GP70
Well-Known Member
Is there a noticable feel in power with longtubes? In my case I am more concerned with power than sound for the amount of money and labour involved can't justify if it's not noticeable.
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I sure hope so, I'm not doing it just for the sound. The sound is like a bonus. But with negative 0* temperatures outside, it will be a bit before I get to find out. By then the CEL will come on & I'll have to get a tune so it will be hard to tell. But just by looking at them compared to the stock exhaust manifold I assume there has to be a power increase just by the amount of flow being let out. Wish I had a dyno shop near by & I could answer this better for you.Is there a noticable feel in power with longtubes? In my case I am more concerned with power than sound for the amount of money and labour involved can't justify if it's not noticeable.
I sure hope so, I'm not doing it just for the sound. The sound is like a bonus. But with negative 0* temperatures outside, it will be a bit before I get to find out. By then the CEL will come on & I'll have to get a tune so it will be hard to tell. But just by looking at them compared to the stock exhaust manifold I assume there has to be a power increase just by the amount of flow being let out. Wish I had a dyno shop near by & I could answer this better for you.
Yeah I'm looking forward to some decent weather next week so I can let her rip.There's a few Threads on hp, I'm trying to get a cross section of improvements and hp gain. All hp listed are rewhip obviously. If I had to guess Kooks adds approx 35hp (maybe little more) plus 40lbs or so lighter. You can tell.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/up-dated-mach-1-dyno-sheets-no-forced-induction.183072/
Now focus on, putting your GT on a diet. Here's a trick Mod that moves the weight to the right place. Plus the Rotors -22lbs.Yeah I'm looking forward to some decent weather next week so I can let her rip.
What rotors you change to? I plan on dropping the drive shaft rotational weight next as well as what ever other weight savings I can find.Now focus on, putting your GT on a diet. Here's a trick Mod that moves the weight to the right place. Plus the Rotors -22lbs.
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What rotors you change to? I plan on dropping the drive shaft rotational weight next as well as what ever other weight savings I can find.
Nice! Thanks for the link.I went with these guys because they were the OEM on my Boss302R. (Different size of course)
https://girodisc.com/ford-s550-mustang-gt-brembo-front-rotors/
My next Mod is drive train as well. Drive shaft and light weight flywheel. Seats and a few more, geez never ending.
I would say 35hp is pretty far off the real #. I have 1 7/8 Kooks. I built up my 2020 GT A10 and now in progress on my 2022.There's a few Threads on hp, I'm trying to get a cross section of improvements and hp gain. All hp listed are rewhip obviously. If I had to guess Kooks adds approx 35hp (maybe little more) plus 40lbs or so lighter. You can tell.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/up-dated-mach-1-dyno-sheets-no-forced-induction.183072/
Sometimes finding (aka not losing) HP is easier than making it. For instance, switching from a two piece heavy drive shaft to a lighter one piece drive shaft reduces power train loss. I have Kooks 1 7/8 LTHs, green cats, performance connect with a Borla Atak, with a JLT 120mm intake CAI and a badass tuner. I am making ~460 RWHP (average between 8 dyno runs); if you subscribe to an A10 eating 20% HP, that would be roughly ~575 fly wheel HP.I would say 35hp is pretty of the real #. I have 1 7/8 Kooks. I built up my 2020 GT A10 and now in progress on my 2022.
Baseline dyno (all dynojet SAE) with just Borla S-type cat back was 428hp/395tq
Final build w/ E85 and max timing/cam tuning, Kooks/cats, ported intake/TB, Steeda closed box air box lid without restrictor.
That's about 45hp from all that. I think E85/timing/tuning + both intakes are at least 25-30.
That would say long tubes with cats is more like 20hp. Maybe there's 5-10hp in catless on top.
I have all but ported intake back on my 2022 now. Dyno results were about 5hp light to my full build. I didn't have a baseline on that one. (also A10 car)
it's worth it to me, but they're not 35hp plus. I'd say 30hp max from stock if LT and no cats.
I forgot to mention my end result was with qa1 carbon driveshaft, lighter Baer rotors, lighter wheels. 20% is high. inferring from factory rating, the Hot Rod:car craft engine dyno tests, i've come up with 13% lossSometimes finding (aka not losing) HP is easier than making it. For instance, switching from a two piece heavy drive shaft to a lighter one piece drive shaft reduces power train loss. I have Kooks 1 7/8 LTHs, green cats, performance connect with a Borla Atak, with a JLT 120mm intake CAI and a badass tuner. I am making ~460 RWHP (average between 8 dyno runs); if you subscribe to an A10 eating 20% HP, that would be roughly ~575 fly wheel HP.
I forgot to mention my end result was with qa1 carbon driveshaft, lighter Baer rotors, lighter wheels. 20% is high. inferring from factory rating, the Hot Rod:car craft engine dyno tests, i've come up with 13% loss
Cats or not cats ? Factory resonator still in place ?Right I’m talking calculated hp at the flywheel vs the 480hp rating:
So I’m sitting at 465.9hp on the Dyno on a very hot 86deg day test. Kooks and 100octTune that’s it. Take your 13%loss that’s
535hp vs 480hp rating = 55hp gained
40hp from the Kooks
15hp from the tune
Colder day would add 20hp
Hahaha so whatever but for sure it will help!
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/up-dated-mach-1-dyno-sheets-no-forced-induction.183072/
Both gone...3" Kooks all the wayCats or not cats ? Factory resonator still in place ?
That seems about right but more like 40 flywheel * .87 = 35 rwhp for Headers + cat delete + cat back.Both gone...3" Kooks all the way