Search results

Couple pictures. So the driveshaft yoke is right against the output shaft seal like its too long. Also, the transmission mount bolts are all the way back in the cross member. That does not seem right to me.

Car is a 2016 Mustang GT. Was an MT-82. Stock diff. Magnum xl swap, bmr lowering motor mount brackets. So I’m having an issue with my driveshaft not fitting right. DSS swears it’s perfect to their specs, and it must be something with my car. At the same time I have to pull the transmission back...

Is this sold?

Anybody have the bellhousing dial indicator plate that wants to sell it? (In or near WI would be great too) I’d hate to spend almost $100 for something I’ll probably only ever use once.

Alright, I just installed these BMR MM008H motor mount brackets to lower my engine. Now the bracket holes where they go on the motor mount studs are at the farthest outside point of the hole on both sides. So there is absolutely no ability to move the engine side to side. Anybody else have these...

Happen to have a part number? I would gladly if I could find some. But I was told you have to buy new phasers to get them.

The outside bolts. There’s 6 of them. I got all the arp hardware and had no idea the exhaust phaser ones are left hand thread. I almost stripped them thinking they were tight. Then I decided to turn one the other way and lone behold they turn the opposite way of the intake phaser bolts🤦‍♂️

I called ARP and MMR and nobody makes LH thread bolts for them, before anyone suggests that.

Cleaning my cam phasers and found the exhaust cam phasers to be LH thread. What is everyone doing for those? Reuse them?

My maf is getting relocated to the tube before the throttle body. Race Valve going on the intercooler end tank.

What is everyone using for an oil separator/breather setup with a procharger stage 2? I don't like the UPR CSS kit much anymore as it requires the air inlet, so I'm looking at other options.

Which is surprising to me since two years ago tons of people said not to switch to the gt350 tube, that it was a cleaner reading in the intercooler. Either way, I have the race valve and flange on the way. Its going on the end tank of my intercooler. Thank you all for the replies.

What is everyone’s opinion on the location for prochargers race valve? Is the intercooler mounted location better than the 444 tube mount?

I've already bought an RPG shortblock and a ton of other stuff since posting this. But I agree, I'm not spending that kind of money on an engine. Just needed an engine built for boost with the rings gapped for it.

Looking to do the same thing. In for info. Anyone have info on best rings and gap for boost?

Have people been breaking ringlands with the gen 3 engines? I've only seen the gen 2 guys having this problem.

Mine has been on E85 testing 87% or higher the entire time, still broke again. It has to be just that. Too tight of ring gap.

No, around 4,000 miles on this new engine. Also, You can’t get a gen 2 shortblock anymore. This time even if I go with a stock one. It will be a gen 3. I’m not sure if they are stronger in the piston/ringland department or not. Also, I’m on the fence about selling it now.

Stock engine with about 4,000 miles on it.. procharger stage 2 with the pulley that comes with it 4.5”? 8 rib setup. Lethal dual pump return style on e85. Catless long tubes and catback. Tuned by the best. Didn’t get hot. Didn’t hot lap it. I’m not sure why it happened other than that it’s a...

I plan on getting a new oil pump and pickup tube and all that. But I just didn’t know if anything could get debris into it like the oil cooler or anything I should worry about.