resonators out and weld in straight pipes in their place.
Essentially, I now have the "R" exhaust I believe. The factory X-pipe remains in place as you can see:
img_4050-jpg.webp


img_4052-jpg.webp


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img_4056-jpg.webp



The guy charged me $150.00 and his welds looked top notch.
 

CarbonZ

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Measure 3 times put on a face shield, hearing protection, and sawzall away. File up the edges, bolt the new one on.

Those pipe clamp cutter things work but will take you about 30mins and a lot of swearing per cut on stainless. At least that's my past experience.
 

ZX3ST

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^ that looks like a pretty cool solution to a jumpy sawzall. Why is this the first I’ve heard of this? Maybe others are more talented with their electric saws than I am!

Actually the fine print says ‘not for use with stainless’ is that an issue?
This is the exact tool I used to install my Corsa double-helix. Worked great. Nice clean straight cut. I didn't exactly time it, but it for sure was less than 5min per cut. I wasn't in a hurry.

Like cutting any other tube in this fashion, the trick is to not try to cut through all at once. Apply just enough pressure to score the surface and work your way around. Then repeat with a bit more pressure as you go.

It probably wouldn't work on 304 or 316 stainless, but the OEM pipes on this car are 409 and a bit softer. 409 has significantly less chromium and nickel so it doesn't have near the hardness.
 

VoodooIdo

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This is what I used. It is like Vise-Grips so you can adjust tension as you cut. Nice fast cut. I would lend it to you but shipping from Illinois to California is probably not reasonable.

989FE629-F622-48C3-8B7C-023D0C7EE4E0.jpeg
 

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brokenblinker

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I used a sawzall under the car on jackstands and it worked just fine. Used a multi tool to clean up the cuts.
 
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Broid

Broid

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This is what I used. It is like Vise-Grips so you can adjust tension as you cut. Nice fast cut. I would lend it to you but shipping from Illinois to California is probably not reasonable.

989FE629-F622-48C3-8B7C-023D0C7EE4E0.jpeg
True, but if you're in the neighborhood, drop me a line!
 

Tonymustang302

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I used a sawzall under the car on jackstands and it worked just fine. Used a multi tool to clean up the cuts.
same…..took me 30min to install on the 350

the 500….that shit sucked
 

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Measure 3 times put on a face shield, hearing protection, and sawzall away. File up the edges, bolt the new one on.

Those pipe clamp cutter things work but will take you about 30mins and a lot of swearing per cut on stainless. At least that's my past experience.
I had posted this in a prior "resonator delete" thread:

I went the simple route. I found a good muffler shop that had done plenty of resonator deletes, and had them cut the resonators out and weld in straight pipes in their place.
Essentially, I now have the "R" exhaust I believe. The factory X-pipe remains in place as you can see:
img_4050-jpg.jpg


img_4052-jpg.jpg


img_4053-jpg.jpg


img_4054-jpg.jpg


img_4056-jpg.jpg



The guy charged me $150.00 and his welds looked top notch.
 

Morphy

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Hey dpAtlanta, great pictures! I like the way you did your delete. Did the muffler shop open up both ends of the two pipes to slip them over the OEM pipes then weld? Curious why you did not remove the heat shield from the back portion of the OEM pipe to prevent rattling, and/ or reweld the entire heat shield back on the deleted portion? Have you seen any performance issues, loss of HP/torque? How's the tone comparison (before and after)? Any droning at cruising speed? I was going to do my delete using a replacement 3" X pipe but now I might go the route you have taken.
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